Help Please: Slow Battery Drain

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Joined
Jul 9, 2009
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22
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After sitting for a week my battery has drained (it is a brand new battery bought it this month). I am trying to figure out what could be the problem. My headlights where off, the dorm light was set to "door" but I don't think that would be the problem. The only other thing I could think of is the after market radio, I took off the face plate but could it be draining the battery still? Thank you for your advice.
 
I had a similar problem that I tracked down to the CB, I fitted a connector block and leave it unplugged now unless I'm using it. Your radio could maybe be pulling a slight current.
 
Most radios have an always on portion that keeps the clock and station settings. It shouldn't drain a fully charged battery in a week however. Was the battery fully charged? If so, then you have other drains on the battery. If you have a Multi Meter, put it in amps mode and observe the drain on the battery. Begin to unplug circuits until you find the excess drain. It might take awhile to figure it out.
 
Even though it's new, I would test the battery... I've had a 'bad' brand new diehard int. in the past, Sears swapped it no questions.

I guess the question is did this behavior exist prior to the new battery or is the symptom new with the addition of the new battery?
 
It did the same thing before the new battery. It sat for 10 days and the battery drained so I went out and bought a new one.
 
Put a volt meter between the negative battery cable end and the Negative battery terminal (of course with the neg disconnected) If the meter ( 20 volt scale) swings / shows the wrong way or - volts , swap the meter leads.

Next if the meter reads 12 volts , you have a drain , pull fuses till the reading is 0 volts , that should be an almost MT fuse box.

Radios that have memory of stations and clock draw 1. voth to max1.8 V..

If all is still 12 volt with fuse box MT , the main wires from the Alt would be the last to pull. If you find that the Alt is the Bleed out. You have a leaking Diode.

HTH's VT
 
If you want to find which fuse circuit is bad, try this.
1. Disconnect the battery positive lead.
2. Connect the digital multimeter between the battery positive lead and the battery positive terminal.
3. Select the multimeter to the ammeter function and turn the meter ON.
4. Check the multimeter reading less than 65 mA (.065 A). That's your discharge rate.
5. If the discharge rate is greater than 65 mA, start removing and then reinstalling fuses one at a time. When you remove each fuse, write down how much the discharge rate of the battery decreases.
6. After that, try removing and installing relays one at a time and write down how much the discharge rate drops for each relay.
7. Once you've completed this, identify all of the locations where you saw a significant decrease discharge rate. Using the factory wiring diagrams if necessary, determine all components supplied by those fuse/relay locations. Disconnect components from those circuits one at a time until you identify which one is the cause of the high current draw (as indicated by the ammeter).
 
Also had similar problem on my FJ62 - mine turned out to be an aftermaket alarm. Which I have since completely removed.
 
if you are not a electical guro take your rig to autocrap and they have a DC amp probe. they can clip-on slide it up and down the wire and pin point the location within reason..........at least under the hood.

My experience its usually around the battery,fusable link or a aftermarket item thats the cause.
 
Gent's

I kinda knew that if your asking , Your not in the Trade , having a job in this trade of repairing for a living.

Hence why i picked the VOLTMETER , Negative is the rule of THUMB in any Negative earth / ground unit.

Having a DMV in Amp mode and if the digital multi meter has not got protection of draw maximum amp fuse's ,, that will kill a tool right now , ..

USING IT IN VOLT MODE IS THE SAME, but no real smoke factor..[Killing a meter] (If you disagree , please read the power circle , same as Ohm's law but Includes Watts / power)

VT
Magic Circle eirp.webp
 
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while you are right that the common household voltmeter cannot handle over 10 amps . The one I recommened can handle it just fine............and somebody else does it for free:meh:
 
Thank for all of the help, this forum is a life Land-Cruiser saver.
 
This website is very difficult. Not very user friendly. Also has tons of problems but not very much solutions. If anybody has an answer or where to look I have a draw coming from the clock radio. I have replaced my positive battery terminal connector and it still draws. Battery is new. Took the fuse out now I don’t have a radio or clock.
Thanks
Brooks
 
You should be drawing a few milliamps for the clock, but not more than that.
 
Difficult? Not user friendly? Then go build your own website! Why don't you join Pirate 4x4 they will give you the answer you need and then some.
Before i forget Welcome to Mud! Here is your Welcome salute, for real. :flipoff2::flipoff2::flipoff2::flipoff2::flipoff2:
BTW replace the negative cable while your at it and all the fuses. :rolleyes: @Thealohacruiser
 
This website is very difficult. Not very user friendly. Also has tons of problems but not very much solutions. If anybody has an answer or where to look I have a draw coming from the clock radio. I have replaced my positive battery terminal connector and it still draws. Battery is new. Took the fuse out now I don’t have a radio or clock.
Thanks
Brooks

I'll skip past your first three sentences. You can rant on the chit chat forum...be specific about what you don't like about the website and if you can word it in a friendly way...I'm sure some will give you help or concur or give you some other perspective.

You've narrowed your draw to the clock/radio circuit. Congrats! You know this because you pulled that fuse and the draw went away? Why do you think replacing your positive battery terminal connector is going to help with the draw?

If you took out the radio fuse, of course your radio and clock won't work. Or are you saying you pulled the fuse AND REPLACED IT and the radio and clock are out?

Seems like the next logical place to check would be to remove the radio, unplug it, look for burned wires/plug connections, probe the positive wire coming from the fuse box to the back of the radio with a 12v tester connected to ground under the dash and see if you have 12v.
 
You could put your radio circuit on a relay that isolates the radio circuit completely when the key is turned off.
 

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