Help needed: Not starting + Check VSC System (1 Viewer)

[ATwoZ]

Hi,

I could use some help with troubleshooting- my 2010 LX wouldn't start the other day (and hasn't since). Electronics work and I've got a cuckoo clocks worth of lights and alarms (see image). I've googled online, but not getting real far... Things I've done/checked:

Battery
- Charged battery with Noco charger
- Disconnected and reconnected battery
- Attempted to jump battery
- Took battery to be tested (all good and healthy)
(Voltage of 12.69 and 739cca, which sounded like it should be good enough to start)- note I have no other electrical systems, no fridges or crazy lights etc

Codes
- Used Bluetooth obdii and torque app to pull codes - no active codes

Other
- Tried removing gas cap and reattaching

Most other discussions seem to center around actual codes or the errors occurring with the car running...mine won't even start.

What should I test/attempt to diagnose next? If there's an existing guide on this issue that I missed please let me know.

Thanks!

 

[eatSleepWoof]

Perhaps your fob's battery is low or dead? Try holding it right overtop of the start button when you start it up.

 

[TeCKis300]

What's the symptoms of the no start? Does the starter engage and crank? No starter? Faint click?

Classic issue for the 5.7L above ~100k miles (I see you're at 114k) is the starter relay/solenoid fails. It can fail without warning. Symptoms of that is no cranking. If you leave the door open, you'll be able to hear a faint whirring as the starter plunger attempts to engage the starter relay contacts.

 

[ATwoZ]

Ugh, that sounds like it might be it, no real cranking, sounds a bit whirring for several seconds then nothing.

How difficult is replacing that?

Edit: sorry for the dumb questions, but the starter relay and the solenoid are different parts?

 

[ATwoZ]

So I dug out techstream and there are a few errors, but my guess would be they're all related to the system not starting?
P0335- Crankshaft position sensor
C1201- Engine Control System Malfunction
B1421 - Solar sensor circuit (p)
B1424 - Solar Sensor circuit (d)
B1861 - Open in knee airbag (d) squib circuit
B2412 - Headlight swivel motor LH

I found the starter relay, it has some black markings on the base near the contacts. I tested across the pins with a multimeter and that looked ok, but not positive. Ordering a replacement just in case (getting one from advance Auto parts as to dealer didn't stock it- should 3rd party be ok?)

I tried hot wiring by pulling the relay and connecting a wire across the contacts- still nothing, so may not be relay...what else can I test? Having difficulty finding applicable info for starter solenoid etc.

@TeCKis300 there's a very definitive 'click' and then the whiring sound. There's no cranking occurring.

 

[TeCKis300]

It's not that relay. It's the high amperage starter relay that's piggybacked onto the starter. Which the little relay you're looking at likely drives. Bottom object.

From your symptoms, it sounds like the classic starter issue. There's a ton of threads on this, but here's one - Another starter thread

From P0335 CEL, it likely still points to the starter as the ECU assumes there should be cranking upon starting, but the crank angle sensor reports no turning over. C1201 is not really indicative of anything and is set because P0335 is set.

The other CELs are I believe unrelated.

 

[ATwoZ]

Thank you! So is the common issue the whole starter failing or just the solenoid. Not quite clear from the threads you linked.

Am I better off replacing everything, or is it only the solenoid that tends to fail and needs to be replaced?

 

[bloc]

Just the solenoid. Brushes and starter components otherwise seem to last a very long time, when the solenoid/contactor goes out it is a sudden *nothing* other than the click.

It is possible to bypass the solenoid with a very long screwdriver, some jumper cables and electrical tape. Oh and another person. Pretty involved though.

 

[ATwoZ]

Awesome, confirming, is this the part? 28150-38040 - Genuine Lexus SWITCH ASSY, MAIN

Edit: Nevermind, looked closer at the links and see it's the same part... Now to figure out installing!

 

[TeCKis300]

You got it. Because of the labor involved, most people change out set of starter motor and solenoid/relay. It's a 5-8 hr job depending on how mechanically inclined you are. And there's some black magic in maneuvering the assembly out without taking too many things apart i.e. manifold/exhaust.

The new starter motor is more compact so getting it in is easier if you opt to change both.

 

[gaijin]

You got it. Because of the labor involved, most people change out set of starter motor and solenoid/relay. It's a 5-8 hr job depending on how mechanically inclined you are. And there's some black magic in maneuvering the assembly out without taking too many things apart i.e. manifold/exhaust.

The new starter motor is more compact so getting it in is easier if you opt to change both.

Just for the visual learners among us...

Old and new starters:

HTH

Edit to add: New Part Number is 28100-0S050

Dealer pics:

Dealer sales page: New style starter @ Olathe

 

[ATwoZ]

Thank you all! I'm cancelling the order for the solenoid and just going to do the whole assembly... Haven't decided yet if I'm going to attempt on my own.... Not like I'm leaving the house anytime soon

 

[RET2]

Thank you all! I'm cancelling the order for the solenoid and just going to do the whole assembly... Haven't decided yet if I'm going to attempt on my own.... Not like I'm leaving the house anytime soon

You could always keep the old one and tinker around with the solenoid repair?

 

[ATwoZ]

You could always keep the old one and tinker around with the solenoid repair?

Happy to donate if anyone is interested, but have other projects to get after

 

[RET2]

Happy to donate if anyone is interested, but have other projects to get after

If you don't mind hanging onto it till LCDC I can pick it up?

 

[ATwoZ]

If you don't mind hanging onto it till LCDC I can pick it up?

You bet

 

[RET2]

Thank you Sir

 

[ATwoZ]

Wanted to provide some updates and some additional questions....

I have the starter replaced, will say that this very quickly put my ego in check for mechanical work I'm capable of. Luckily a mechanic friend was in town and able to help, otherwise it was probably getting towed to a local shop instead. Even with his help it still took us 6+ hours (and myself 12-14+)...so leaving that as a warning for anyone that has not done as much mechanical work that there is a lot to make this a pain.

I generally followed Tundra Starter Replacement but a few things we ended up doing to get the starter out...we took a 'ship in the bottle' approach and partly disassembled the starter while still in the area so we could get it out.

Getting it in, we ended up removing the coolant reservoir (not sure on correct term, but circular piece that hoses were attached to) to get the starter back in. We also removed the exhaust stabilizing bracket, but did not remove the exhaust itself, nor did we remove any engine bolts.

The couple questions I have are, that in the process one of the heatshield bolts got lost, I believe it's a standard #6x1, but was hoping someone could confirm part number "90119-A0285"?

Also, the 'clips' broke on the fender liners while getting those removed inside the wheel well, and I haven't been able to track down the right ones to replace them- doesn't anyone know which the correct ones are? The looked a bit like a hollow 'top hat' and more of a 'barrel' style, not the 'center pin' type. Hope that makes sense.

Thanks everyone for all the help, I've got some more stuff to track down- will need to re-check codes etc.

Also, in the process I found the passenger window too be going up very slowly...I'll create another thread on that fun one.

Thanks again for all the help!

 

[bloc]

Wanted to provide some updates and some additional questions....

I have the starter replaced, will say that this very quickly put my ego in check for mechanical work I'm capable of. Luckily a mechanic friend was in town and able to help, otherwise it was probably getting towed to a local shop instead. Even with his help it still took us 6+ hours (and myself 12-14+)...so leaving that as a warning for anyone that has not done as much mechanical work that there is a lot to make this a pain.

I generally followed Tundra Starter Replacement but a few things we ended up doing to get the starter out...we took a 'ship in the bottle' approach and partly disassembled the starter while still in the area so we could get it out.

Getting it in, we ended up removing the coolant reservoir (not sure on correct term, but circular piece that hoses were attached to) to get the starter back in. We also removed the exhaust stabilizing bracket, but did not remove the exhaust itself, nor did we remove any engine bolts.

The couple questions I have are, that in the process one of the heatshield bolts got lost, I believe it's a standard #6x1, but was hoping someone could confirm part number "90119-A0285"?

Also, the 'clips' broke on the fender liners while getting those removed inside the wheel well, and I haven't been able to track down the right ones to replace them- doesn't anyone know which the correct ones are? The looked a bit like a hollow 'top hat' and more of a 'barrel' style, not the 'center pin' type. Hope that makes sense.

Thanks everyone for all the help, I've got some more stuff to track down- will need to re-check codes etc.

Also, in the process I found the passenger window too be going up very slowly...I'll create another thread on that fun one.

Thanks again for all the help!

Post pictures of what you need and it’ll be a lot easier to dig into the parts diagrams for the correct stuff.

 

[ATwoZ]

Post pictures of what you need and it’ll be a lot easier to dig into the parts diagrams for the correct stuff.

Here's the clip, head was snapped off. I'm pretty confident on the bolt, just making sure I'm looking at right one to attach heat shield