Am I an idiot? (1 Viewer)

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Joined
May 4, 2023
Threads
3
Messages
20
Location
Thousand Oaks, CA
...for thinking I can buy a 2005 LX470 with 320k miles and get another 10 years and 100k miles out of it?

I found one for sale for $10k that I negotiated down to $8500.

Negatives:
  1. High miles
  2. Brake booster assembly is original
  3. Passenger side valve cover leak
  4. Need new tires
  5. Various interior switches don't work
  6. Center diff lock is sticky
  7. Timing belt was changed 50k miles ago
Positives:
  1. One-owner CA car
  2. CA definition of "zero rust"
  3. Drivetrain is butter smooth
  4. Only a couple of minor rear-end accidents with no frame damage
  5. Body and interior are clean
  6. Suspension bushings are still solid with no cracks
  7. CV joints are also solidly sealed with no cracks or leaks
  8. Newish radiator with newish t-hoses

It won't see daily commute duty and will only be used for short drives and the occasional trip to Colorado or Utah. So an average of 10k a year. We wanted to get it so we can drive to campgrounds and visit locations that our Prius cannot. We only plan to do light offroading on dirt, sand, mud. Overland trails aren't in the plans, but that can change. I've been working on cars as a hobby all my life and doing things like the timing belt doesn't seem intimidating. I hope to buy it and make it mechanically perfect incrementally by tackling things from big to small. I'm budgeting about $2000 year for regular maintenance.

I know you guys are a lot smarter than me. Do you think I'm an idiot for doing this? Or is this actually realistic? Please help enlighten this fool. I appreciate you taking the time to help me out.
 
Sounds like you got a good deal. Not crazy at all.
 
The only problem I see with your logic is the 10k miles per year. Once you get the LX baselined I suspect you will fall in love with it. This love will cause you to put an easy 20k per year on it 👍
 
Another 100k miles? Very easily. Mine currently has 450k. Another 10 years shouldn't be a problem either as long as you keep the rust at bay.
 
If you're an idiot I'm a dang moron. I think it's a fine plan. I bought mine for almost twice that (island prices) with more problems and dont regret it for a second.
I hear you on the island tax! At least you save on gas not having to drive far for adventures 🤙
 
Since no one has officially Welcomed you to MUD, Welcome to IH8MUD !! :flipoff2::flipoff2::flipoff2:(Official MUD welcome emo).
If it was me I would show up with cash $7500 at first then slowly bring it up, check the service history if you haven't already, like what others have said after you baselined it you will drive it like a Prius everywhere. My wife drives an 03 4th Gen. 4Runner with 320k miles (V8) and still strong she won't let me borrow it unless my truck is down for repairs that is the same engine you have. Let us know what happens if you get it.:cheers:
 
The only problem I see with your logic is the 10k miles per year. Once you get the LX baselined I suspect you will fall in love with it. This love will cause you to put an easy 20k per year on it 👍
I really hope that's the case! The goal is to make it mechanically sound so we can take 5,000-mile road trips without worries.
 
Another 100k miles? Very easily. Mine currently has 450k. Another 10 years shouldn't be a problem either as long as you keep the rust at bay.
Thanks for putting my nerves at ease! The chassis is 10/10 right now but I'll make sure I keep an eye on corrosion 👍
 
Since no one has officially Welcomed you to MUD, Welcome to IH8MUD !! :flipoff2::flipoff2::flipoff2:(Official MUD welcome emo).
If it was me I would show up with cash $7500 at first then slowly bring it up, check the service history if you haven't already, like what others have said after you baselined it you will drive it like a Prius everywhere. My wife drives an 03 4th Gen. 4Runner with 320k miles (V8) and still strong she won't let me borrow it unless my truck is down for repairs that is the same engine you have. Let us know what happens if you get it.:cheers:
Thank you for the warm welcome! :flipoff2::flipoff2::flipoff2:
It's humbling to ask for advice in one of the most respected truck communities. The knowledge you all have is truly amazing. I'm excited to get up to speed and be able to contribute back.

The seller was pretty firm at $8500 and that's the price we walked away at. I'm making a second trip tomorrow to seal the deal, but not sure how much more I can grind. I might be able to get a couple hundred for having to get new tires right after the transaction, but I'm not expecting it. My wife always wanted a 4Runner, so it'll be fun fighting over who gets to drive the LX. 😁 I'll post updates here with pictures if the deal works out. Thanks again!
 
I bought pretty close to the same truck ('99 with 309K for $8K), and it promptly barfed the brake motor assembly ($1400, including tax) and an alternator. Dash buttons fixed by me, along with heater tees, the 'D' light bulb, and host of other dash lights. Very typical. Seems like you got a good rig at the right price, but you will want to fix it yourself.
 
I bought pretty close to the same truck ('99 with 309K for $8K), and it promptly barfed the brake motor assembly ($1400, including tax) and an alternator. Dash buttons fixed by me, along with heater tees, the 'D' light bulb, and host of other dash lights. Very typical. Seems like you got a good rig at the right price, but you will want to fix it yourself.
Oh man, it's a relief I'm not alone! The fact that the brake motor assembly is now much cheaper at $1400 instead of $2400 swayed me too. It seems like a very straightforward job I can do at home. My mind was blown when I found out you don't even have to bench bleed it!
 
The fact that the brake motor assembly is now much cheaper at $1400 instead of $2400 swayed me too. It seems like a very straightforward job I can do at home. My mind was blown when I found out you don't even have to bench bleed it!

Correct - it came pre-filled with a fair amount of fluid. I had it removed, installed, bled, by 11:30 AM on a Saturday. You don't have to remove the under-dash covers - just get in there with some sockets and unbolt the brake assembly. Easy as pie. It was a relief to no longer hear the alarm and have the brakes come back.

Start at reply #12 in the link in my footer - you'll see what commutator and brush carnage looks like on a high-miles brake accumulator.
 
The fact that the brake motor assembly is now much cheaper at $1400 instead of $2400 swayed me too. It seems like a very straightforward job I can do at home. My mind was blown when I found out you don't even have to bench bleed it!

Correct - it came pre-filled with a fair amount of fluid. I had it removed, installed, bled, by 11:30 AM on a Saturday. You don't have to remove the under-dash covers - just get in there with some sockets and unbolt the brake assembly. Easy as pie. It was a relief to no longer hear the alarm and have the brakes come back.

Start at reply #12 in the link in my footer - you'll see what commutator and brush carnage looks like on a high-miles brake accumulator.
Wow, I've never seen an electric motor that bad! The motor in the one I'm looking at didn't make any loud sounds, but that can change any day so I'll be prepared. Thanks for all the pointers. I'll update with pics here if the deal works out tomorrow!
 
Quick update! We ended up picking her up this weekend.

Put some new 255/70-18 Geolandar G015s on and averaged 14.75mpg on the drive back. Near flawless car overall except for the valve cover leak and the ticking timebomb in the brake booster assembly. I drove quite a few of these brand new and was surprised at how little it aged. There's a tiny bit more drivetrain slack and a little roar under load, but the suspension was surprisingly tight. I don't think anybody could guess this thing has over 300k miles.

Thank you all for your expert advise and for putting my mind at ease! I'm beyond happy at the decision you all supported.

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The valve cover leak is a cheap and easy fix to diy, just give yourself a day to work on it so you're not rushed and a step stool so your comfortable when you're re-seating the covers, which can honestly be the most time-consuming part. If it's your first time doing it on a V8, I know it should make logical sense, but it still surprised me for some reason- it takes literally twice as long as it does to do it on an Inline 4...
 
Sharp truck. The color is neat just because you don't see many trucks in that color made by anyone.

I'm beyond happy at the decision you all supported.

Oh, we're just happy because we don't have to pay the cost of your decision! ;) Valve covers are fairly easy, compared to most modern junk - start with the passenger's side first to build up your confidence.
 

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