2000 LX 470 very intermittent starting issue

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I second the starter. I had an issue like this and another where it would just click once with each key turn. New starter and relay resolved the issue. Id recommend picking up a new starter and a new relay for peace of mind. This should fix your issue. Repair is exaggerated in its complexity. Starter removal is very easy and relatively satisfying to do. Nothing is hard
 
I second the starter. I had an issue like this and another where it would just click once with each key turn. New starter and relay resolved the issue. Id recommend picking up a new starter and a new relay for peace of mind. This should fix your issue. Repair is exaggerated in its complexity. Starter removal is very easy and relatively satisfying to do. Nothing is hard
I agree with it being exaggerated. I rebuilt the upper portion of a 351W last year and the job is pretty similar. I am knocking on wood as I type this....I haven't had an issue since June 15th. I have taken it off road camping twice and I am driving it about 3 days a week.
 
I jinxed myself. Got in the car today. Turned the key and nothing. The security light was not blinking either. Cycled the key again and it started right up. There was no clicking from the starter or anything sounds on the first key turn.

81 degrees out
5:00 pm
All the lights had been turned off
Door were unlocked
Last drove the day before and parked at 6:45pm
 
I mean kinda obvious but have you checked your battery terminals and connections? Could be that simple.

Could also be a short on the wires going to the starter. A short to ground would cause this. Perhaps its even before the relay which is why you hear no relay actuation.
 
I have chased electric gremlins in my cars before. Thankfully, never really had to do that with the LX much. So these are just random things to look out for (not related to the platform specifically).
- What is on your keychain? any magnets, any other door key chips. e.g a gym key that you touch on a scanner to unlock the door etc.
- Look for anything done to the wiring, anything out of place. Any splices, maybe some previous work (before you bought the car) that was done for whatever reason. Especially soldering, never ages well for joining wires. You might have to pull some of the interior panels to inspect the wiring that goes to the key switch and trace it back.
- Have you tried using a different master key? Also open the key fob see what it's looking like. I have one Ebay master key and it's remote is separate from the small rice grain sized chip that servers as the ID for the key. If its moving around in there it might cause weird issues.
 
I mean kinda obvious but have you checked your battery terminals and connections? Could be that simple.

Could also be a short on the wires going to the starter. A short to ground would cause this. Perhaps its even before the relay which is why you hear no relay actuation.
There is actually a small crack on my Block assembly fuse link. 100 Series OEM Fusible link assembly kit (1998-2002) - https://www.cruiserpatch.com/products/98-02-100-series-oem-fusible-link-assembly?_pos=2&_sid=d4baebf6b&_ss=r

have been considering replacing it. Do one of these wires connect to something related to the starter or something else that could be causing the start issue?
 
I have chased electric gremlins in my cars before. Thankfully, never really had to do that with the LX much. So these are just random things to look out for (not related to the platform specifically).
- What is on your keychain? any magnets, any other door key chips. e.g a gym key that you touch on a scanner to unlock the door etc.
- Look for anything done to the wiring, anything out of place. Any splices, maybe some previous work (before you bought the car) that was done for whatever reason. Especially soldering, never ages well for joining wires. You might have to pull some of the interior panels to inspect the wiring that goes to the key switch and trace it back.
- Have you tried using a different master key? Also open the key fob see what it's looking like. I have one Ebay master key and it's remote is separate from the small rice grain sized chip that servers as the ID for the key. If its moving around in there it might cause weird issues.
-I have a small pocket knife on my key chain and my house key.
-The only splice in the wiring that I have found is an after market DVD player was installed and it appears it was spliced into a radio wire behind the stereo. I is a Nakamichi head unit.
-I opened the key fob and it looks clean inside. It looks to be the original housing as well. I also did not know about the rice grain sized chip. I will open the fob again this weekend after I do a bit more research! Thank you!
 
On 9/8/25 -

I went to start the vehicle. The starter engaged but did not turn. I immediately cycled the key again and it started just fine. This was the first this had happened. On all other previous occasions the starter does not engage.

80 degree
1745 hours
Last drove Sunday around 1800 hours
All door were unlocked
Lights were not in auto
Nothing else unusual.
 
Just another option. To inspect the starter you can use a cheap borescope camera. Might give you some data before replacing the starter. Or investing time to just get to the starter.

The separate chip is only in my (spare) eBay key. The OEM key has everything in one unit (the remote).
 
You have been dealing with this for quite some time. Im impressed with your patience on the issue. I still think its your starter thats the root of the problem. A reman toyota one isnt too much and if you sell the core back to a dealer its only like $160. For me and for how long youve been dealing with this, I think its worth replacing it.
 
Alright. The issue has presented itself more frequently. Starter, intake manifold gaskets, a couple of new connectors are being ordered. Got myself a top side creeper because I was quoted $900 to do this job. I'm doing it myself and might as well do it in comfort.
 
Alright. The issue has presented itself more frequently. Starter, intake manifold gaskets, a couple of new connectors are being ordered. Got myself a top side creeper because I was quoted $900 to do this job. I'm doing it myself and might as well do it in comfort.
Good luck!
 
Alright! I am 50% done with this job. Got the starter out a couple days. Someone put in a Chinese unit and now I am paying the price. When I felt the gear from the starter after I removed, it was clearly sticking on the way out and the way in. This might explain the weak feeling I have described in earlier posts. I am leaving in the knock sensors. All the electrical quick disconnects are being replaced though, starter connect, knock sensors, and throttle sensors all are being replaced:

90980-11166 (x2) - Knock sensor connector
90980-11150 - Throttle body connector
90980-11400 - Starter connector

I am also replacing:

96761-24019 - Engine Coolant Pipe O ring

I saw the FSM called for another o ring which is also listed as Engine Coolant Pipe so I ordered this just in case:

96761-35035

The rear driver side stud on the intake manifold came out with the nut. So I ordered these:

92122-60828 - Bolt Stud
90182-08001 - Nut W Washer

I am also replacing all the gaskets along the way including new FIPG.

08826-00100 - Seal Packing (FIPG For Coolant)
IMG_6480[1].webp


If you plan on doing this job spend the money and buy a top side creeper! It runs about $150. Considering I was quoted $1200 for the starter and only the starter, I would say this was a great investment. If you are in Solano County I would be happy to let someone barrow this when I am done.

IMG_6374[1].webp


This made the job easy and fun. I was able to have my head all the way in the back of the engine bay without worry about putting any pressure on the radiator. I do not see how I would have been able to get to the two bolts that hold the starter without the topside creeper The rest of my parts should be here in a week.
 
Quick update!

Everything was back together! WAS is a strong foreshadow. Haha.

I double checked everything and it looked buttoned up. It took me three turn of the keys to start. Probably because the pump needed to prime the system. And when it fired up…Boy did it start up smooth! Smoothest I have ever felt it! I went to inspect there weren’t any leaks. I smelled gas though. Thought it might be the system priming up. But then I found the leak out of one of the injectors.

These are new reman injectors. So I text my injector guy, told him the issue. He is sending me 1 replacement injector and 8 new o rings so I can be on the safe side.

The car started and ran so smooth I’m not even mad. Haha. The new o-rings are a pretty easy job from what I just did. So once I get everything it will be about an hour to put together. I’m pumped.
IMG_6552.webp


My silver lining is that I did this job myself. Followed the FSM and all the advice on here and it was totally doable in my backyard. I feel better knowing exactly who my truck works and goes together. Easier in the long run to see a problem and know the solution.
 
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Quick update!

Everything was back together! WAS is a strong foreshadow. Haha.

I double checked everything and it looked buttoned up. It took me three turn of the keys to start. Probably because the pump needed to prime the system. And when it fired up…Boy did it start up smooth! Smoothest I have ever felt it! I went to inspect there weren’t any leaks. I smelled gas though. Thought it might be the system priming up. But then I found the leak out of one of the injectors.

These are new reman injectors. So I text my injector guy, told him the issue. He is sending me 1 replacement injector and 8 new o rings so I can be on the safe side.

The car started and ran so smooth I’m not even mad. Haha. The new o-rings are a pretty easy job from what I just did. So once I get everything it will be about an hour to put together. I’m pumped. View attachment 4021699

My silver lining is that I did this job myself. Followed the FSM and all the advice on here and it was totally doable in my backyard. I feel better knowing exactly who my truck works and goes together. Easier in the long run to see a problem and know the solution.
I have owned many vehicles over my life. This 100 Series LC is one of the easiest vehicles to work on. Just make sure you always invest in OEM parts. It will treat you well! Good job!
 
I have owned many vehicles over my life. This 100 Series LC is one of the easiest vehicles to work on. Just make sure you always invest in OEM parts. It will treat you well! Good job!
I agree on both those!

The injectors are reman and the new rings coming are OEM too. The crush washers at the front of the fuel rail are also new and OEM. I’m confident this thing will be back on the road this week.

The starter I pulled out was from china. My anxiety kicked thinking I went on two trips off road with it. Haha. The reman Denso starter felt wildly different.
 
What a job!. According to the photos I took of the process I started this on October 3rd and finished it last night. The list of maintenance is a lot but the opportunities were in front of me. I was not trying to rush because my big Mojave trip is not until January so time was on my side. Rain slowed me down for a week (sun roof leak and repair took place as well). And I had to wait a week for my replacement parts to arrive. I had to make two separate orders. !st order was the starter, the intake gaskets, and the water bypass gaskets, front and rear. Then once I got everything removed, I ordered the water pipe gasket, the other water pipe gasket (there is a big and a small one), new knock sensor connector, new battery connector, new throttle sensor connector, new fuel injectors (reman denso), ome injector O-rings, and new intake manifold stud and bolt. All OEM. Like I said, I was not in a rush and I really do not want to do this again.

After finishing the job and my first start I had a leaky injector. The front driver side injector. I pulled all the injectors and it looked like I did something to mar a couple of the O-rings. I think I torqued down the fuel rail on the spacers to much and cause the O-rings to be damaged because they looked perfect when they went in. I bought the reman injectors from New England Injector:


Mat who runs New England Injectors has supplied me with reman injectors for my 92 Ford Bronco earlier this year. They were shipped fast, in great shape, and ran like a charm. I messaged Mat about the leaky injector this time. Within two days I had a replacement injector and 8 new O-rings free of charge. Mat really took care of me and stands behind his product. If you end up buying reman injectors please message Mat on his website or through eBay under the same company.

Got the truck started up again last night and no leaks in the fuel line or the coolant. The reman denso starter is night and day difference from the China one I pulled out of there. It really makes me have a lot of confidence in the vehicle.

I learned a lot. For anyone doing the starter I would recommend the following:

-Get a top-side creeper. This saved my back and gave me access to the whole back of the engine compartment.
-When removing the starter, there is a 4 connector wire harness that connects to the top of the bell housing, just below the starter. I remember there being a 10mm bolt that holds it there. Maybe an 8mm. Remove that bolt and you can push the wire harness out of the way in order to easily get to the two bolts that hold the starter in. I would not have been able to see this bolt without the top-side creeper. Take out and install of the starter was way easier.
-Drain the coolant and replace the water cross over gaskets in front and back. You will need a tube of FIPG for this as well. Buy once cry once.
-Clean all your electrical disconnects before disconnecting them. This helped me remove some, especially the injectors.
-You can de-pin the old connectors with a simple pick tool. No need to buy fancy.
-Did I mention to buy a top side creeper? Haha

This took me months to track down the issue. I am feeling pretty good about this now. Thanks you everyone who responded on this thread!

In the last 2 months I got a new windshield, all this, and fixed the drain issue in my sunroof. I'm itching to get on the Mojave road with my son and my brother. Thanks to everyone that helped me out here.
 
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