Help: Inconsistent Starting '07 LX (2 Viewers)

xirforever · Tuesday at 12:21 PM

Hello everyone! I have been having an inconsistent starting issue that I can't put off fixing any longer. I have read a lot on here about similar starting issues, but it seems like most of those threads never posted what solution fixed their problems. All I see are things that didn't fix their problem. If there is a thread, I apologize in advance. Please direct me and I will promptly insert foot into mouth and delete this thread.

My starting issues started 3 years ago, usually in the winter time. This lead me to believe perhaps it is my starter. Even still I am confused because sometimes it turns over but won't stay running. And now it is happening in June.

Here are the starting conditions I have experienced:
1. Loud, single, click from engine bay. Sounds like the starter engaged, but just won't turn the engine at all.
2. Engine will turn over with ease with no ignition. It will continue to turn over for as long as I hold the key with no ignition.
3. Engine will start with ease, then as the RPM comes down to idle, it dies. (all very quickly)
4. Engine will start without any problems at all.

Things I have done:
1. Replaced the starter relay (OEM)
2. Replaced the battery
3. Inspected and cleaned all battery terminals, including ground.
4. Verified the check engine light is on and the security light is not blinking (not immobilizer a problem)

If it were the starter, then why would the engine start then die? I am really, REALLY, confused here. If it were a fuel issue, why would it not attempt to start at all other times? I have been putting so much work into this car lately, and I think I'm going to cry if I have to go on a wild goose chase replacing things that aren't the problem. Fuel pump, regulator, starter, etc. If anyone has any experience to share to help me wisely choose where to spend some time trying to fix this, I would GREATYLY appreciate it. Seriously.

Once I solve this problem, I promise to post the solution for everyone to finally benefit from.

I have uploaded a video to youtube that demonstrates conditions 1, 3, & 4.

Import Driver · Tuesday at 12:50 PM

Intermittent crank no start, intermittent dead battery (SOLVED)

For the past year or so my '06 LX would randomly discharge the battery. I had the battery checked multiple times and it always tested good. Sometimes it did it after sitting for a few days, sometimes had only sat a day or two. Fast forward to late fall and I had a crank, no start while on...

forum.ih8mud.com

Some similarities but quite a few differences. For example, your condition number one should rule out the main relay. But I think I thought I would share anyway.

Kind of sounds like a loose ground somewhere.

xirforever · Tuesday at 5:19 PM

To test the grounding just now, I took my jumper cables and took the clips on one end and connected both to the negative terminal of the battery, and then connected both clips on the other end to two different exposed bolts on the engine. I then tried to start it and I got the same "click" I have been getting.

I also connected it to different parts of the body, same results.

It looks like grounding as an issue can be crossed off for now. Any other suggestions?

xirforever · 2025-06-05T17:15:09-0600

I decided to go ahead and just pull the starter. Getting the intake isn't that bad, but holy cow the starter itself is a massive PITA. Not to mention the pictures i see online of other people's engines with the intake off it looks more simple than mine; I have more components butted right up hard against the back of the starter. Its insane Toyota designed it like this, I just have to keep taking more and more and more off the engine to replace one relatively simple part. I do have a tip for others doing this though, get yourself a "tite-reach" extension wrench, it makes accessing the starter fasteners much more simple.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B004UBHRWO?ref_=ppx_hzsearch_conn_dt_b_fed_asin_title_3

3_puppies · 2025-06-06T03:51:11-0600

you should plug all the intake holes so nothing gets down inside them

excessive · 2025-06-06T07:55:03-0600

My guess from your symptoms is the starter, but you'll know for sure soon . replace your knock sensor connectors while you're in there
TOYOTA PART NO 90980-11166

2001LC · 2025-06-06T10:03:33-0600

Always a good idea to list mileage, vehicle condition (Under-maintain rust bucket, garage king super clean or something in between) and all aftermarket toys add on installed.

Additionally: It worth noting if engine hot, warm or cold during events?

Alway look to, any work or toys added, before issue(s) began. For clues, as possible cause to current issue! Making mention of same here, is good idea also.
________________________________

Sound like, you've more than one issue. First, may very well be starter! "click no crank". This can go on for years. But will get worse, with time (starts).

Seems you've ruled out, battery or battery cable issues. But we also want to make sure battery acid hasn't creep into fusible link ( black box, hanging off battery positive post) and wire block connected to bottom of it. This happens if battery not carried for with regular cleaning with baking soda to neutralize acid.

xirforever said:
Hello everyone! I have been having an inconsistent starting issue that I can't put off fixing any longer. I have read a lot on here about similar starting issues, but it seems like most of those threads never posted what solution fixed their problems. All I see are things that didn't fix their problem. If there is a thread, I apologize in advance. Please direct me and I will promptly insert foot into mouth and delete this thread.

My starting issues started 3 years ago, usually in the winter time. This lead me to believe perhaps it is my starter. Even still I am confused because sometimes it turns over but won't stay running. And now it is happening in June.

Here are the starting conditions I have experienced:
1. Loud, single, click from engine bay. Sounds like the starter engaged, but just won't turn the engine at all.

With bad starter contacts, we don't often hear a "loud click".

But with bad bendix drive (gears of starter), we often do hear loud click. These bad bendix drive, do tend last many years before failing totally.

A further clue would be mileage. I see, starter contacts go bad, typically around 250K. When use as a DD on comb of City & HWY. If an egine that start very fast on every crank, may go 500K miles.

The fact you hear a click, would indicate IG SW okay and signal getting to fuse box.

xirforever said:
2. Engine will turn over with ease with no ignition. It will continue to turn over for as long as I hold the key with no ignition.

It can be spark, more often fuel is related. This is very often, a no/low fuel flow/pressure issue. Which fuel pump only engages, when engine cranking (crank shaft spinning). Which the crank position sensor (CPS) is responsible for telling ECU, to send power (12Volts) to fuel pump. So this can be a bad fuel pump or any part of the circuit to fuel pump. Even bad gas clogging fuel pump sock and or fuel filter. Watch fuel trims can yield clues here.

There is also a issue with hot start I've not seen. A TSB (see pdf attached), dealing with cam sensors. But you should see P0335 and or P1340.

Note: I hear some voice announcing "GPS", in your video! So you've some aftermarket device wired in. Any wiring alteration "throw a monkey wrench" in the works. I just had and issue took me 10 hours to find. It was due to aftermarket device wired in, 10 years earlier. Just happen to short now after 10 years.

Also it best to turn key to ON, a wait for selftest to complete (a dash lights come on, than most warn alerts go out). Also, turn off all accessearies before shut down. They all compete for battery, with IG key set to ON.

xirforever said:
3. Engine will start with ease, then as the RPM comes down to idle, it dies. (all very quickly)

Was the engine Cold, Warm or Hot and what was OAT? This info may yield clues.

These again indicate a fuel or spark issue. Fuel mixture to lean, would point to fuel pressure.

I'd also look at wire to CPS & oil sending unit. If routed wrong (in front of fan bracket), they may rub on fan belt and be cut. If only partially cut, may be intermittent short.

Wires routed wrong is common issue, after timing belt or fan bracket service. I'll be fixing this one to day, as soon as off the forum.

xirforever said:
4. Engine will start without any problems at all.

Things I have done:
1. Replaced the starter relay (OEM)
2. Replaced the battery
3. Inspected and cleaned all battery terminals, including ground.
4. Verified the check engine light is on and the security light is not blinking (not immobilizer a problem)

If it were the starter, then why would the engine start then die? I am really, REALLY, confused here. If it were a fuel issue, why would it not attempt to start at all other times? I have been putting so much work into this car lately, and I think I'm going to cry if I have to go on a wild goose chase replacing things that aren't the problem. Fuel pump, regulator, starter, etc. If anyone has any experience to share to help me wisely choose where to spend some time trying to fix this, I would GREATYLY appreciate it. Seriously.

Once I solve this problem, I promise to post the solution for everyone to finally benefit from.

I have uploaded a video to youtube that demonstrates conditions 1, 3, & 4.

Tips for VVT starter job:

First as always, clean top of engine first. last vacuum out the rag from intake ports and vacuum ever spec of dust from intake ports/valves also.
Replace all gaskets that are removed. i.e. intake manifold gaskets. In the VVT they're rubber, and shrink with time. We then get oil seeping past them, as I see you have.
Use a torque wrench.
Just cut the long hose going from SAI main switching valve, that goes back to rear water bypass. Replace with new.
Unclip the wires housing blocks,from SAI pump and SW. Replace any, that the locking clip breaks off from.
Remove the two nut and two bolts, securing the SAI mounting plate to block. I use my 3/8" drive extension and 12mm socket. Which my extension will not fit pass the front water bypass on BK2 side, with socket on the extension to get at that nut. So I use forceps, to place 12mm socket on nut first, than extension on 12mm socket.

The start wire housing block (below) locking clip, breaks almost always. Replace if it does. Note, all wirehousing have suffix of part number on them. All have the 90980- as prefix

While in there! Good time to do my SAI replaceable filter MOD.

S.A.I. Filter Modification, in VVT engines. To prevent its failure! Alert Alert!

We've a $2.00 part in the S.A.I. (secondary air injection) system of the VVT engine, that is taking-out ~$7,000.00 $15,000 $25,000 (inflation) in parts. WOW! I've a very easy and cheap WORK AROUND. You are going to love this ;) This thread is dedicated to the 4.7L 2UZ-fe VVT engine, in the...

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BTW:
I reset contacts plates, of all remanufactured starters. Why: If rebuilder, did get contact seat properly/flush, you starters contacts may prematurely fail.
Note: There is a small ball bearing in bottom of hole, plunger goes in. Don't lose it. Ball bearing is not (seen) in the plungers hole, in below picture.