Hellfire Knuckle Question (1 Viewer)

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Ok, so looks like not many have gone this route (if at all).

My goal is in the photo below - will be measuring if we can re-locate the panhard bracket similar to this setup and if it would interfere with anything. After talking with Jose, its possible that I'll need to Y-link on the outer mounting point of the HF steering arm as the inside point might not have enough clearance to operate without coming into contact with the panhard relocate bracket.

 
I'm also wanting to know the answer to this as well. Getting into a new to me 80 and want to go hellfire high steer same time as I put rcvs in.
 
If you use the outer mounting holes, you'll have reverse Ackerman steering. To get Ackerman steering or even parallel steering, you'll need custom steering arms.

knuckles-hellfire.jpg
 
So quick update - I came across a deal on a complete front 80 axle w/ locker. I picked that up and will be cleaning it up, tearing it down and re-building it with my hellfire knuckles so that my truck isn't out of commission and I can work slow.

Given that I have this new gift of time, I'm ditching the stock coils & shocks and will be slowly setting this axle up for 3 link.

Goal will be:
- 4 wheel underground 3 link kit
- gusseted knuckle balls
- axle truss (where brackets allow)
- pumpkin armor
- Will most likely copy Jose's steering set up, using the outermost mounting holes unless we can figure out a new location for the 4wheelunderground panhard bracket.

Will start dissassembly in the next few weeks.
 
Is this going under an 80?
 
If you use the outer mounting holes, you'll have reverse Ackerman steering. To get Ackerman steering or even parallel steering, you'll need custom steering arms.

View attachment 1636197

So I ran my drag link on top of my tie rod on my last truck with zero issues. What is it that is supposed to be negative about this approach?
 
Have you experienced undesirable results running the stock 80 set up?
 
RuffStuff specialties is 50 miles up the road from me and I have given much consideration to hellfires myself but my current set up keeps working. The hub and knuckle studs really need to be kept torqued.

I look forward to following your progress.
 
I too am interested to see if anyone goes to this hi-steer system without doing a 3 link. Everyone hates on radius arms saying they limit down travel, but would be interesting to see how well it flexes with the elimination of the tie rod/drag link behind the axle binding things up, or shocks limiting down travel.
 
I am eagerly awaiting the Front Range Knuckles because they retain ABS and allow for larger brakes. Either way, I really want to see a high steer solution for the 80 that works with the stock radius arms.

When I put a OME Medium on my 80 years ago, the handling was noticeably better EXCEPT I had some bump steer. And that was just a 2-2.5” lift. That has made me reluctant to go higher.

It’s stupid easy to correct the steering on a Jeep. I feel the lack of steering correction to be the Achilles Heel of the 80s suspension, more so that the radius arms.
 
So I ran my drag link on top of my tie rod on my last truck with zero issues. What is it that is supposed to be negative about this approach?
It's not a matter of the drag link in relation to the tie rod but rather the tie rod location on the steering arms.

16866d1416605281-tire-chatter-florida-ackerman-angles.jpg


Most vehicles are set-up with Ackerman steering. But this can be more difficult when the steering arms are in front of the knuckles because of clearance with the wheel.

image.jpeg


The tie rod end wants to be located here for Ackerman. You can use the existing outer hole and it'll drive down the road just fine but turning radius will be increased and the tires will squeal quite a bit while turning sharp on asphalt.

knuckles-hellfire-1 3.jpg
 
Ok in my research looking into how to make this work I came across Jose's Y-Link steering upgrade thread here: A real steering upgrade: Y-link & 1-ton TREs

My plan is to utilize that same Y-Link kit through Ruff Stuff. I will have them ream out the holes for 1-ton TRE and put the tie rod on the front holes of the high steer arms. Comparing the placement of the tie rod on Jose's setup and where the high steer arms are on the hellfire I really don't see this being much different geometry wise. Should just be a bit higher which is obviously the whole point of the high steer. Should work a treat.
 
Does look like I might need to raise the panhard bracket to match the height of the drag link however. Otherwise I might run into some issues.
 
Ok in my research looking into how to make this work I came across Jose's Y-Link steering upgrade thread here: A real steering upgrade: Y-link & 1-ton TREs

My plan is to utilize that same Y-Link kit through Ruff Stuff. I will have them ream out the holes for 1-ton TRE and put the tie rod on the front holes of the high steer arms. Comparing the placement of the tie rod on Jose's setup and where the high steer arms are on the hellfire I really don't see this being much different geometry wise. Should just be a bit higher which is obviously the whole point of the high steer. Should work a treat.

Make sure to check out his special mention of the "Freddilink" instead of the ruffstuff modded TRE.

Freddilink Steering Adapter Bung
 
image-jpeg.1636850


What a great visual @hoser . Thanks. I have been trying to figure out why my son's ute corners so bad as compared to stock. We added 9" to the frame, so we messed up with this angle as well as changed the turning radius with the length of the car. Am I correct to say that we moved from Ackerman to parallel and maybe to reverse? @7powernerd
 
If your steering is stock, then it will still have Ackerman steering. I don't think the Ackerman angle is extremely critical for this type of vehicle as Toyota uses the same steering arms on vehicles of varied wheelbases.
 
Did you end up moving the panhard bar?
 

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