Right. Your truck doesn't have a vac system. I'm wrestling with keeping mine or swapping over.
Builds Hell and High Water - A Build
- Thread starter gregkline55
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Right. Your truck doesn't have a vac system. I'm wrestling with keeping mine or swapping over.
- Thread starter
- #42
i definitely wouldnt say I'm the most knowing on the subject but I would think that a mechanical setup would be the more reliable option, always have been skeptical of vac operated 4WD after having a few wranglers. I went with it cause I wanted to be able to run 2L, also makes it easier when doing the LS swap!
You can run 2 Low with the FJ62 by removing a single plate and retaining the factory vacuum system. Lots of people shy away from the vacuum setup but I've never had an issue.
Just read everything, great build. Nice shop and farm! Looking forward to seeing more progress.
- Thread starter
- #45
Thank you! More progress to come!
- Thread starter
- #46
Was able to get to the shop last night and make some progress, but first it was a beautiful day so a nice spirited drive was in order through the update NY country roads in the T!
Once I had my fun it was time to start working, started off with getting the trans cross member mount fit up
Then I went over to a friends shop to press out the old bearings in the TC, having a good press makes a world of difference! Didnt get too many pics through this process cause of dirty hands, but found a local shop thats going to hot tank everything, hoping to get that to them on tuesday.
Also the retaining ring on the one end of the shaft is a real PITA to remove, need to get a new one, is this still available from toyota? Anyone have a part number?
Then worked on removing all of the old fuel lines front to back as I will be replacing it all with 6AN line.
Was hoping to get the tank fully removed but it wasnt in the cards as every bolt holding the spare tire mount gave me issue, but it came out without any power tools!
But that was the night! I took the day off tomorrow to see my cousin and uncle who will be in town from CO so hopefully I can get a decent amount done in the shop. Will be able to get the tank out completely and maybe tackle cleaning it out. Then Ill also have to figure out what im going to do with the other lines that run off the tank, mainly the line that came off of the charcoal canister, what do most of you typically do with that? Vent to atmosphere?
Also will get the engine and transmission mated up and ready to go in to get the mounts all figured out!
Once I had my fun it was time to start working, started off with getting the trans cross member mount fit up
Then I went over to a friends shop to press out the old bearings in the TC, having a good press makes a world of difference! Didnt get too many pics through this process cause of dirty hands, but found a local shop thats going to hot tank everything, hoping to get that to them on tuesday.
Also the retaining ring on the one end of the shaft is a real PITA to remove, need to get a new one, is this still available from toyota? Anyone have a part number?
Then worked on removing all of the old fuel lines front to back as I will be replacing it all with 6AN line.
Was hoping to get the tank fully removed but it wasnt in the cards as every bolt holding the spare tire mount gave me issue, but it came out without any power tools!
But that was the night! I took the day off tomorrow to see my cousin and uncle who will be in town from CO so hopefully I can get a decent amount done in the shop. Will be able to get the tank out completely and maybe tackle cleaning it out. Then Ill also have to figure out what im going to do with the other lines that run off the tank, mainly the line that came off of the charcoal canister, what do most of you typically do with that? Vent to atmosphere?
Also will get the engine and transmission mated up and ready to go in to get the mounts all figured out!
You redoing your brake lines as well? Great work. I'm falling behind.
Also interested in how to handle the other tank lines.
Also interested in how to handle the other tank lines.
- Thread starter
- #48
The hard lines I wont be because theyre in great shape, no corrosion at all, but when I get into rebuilding the axles and going through the brakes I'll replace the soft lines for sure.
Ill keep you updated on what I end up doing, I'll know more once I actually have the tank out and can see whats happening.
Also Nic, I have a family friend that is in the final steps of an R2.8 swap into an older suburban, man has been diesel swapping trucks for years and this is his first 2.8, so if you even have questions even I can pass them along!
- Thread starter
- #49
So started out today with a nice 25 mile bike ride before hopping into my work! First task of the day was getting the transmission mated to the engine, first time installing an auto so it was a little learning curve to get the torque converter all the way onto the input shaft. But once on it all bolted up nicely, consin was here from CO so his help made this job much easier!
After that I finished up the tear down on the transfer case, removed all the old seals and bearings. Then went about cleaning up all of the internals, the rest of the parts will be sent over to the machine shop to get hot tanked on tuesday. Also got the new bearings pressed on!
So a question I have is about the seal on the inside of the speedometer cable part, how are you removing it?
Final job of the day was finishing removing the tank, just had to finish removing the vent lines on side of the tank, tank looked really good on the outside but inside was a bit disappointing...
Lots of rust in the tank so Ill have to see if its saveable. Or maybe I'll find a different option.
After that I finished up the tear down on the transfer case, removed all the old seals and bearings. Then went about cleaning up all of the internals, the rest of the parts will be sent over to the machine shop to get hot tanked on tuesday. Also got the new bearings pressed on!
So a question I have is about the seal on the inside of the speedometer cable part, how are you removing it?
Final job of the day was finishing removing the tank, just had to finish removing the vent lines on side of the tank, tank looked really good on the outside but inside was a bit disappointing...
Lots of rust in the tank so Ill have to see if its saveable. Or maybe I'll find a different option.
- Thread starter
- #50
So last night I went down to the shop with hopes of finishing off the transfer case as I had just had the case halves cleaned, but the seal on the front case half that that the transmission output shaft goes through was the wrong size....
But got on the phone with Georg this morning and he helped me get the right part number and I was able to get to the dealer just now and order one, will have it first thing in the morning!
After that worked on some little stuff, first was installing the toyota oil pressure sensor onto the vortec
And also got my new heater control push/pull cable, found it on ebay, needed a longer one to work with the new bypass valve
But got on the phone with Georg this morning and he helped me get the right part number and I was able to get to the dealer just now and order one, will have it first thing in the morning!
After that worked on some little stuff, first was installing the toyota oil pressure sensor onto the vortec
And also got my new heater control push/pull cable, found it on ebay, needed a longer one to work with the new bypass valve
- Thread starter
- #51
Went to the dealer today and they now said I wont have the seal until monday or tuesday.... sucks cause its really slowed me down, but am still fiddling around with stuff. Pulled the dash pad last night to get access the heater control and cable. Probably wont get much done this weekend and I'm actually going back to work (in the office, have been working from home for two months) on tuesday! COVID is finally easing up here in NY and it feels damn good, tired of being cooped up!
I got that speedo seal out with an old dull dental pick. Was careful not to touch the housing it pops out pretty easy. Did your case seal kit have that o-ring for the outside? Mine didn’t.
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@gregkline55 Have you checked your VIN to see if the gas tank has been recalled yet? I know of a spare tank also from an 81 but the truck never had the recall done. Not sure if the tank is even worth using.
Here is a recent thread concerning the gas tank recall.
forum.ih8mud.com
Here is a recent thread concerning the gas tank recall.
FJ60 Gas Tank Recall Update: January 2020
I figured it was worthwhile to provide factual information regarding the status of the FJ60 gas tank recall. There are a lot of threads currently on MUD with incorrect information/out-dated information and facts. Just want to provide a time-stamped update on parts availability and process for...
forum.ih8mud.com
- Thread starter
- #54
Mine did, in fact I had two, got a full seal kit with the adapter kit and the TC rebuild kit. Must have been a fluke that you didnt.
@gregkline55 Have you checked your VIN to see if the gas tank has been recalled yet? I know of a spare tank also from an 81 but the truck never had the recall done. Not sure if the tank is even worth using.
Here is a recent thread concerning the gas tank recall.
FJ60 Gas Tank Recall Update: January 2020
I figured it was worthwhile to provide factual information regarding the status of the FJ60 gas tank recall. There are a lot of threads currently on MUD with incorrect information/out-dated information and facts. Just want to provide a time-stamped update on parts availability and process for...
I havent yet but I've been meaning to, going to dig more into this tonight!
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- #55
So made some good progress yesterday on my last day of COVID-cation, was able to get the seal I needed and got the TC all together! Went together smoothly without any frustration, followed the video on YouTube that was very indepth and showed exactly how to do it. When installing the output flanges though I put the new nuts on with the original washers, didnt seem right so pulled the washers and all was good, theyre flanged nuts.
Tossed on the crusty driveshaft on there to see how it fit up, will have to see what I can do with it. Have seen mixed reviews about the smaller universal joint, would love to hear peoples thoughts on this.
Now that the TC is on I can move forward with getting it all into the 60 and get the engine mounts and crossmember moving, prepped things so next time im at the shop I can get that moving!
Tossed on the crusty driveshaft on there to see how it fit up, will have to see what I can do with it. Have seen mixed reviews about the smaller universal joint, would love to hear peoples thoughts on this.
Now that the TC is on I can move forward with getting it all into the 60 and get the engine mounts and crossmember moving, prepped things so next time im at the shop I can get that moving!
- Thread starter
- #56
Sorry for delay of posts, with life getting back to normal I've had less time to get to work on it, but still progress is being made!
Got the engine placed today and the mounts all tacked in for the engine, next step will be the trans crossmember.
So as far as placement goes, I'm about 3/4" to the drivers side and about a 1-1/2" gap from the firewall. Rear output flange to rear differential flange is 37". Oil pan clearance is pretty good but might end up going to a lower profile pan just for my own peace of mind.
Got the engine placed today and the mounts all tacked in for the engine, next step will be the trans crossmember.
So as far as placement goes, I'm about 3/4" to the drivers side and about a 1-1/2" gap from the firewall. Rear output flange to rear differential flange is 37". Oil pan clearance is pretty good but might end up going to a lower profile pan just for my own peace of mind.
- Thread starter
- #57
So got things all figured out with the engine location, sitting at 4 degree lean front to back, will be doing the cross member install in the next update!
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- #58
Disappointing weekend for work on the cruiser, parts were delayed and didnt show up so spend some time to clean up my workspace and play around with the front body panels, getting antsy to make some progress!
- Thread starter
- #59
Progress last night! Got the drivetrain fully hung by its own mounts! Engine mounts were already done but my TC cross member finally showed up and I got that all tacked in place and the driveline angles correct.
Sitting at 0 deg left to right, and floating right between 3 to 4 deg front to back. and im offset a little over half an inch to the drivers side. Rear driveshaft flange to flange is 37". From what ive been reading that seems to hit all of the sweet spots.
Next order of business is final welding of the mounts, painting those areas of the frame, getting the twin stick bent up and welded, and driveshafts figured out.
Now that its in the truck I need to put in the front driveshaft and see what I'm dealing with for clearance
Sitting at 0 deg left to right, and floating right between 3 to 4 deg front to back. and im offset a little over half an inch to the drivers side. Rear driveshaft flange to flange is 37". From what ive been reading that seems to hit all of the sweet spots.
Next order of business is final welding of the mounts, painting those areas of the frame, getting the twin stick bent up and welded, and driveshafts figured out.
Now that its in the truck I need to put in the front driveshaft and see what I'm dealing with for clearance
- Thread starter
- #60
Long time no post all! Have been busy making the most of the beautiful weather here in the NE and have been spending much of my time in the High Peaks here in the ADK!
So where I left off, was playing around with driveshaft clearance, its abysmal to say the least. I dont think that I'll be able to make it work without going to a smaller u-joint. Can anyone help with some recommendations on this? Drivetrain is already moved to the DS an 1".
So where I left off, was playing around with driveshaft clearance, its abysmal to say the least. I dont think that I'll be able to make it work without going to a smaller u-joint. Can anyone help with some recommendations on this? Drivetrain is already moved to the DS an 1".
