Help.. I killed my engine after pressure wash (1 Viewer)

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thanks for your advice. this morning, I looked for vacuum leaks and I think that I found a large one within the flexible intake ducting right after the MAFS. I taped it with electrical tape and it stabilized the idle. After warming and running it for 15 min, I noticed that the idle pulses between 800-1100 but it does sound much better. I ran the codes and I still get P300, but now different codes p302,304,306, 308. Never got these in the past. Not sure what you think but instead of tracking the coils and plugs, I will change the intake ducting first and then see if I need to replace anything else. I am still concerned about MAFS and a stuck PCV valve and perhaps how it can be affecting the idle.

by the way, I have a 2000 landcruiser with 218k. I guess that after I figure the rest of this out, I will finally start to baseline it.

here's my data stream. not sure how to intrepret.
FUELSYS1 &2 CL
LOAD_PCT 12
ECT 73 c (isn't this too low and causing a rich condition)
MAF 15 G/S
TP 18
SHRTFT1 19
LONGFT1 17
SHRTFT2 19
LONGFT2 0
SHRTFT22 99 ???
SHRTFT12 99 ???

any ideas?
 
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73c is low, should be 82-85c. From the fuel trims on bank 1 you are running lean. I doubt its a vacuum leak since that would effect both banks equally. I would check spark on bank 1, then maybe clean the injectors.
 
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Picture of this "I looked for vacuum leaks and I think that I found a large one within the flexible intake ducting right after the MAFS." you taped will be helpful.

I'd take off Air Tube and make sure it's dry inside, clean throttle body while at it. Also look for water inside intake manifold.
 
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Before disconnecting MAF it is best to:
Turn the ignition switch OFF.
Disconnect the negative (−) terminal cable from the battery.
Then Disconnect the MAF meter connector.

Keeping battery disconnected for 20 minutes will reset ECM, which you do want reset.


MAF test.jpg
 
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Your misfires are all on one side.
it is odd that the day before, it is more random . misfire at 1,3, and 8 and then yesterday, it switched to one side only. 2,4,6,8. Is it possible that my initial throttle body malfunction caused a rich environment and it fouled up my plugs as well as my fuel injectors? What is the best way to test the spark ignition as well as the fuel injectors?

I disconnected the battery to reset the ecu and will do some thorough checking of the intake duct and temporary repair. when I looked online, I only found the entire intake assembly from the MAF sensor to the throttle body. I just need the flexible duct from the MAF. Does anyone know if an aftermarket option exists?

thanks again for everyone help!
 

ramangain

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Cruise your local junkyards, you're bound to find something in decent shape
 

87warrior

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When I first brought my cruiser home I washed the engine. Two days later I had 3 miss-fire codes. The coils that corresponded to the miss-fires had a lot of condensation down the tube. I replaced the coils and all has been well for 5 years. At 245k miles I believe the rubber o-ring at the top of the coils were dried out and did not keep water out of the spark plug tube.

I disconnected the battery to reset the ecu and will do some thorough checking of the intake duct and temporary repair. when I looked online, I only found the entire intake assembly from the MAF sensor to the throttle body. I just need the flexible duct from the MAF. Does anyone know if an aftermarket option exists?
An intake tube from a Sequoia/Tundra can be made to fit, but it is not perfect. My original intake tube had a crack in it and I tried the $14 Sequoia tube vs the $$$$ for a LC intake tube.
1614616683367.png


*I have not washed my engine bay since doing so caused coils to go bad 5 years ago :hillbilly:
 
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When I first brought my cruiser home I washed the engine. Two days later I had 3 miss-fire codes. The coils that corresponded to the miss-fires had a lot of condensation down the tube. I replaced the coils and all has been well for 5 years. At 245k miles I believe the rubber o-ring at the top of the coils were dried out and did not keep water out of the spark plug tube.


An intake tube from a Sequoia/Tundra can be made to fit, but it is not perfect. My original intake tube had a crack in it and I tried the $14 Sequoia tube vs the $$$$ for a LC intake tube.
View attachment 2600141

*I have not washed my engine bay since doing so caused coils to go bad 5 years ago :hillbilly:
I verified today that I don't have any vacuum leaks using carb cleaner around the intake hoses and the brake booster. I watched the datastream from my OBD2 reader and my MAF sensor at idle is at 7 g/s and once again the SHRTFT12 and SHRTFT22 is at 99. When press the accelerator, I notice very high MAF reading 50-70 at 4000 RPM. Since this doesn't seem to be linear, and the exhaust still smells like gas, I would assume that the fuel injectors are dumping more fuel to accompany the increase in air volume. I just purchased Hitachi MAF0056 to replace it and see if this helps.

Other OBD2 readings, initially, I had p300, p303, p304, p308 and that after I warmed up the engine, the misfires were in p302,p304,p306, and p308. It bothers me that the misfires occur on different cylinders.
 
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If you haven't done so yet, pull the coils and let them dry, at least overnight. I'm pretty sure you forced water into the plug wells with the power washer, and your old coil boots are now causing arcing because of micro cracks in the boots. They will not dry out in the plug wells, and they won't dry out very fast out of them, either. You don't need to replace the entire coil, you can buy just the rubber boots. More Information for DENSO 6718184 - https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=4718148&cc=1364688&jsn=408
 
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Note: 100 series have 12 volt electric brake booster motor. Brake system does not connect to engine vacuum.

 
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Have you removed all of the coils and plugs for inspection? Also have you gotten a PO339 at any point?
Yes, I have removed all the coils and let them dry for over a day. It looked ok to me. It is very odd to me that now all of the misfires are on the side of the engine which was never pressure washed. The air intake was in the way. I have not gotten the P0339 at any point. Just P1126, and then P0300 and the various misfiring cylinders. I ordered a new MAF sensor from amazon and should get it tomorrow. I am hoping that it will fix my problems. The symptoms are consistent with a bad MAF. Otherwise, I was thinking the next step is to look at the fuel injectors.
 

AlpineAccess

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Yes, I have removed all the coils and let them dry for over a day. It looked ok to me. It is very odd to me that now all of the misfires are on the side of the engine which was never pressure washed. The air intake was in the way. I have not gotten the P0339 at any point. Just P1126, and then P0300 and the various misfiring cylinders. I ordered a new MAF sensor from amazon and should get it tomorrow. I am hoping that it will fix my problems. The symptoms are consistent with a bad MAF. Otherwise, I was thinking the next step is to look at the fuel injectors.

Did you remove all of the spark plugs as well, pull the EFI fuse and crank the motor a few times? Have you left the spark plugs out so that the cylinders can evaporate and fluid? If there is any moisture in the cylinders or condensation in the intake manifold getting pulled in you will continue to get misfires as the water cools the combustion.

Disconnecting the MAF should be all you need to do to verify if its the MAF or not, the engine can run with it disconnected. It will run in a baseline/safe mode and the motor will idle fine but not efficiently. Bad MAF and the motor is getting false data points and trying to correct.
 

94SRUNNER

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Yes, I have removed all the coils and let them dry for over a day. It looked ok to me. It is very odd to me that now all of the misfires are on the side of the engine which was never pressure washed. The air intake was in the way. I have not gotten the P0339 at any point. Just P1126, and then P0300 and the various misfiring cylinders. I ordered a new MAF sensor from amazon and should get it tomorrow. I am hoping that it will fix my problems. The symptoms are consistent with a bad MAF. Otherwise, I was thinking the next step is to look at the fuel injectors.
What brand MAF sensor did you go with?
 
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likely in the salvage yard
Yes, I have removed all the coils and let them dry for over a day. It looked ok to me. It is very odd to me that now all of the misfires are on the side of the engine which was never pressure washed. The air intake was in the way. I have not gotten the P0339 at any point. Just P1126, and then P0300 and the various misfiring cylinders. I ordered a new MAF sensor from amazon and should get it tomorrow. I am hoping that it will fix my problems. The symptoms are consistent with a bad MAF. Otherwise, I was thinking the next step is to look at the fuel injectors.
"Other OBD2 readings, initially, I had p300, p303, p304, p308 and that after I warmed up the engine, the misfires were in p302,p304,p306, and p308. It bothers me that the misfires occur on different cylinders."

Your misfire codes have jumped cylinders. Are you certain that you reinstalled each coil in the cylinder which it was removed from?

I'm not sure if an intermittent crank sensor signal would always throw the PO339 code but your symptoms do match a PO339. I would go over all electrical connectors again. Maybe remove them and allow to dry even if there is no visible moisture. Pay particular attention to wiring & connectors at the Throttle body (cause of P1126) and the one at the Crank sensor.
 
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JunkCrzr89

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@JunkCrzr89 What do you think the op should look at here?
Not sure how I missed this thread, so thanks for the tag.

Tough to keep track of everything that OP has done since starting the thread. I’m with others in that it sounds like he has some bad coils, though replacing the boots won’t fix anything if the plastic shafts are cracked (common on higher mileage coils), and that water intrusion into the coils has caused the issues. Possible that the MAF was damaged when using the wrong cleaner and/or water intrusion, too. However, my primary question now is, when following @2001LC and @AlpineAccess advice, did he reinstall all the bad coils on bank 2 or were all the coils reinstalled in the locations from which they originated?
 
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Not sure how I missed this thread, so thanks for the tag.

Tough to keep track of everything that OP has done since starting the thread. I’m with others in that it sounds like he has some bad coils, though replacing the boots won’t fix anything if the plastic shafts are cracked (common on higher mileage coils), and that water intrusion into the coils has caused the issues. Possible that the MAF was damaged when using the wrong cleaner and/or water intrusion, too. However, my primary question now is, when following @2001LC and @AlpineAccess advice, did he reinstall all the bad coils on bank 2 or were all the coils reinstalled in the locations from which they originated?
That is a great idea to remove the MAF connector and see if it will run in limp mode.

After removing the coils to dry, I reinstalled all the coils in the original position. In addition, before reinstalling the coils, I sprayed the coils both inside and the connector with crc electric cleaner and put dielectric grease in it. I would hope that the grease is not interfering with the firing. I watched a youtube video where they recommended doing this.
 

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