Help Identifying a Coolant Hose

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BTLSHP

BTLSHP

Joined
Nov 15, 2017
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749
Location
Maryland
Could someone give me some help identifying the hose going through the firewall at the tip of the arrow in this picture. It is leaking a tiny bit through the cord(?) channels in the sidewall. Just enough so when the engine is hot you see bubbles of coolant.

I would also appreciate repair ideas, but I suspect I can look those up once I know what it is.

Many thanks in advance for your help, car belongs to my 87 year old dad and we try and keep it in good order.
IMG_0643.webp
 
What model year is the L/C?
 
I am guessing that replacement is a nightmare? Is the for the main or rear heater?
 
Here is the link for your 1994.
 
There are two sections of 5/8" heater hose coming off the top of
the T pipe, one short section in to the firewall and another S hose
going to the pipe closest to the valve cover (earlier models may be different).

Coming off the bottom of that T pipe is a 1/2" ID hose that runs to the lower pipe on the firewall; this is for the rear heater. That 1/2" formed hose (~90 degree bend) is not available as a separate part (it only comes with a new rear heater pipe assembly #1). But there is a formed OEM heater hose from a 100 series that can be cut to fit: 87245-6A201. It has two bends, one is closer to 90 degrees and it will fit.

Or, if you didn't want to dig that deep into it, you could try this: remove the sardine can clamps (unwind and pull the cotter pin out then unwind the bands) and replace them with something like Breeze Constant Torque clamps to see if that stops your leak??

Hope that helps.
 
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To be clear 91-92 are completely different from the 93-94s
And if you’re going to tackle all the heaters hoses make sure you get a control valve as it well most likely crumble when you try to remove the hose from it.
 
@BTLSHP: The repair instructions you need are in the A/C service section of the FSM, in the Resources section. The copy there says 1995, but yours is the same.

I would rate this as easy, but time consuming, if you have experience removing the dash and working behind it. I would rate it as difficult, if you don't have very much mechanical experience working on the dash related components, simply because there are so many different, unrelated parts and subassemblies to remove to get to the heater core, which you have to access in order to remove the far side of the hose. It can easily become instantly overwhelming. I went through this with my son, when he was 16, and it almost brought him to tears by the time we had everything apart. Once everything started to go back together, he looked at me and said "that wasn't so bad".

Here's the parts diagram (bookmark this site, once you've put in your father's VIN):
1649513295171.png


It is doable for a novice, you just have to keep telling yourself you can do it. Once you have the hoses in hand (and I'd replace both heater core hoses, you might as well, while you have everything apart), I'd plan on a good long weekend to get the job done. And clean out the cargo area; you'll need that, and a tarp over it, to store all the parts you're taking off.

You will also need the Instrument Panel (that's what Toyota calls the dash), section of the FSM (pages BO59-BO64), in order to remove it. I've done this many times, and I still have to use the FSM to remember what is where in there. It's also in the Resources section, under my name and 80-series. I'll post a photo of the back side of the heater core in a minute, so you can see what you're working towards (I have to go out to the parts rack and take a picture, I don't have one handy - maybe @flintknapper does ;)).

If you need any help, or have any further questions you don't want to take up space here with, feel free to IM me and I'll give you all the help I can.
 
Malleus said:
@BTLSHP: The repair instructions you need are in the A/C service section of the FSM, in the Resources section. The copy there says 1995, but yours is the same.

I would rate this as easy, but time consuming, if you have experience removing the dash and working behind it. I would rate it as difficult, if you don't have very much mechanical experience working on the dash related components, simply because there are so many different, unrelated parts and subassemblies to remove to get to the heater core, which you have to access in order to remove the far side of the hose. It can easily become instantly overwhelming. I went through this with my son, when he was 16, and it almost brought him to tears by the time we had everything apart. Once everything started to go back together, he looked at me and said "that wasn't so bad".

Here's the parts diagram (bookmark this site, once you've put in your father's VIN):
View attachment 2975916

It is doable for a novice, you just have to keep telling yourself you can do it. Once you have the hoses in hand (and I'd replace both heater core hoses, you might as well, while you have everything apart), I'd plan on a good long weekend to get the job done. And clean out the cargo area; you'll need that, and a tarp over it, to store all the parts you're taking off.

You will also need the Instrument Panel (that's what Toyota calls the dash), section of the FSM (pages BO59-BO64), in order to remove it. I've done this many times, and I still have to use the FSM to remember what is where in there. It's also in the Resources section, under my name and 80-series. I'll post a photo of the back side of the heater core in a minute, so you can see what you're working towards (I have to go out to the parts rack and take a picture, I don't have one handy - maybe @flintknapper does ;)).

If you need any help, or have any further questions you don't want to take up space here with, feel free to IM me and I'll give you all the help I can.
Click to expand...
Sincere question, Why would one want to remove the heater core to replace a leaking hose at the fire wall near the control valve ?
 
If you're going to tackle this yourself, here are a few thoughts about removing the dash, so you can get to the hearer core (these are not in the FSM, but should be):

Disconnect the battery. It's enough to remove the negative lead; wrap it in a cloth, or paper, towel and move it aside, away from the battery terminal. (always remove the negative lead first - this removes the battery from the electrical circuit, preventing unwanted connections during removal and installation)

1) there are a few non-replaceable parts (they are NLA), so be careful removing them (obvious, but it needs to be said, or you'll hate yourself later; I've been there)
2) first thing: tools.
a) Get a JIS screwdriver, if you don't already have one. If you use a #2 Phillips, you screw up (no pun intended) the heads of those many fasteners, and some will be a pain to get back in, if you get them out in serviceable condition.
(b Get a set of trim panel removal tools. I have these, but any similar will do.
1649514691157.webp

You need a couple of the fork type and one of the screwdriver-looking type, at a minimum. You'll thank me later.
3) parts
a) instrument cluster (NLA). This requires (4) screws to remove. Tilt the steering wheel all the way down, unscrew the cluster retaining screws, and then, using your smallest, most dextrous pair of hands, carefully disconnect the (4) electrical connectors behind the panel. It now comes straight out at you.
b) ashtray bracket (NLA). be very careful removing this (if it's not already broken) because this can be a perennial rattle generator if broken.
c) climate control cluster (NLA).
Set the parking brake, or use a wheel chock (or both)
Remove the shift lever release cover (the little rectangular "button" near the shift lever; pry it up from the dash side) (use the trim tools or you'll scratch it; Toyota says to wrap a screwdriver in masking tape, but that never works for me)
Move the shift lever to "2"
Place a small, folded hand, or shop, towel over the console, between the shift lever and the dash
Pull the cluster out as far as you can and then, using your smallest, most dextrous pair of hands, carefully disconnect the (2) electrical connectors behind the cluster
The cluster will fall on the towel (because you didn't have three hands)
d) steering column cover (NLA).
There are (3) screws (these are similar to the screws holding the other plastic dash parts together; they look similar to wood screws) holding the upper half to the lower half - remove these first. The upper half will be loose now.
There are (2) screws (these are shorter machine screws; you'll know what I mean when you see them) holding the lower half to the column.
Installation is the reverse of removal
If you do this in the other order, the clamshell will flop around on the column and become a PITA to remove/install. It's still possible to do, but much less fun.

Everything else is pretty well described in the FSM section on removing the dash. Take your time, use the sheet in the FSM that lists the different types of screws and separate them into little labelled containers as you go. You'll be glad you did when you start reassembling everything.
 
Broski said:
Sincere question, Why would one want to remove the heater core to replace a leaking hose at the fire wall near the control valve ?
Click to expand...
If it's the hose in the engine bay, you wouldn't. But if it's the hose on the other side of the pipe, you have no choice.

I assumed it was the latter, from the photo the OP posted
 
I think the OP need to clarify what hose he's referring two.
I was thinking it’s the one he pointed the arrow two ?
If so it’s a much simpler job !!!
 
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If so,
 
@Malleus did not mean to offend anyone, just don' t want the job to be any harder then it needs to be!!! Were all here to try and help.

We need to know what hose is leaking to be able to help!!!

Cheers
 
Broski said:
@Malleus did not mean to offend anyone, just don' t want the job to be any harder then it needs to be!!! Were all here to try and help.

We need to know what hose is leaking to be able to help!!!

Cheers
Click to expand...
Well, to be fair, I just did all my hoses under the hood and it took me even more than the X2+30 equation I usually use.

I would recommend buying all new hoses for back there and do them all at once.

Be careful with the brass tee, as they are easy to crush (but easy to straighten with the right tools.)
 
Broski said:
@Malleus did not mean to offend anyone, just don' t want the job to be any harder then it needs to be!!! Were all here to try and help.

We need to know what hose is leaking to be able to help!!!

Cheers
Click to expand...
None taken at all. I think it's obvious I'm a frequent rabbit hole traveller.
 
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