Does anyone have the part numbers or advice on how I should continue:/ ps I’m a teenager that’s why I got myself into this situation...
HELP! Cross threaded upper shock mount bolts.... (1 Viewer)
- Thread starter landcruisertx
- Start date
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90119-10652
You are going to have to chase the threads on the other side as well or you will toast the new ones too.
You are going to have to chase the threads on the other side as well or you will toast the new ones too.
- Thread starter
- #3
Thank you for the part number, can you explain how to chase the threads?
You'll need to get a tap to run through the bolt holes and clean them up. Basically it's recutting the threads.
Something like this.
SAE & Metric Tap and Die Set, 60 Pc.
Something like this.
SAE & Metric Tap and Die Set, 60 Pc.
- Thread starter
- #5
Thank you, do you know what size the bolt thread is?
- Thread starter
- #6
one more question since your quite the library of knowledge, which way does the shock mounting plate go? Is it the hole side towards the car or away?
Slotted side in towards center of vehicle.
Hole side is out towards the exterior of the vehicle
You can see it here:
- Thread starter
- #8
Do you know what size tap I should use to fix the threads on the inside? And thank you
Here you go:
M10x1.25
forum.ih8mud.com
M10x1.25
Rear Shock mount bolt.
Does anyone know the thread size and pitch of the rear shock mount bolt. Mine sheared off after its seized in the tube. Also does anyone know the p# for a new one.
forum.ih8mud.com
Should be M10 x1.25
I don't have an 80 here so I cannot confirm.
I don't have an 80 here so I cannot confirm.
- Thread starter
- #11
Big thank you!Here you go:
M10x1.25
Rear Shock mount bolt.
Does anyone know the thread size and pitch of the rear shock mount bolt. Mine sheared off after its seized in the tube. Also does anyone know the p# for a new one.
- Thread starter
- #12
Thank you once more!
Some tips:
Always start your bolts and nuts by hand at least 1- 1/2 turns before putting any kind of wrench to it, ratchet or impact.
If you turn the fastener backward in its hole you will feel the start of the threads drop into alignment, then rotate forward a couple of turns to start the fastener. (It takes a little "feel", you'll figure it out)
Get a cheap set of calipers to size bolts, or a thread ID plate from Harbor Freight.
To fix the bolt you'll need a thread file,
DO NOT RUN A DIE DOWN OVER THE BOLT, it will 1) cut it slightly undersiz on the pitch diameter and 2) its a cold formed threaded bolt and you'll create stress risers in the thread root.
Always start your bolts and nuts by hand at least 1- 1/2 turns before putting any kind of wrench to it, ratchet or impact.
If you turn the fastener backward in its hole you will feel the start of the threads drop into alignment, then rotate forward a couple of turns to start the fastener. (It takes a little "feel", you'll figure it out)
Get a cheap set of calipers to size bolts, or a thread ID plate from Harbor Freight.
To fix the bolt you'll need a thread file,
DO NOT RUN A DIE DOWN OVER THE BOLT, it will 1) cut it slightly undersiz on the pitch diameter and 2) its a cold formed threaded bolt and you'll create stress risers in the thread root.
TurboDennis
SILVER Star
Im 99% sure that you're mistaken.
Hole towards the center, slot towards the exterior.
The mounting plates are actually marked "L" and "R" on top.
Yup. Could be wrong. I don’t have an 80 around to look at.
Yes, PN does indicate LH/RH.
TurboDennis
SILVER Star
No, i mean each plate is marked "L" and "R" on top - to indicate the orientation in which it must be mounted.
Negative. L/R indications stamped/marked on part will always indicate orientation on LH/RH side of vehicle.
Slot to outside, just crawled under mine to look.
TurboDennis
SILVER Star
Trust me, each plate has "L" AND "R" stamped on it. On the passenger side plate the R would be stamped near the slot, and on the d.s. plate R is stamped near the hole.
That would be a first that I’ve seen that. Do you have a picture of this?
