HELP PLEASE! I'm stuck in the wilderness with a dead fxj80

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bryanb said:
Can anyone confirm whether or not these have a crash sensor that can shut down fuel and or spark if the truck experiences a crash or hard hit?
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NO. There is no crash shut off. You did not hit that hart if air bags did not deploy, anyway. John
 
Fusible links (each of them) should be nominally 0 ohms (they are just wires - that can melt).

I would verify that all 3 are intact.


So, at this point you have verified fuel pumps but you have no spark while cranking? Where did check (spark lead, coil lead) ?

If you depressurized the fuel rail, it can take 15 - 20 seconds of solid cranking to get it pumped back up.

cheers,
george.
 
TrickyT said:
The only things close to Panament Valley are the ghost town of Ballart (population: 2 old miners) and Panamint Springs (population: 5 or so).
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Hahahaha what I meant is if there are any mudder with good trouble shooting experience live "near by" to help out. Doubt there are any mudders live with in 50 mile radius.
 
mryanangel said:
There is a rollover sensor under the center gear shifter console, but I doubt that is your problem.
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There is? I've never seen one and there is no mention in the parts catalog.
 
george_tlc said:
Fusible links (each of them) should be nominally 0 ohms (they are just wires - that can melt).

I would verify that all 3 are intact.


So, at this point you have verified fuel pumps but you have no spark while cranking? Where did check (spark lead, coil lead) ?

If you depressurized the fuel rail, it can take 15 - 20 seconds of solid cranking to get it pumped back up.

cheers,
george.
Click to expand...
We checked spark by pulling the feed wire from the coil. We then reconnected it and tried sticking a screwdriver into one of the connections in the cap to see if we could arc it. Nothing.

I'm leaning towards the coil
 
bryanb said:
We checked spark by pulling the feed wire from the coil. We then reconnected it and tried sticking a screwdriver into one of the connections in the cap to see if we could arc it. Nothing.

I'm leaning towards the coil
Click to expand...


Try pulling number 1 plug and put it against the engine and crank. Most reliable way to check for sparks.
 
Let's not forget this gem from Real time help


TrickyT said:
I looked over the 1997 EWD FSM and many if not all of the symptoms described by beno (post #34) and others can be explained due to a intermittent connection between the two white wires running to terminal "B" on the alternator. Look at page 52 - Power Source - in the EWD manual. +12v runs from the main fusible link on the battery through a couple of splice junctions to the alternator, then from the alternator through another connector to several fuses on the fuse block in the passenger compartment. If there was a bad connection between the two wires at the lug on the alternator, power might not be reliably reaching the fuse block. This would affect the ECU, headlights (because there's no power to the headlight auto off "retainer" circuit), shift lock (because there's no power to the stop light switch), and dash illumination (because there's no power to the tail light relay). This theory is easy to test. Next time the headlights (and, by association, engine) fail, move the headlight switch to the "flash" position (pull the lever towards you). This bypasses the headlight retainer relay. If the headlights light up, then power is reaching the headlight relay but not the rest of the circuits "downstream" of that, which includes that part of the fuse block powered by the "main" fusible link. If this is the case, then there has to be a break between splice E7 in the engine compartment and the fuse block, and the most likely candidate is the inherent splice on the terminal lug at the alternator.
Click to expand...
 
Qball said:
Try pulling number 1 plug and put it against the engine and crank. Most reliable way to check for sparks.
Click to expand...

^^^^ This. And you can measure the resistance of the coil with your multimeter as a first approximation to whether it's good or not. There's also an ignitor that drives the coil, which is difficult to test.

From your current location, you certainly don't want to be sending out for replacement parts unless you know for certain what's bad.
 
1st Verify you really don't have spark (as above), with a spark plug lead/spark plug.

Spark requires the coil to operate (I really doubt it has failed). The coil fires due to the igniter (that modules is near just in front of the ABS stuff). Check its connector is well seated. The igniter gets ground through the bolt it is attached to - that is its only ground and of course is critical to providing the ground path for the igniter to operate. The igniter gets a signal from the ECU, but only if the ECU also gets signals from the pickup coils in the distributor.

To prove/test the coil you could always momentarily connect the coil 'input' to +12V (pulse on/off) and it should create a spark. I highly doubt the coil has failed. After all this problem occurred due to a large 'bounce' that has shorted/jostled something...

cheers,
george.
 
Bryan, I presume you have food/water/shelter to deal with potentially being stuck there a day or two?? This would be a growing concern for us...

cheers,
george.
 
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