Without coolant the metals in the engine will eat each other so there is no drama. Coolant is king. Edited above to provide extra info.
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Heater T's the $1 version
- Thread starter LandCruiserPhil
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I wanted to get to the real Tee(tea) debate but my message got deleted. It must of been some cross Atlantic discrimination.
MauiUZJ
Gotta have duct tape...
"We must hot the pot before we can brew the tea"...
No much simpler, it’s milk/cream not Ice guys.
- Thread starter
- #105
More discrimination by the power hungry
I went the 4 season galvanized version for the LX. Better and safer than copper?
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- Thread starter
- #106
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^^ They look like what Toyota should of used in the first place. Problem solved.
- Thread starter
- #108
So does that mean galvanized is approved in this discussion?
We will find out
MauiUZJ
Gotta have duct tape...
The look good, problem solved... I'm waiting for mine to arrive sometime in the New Year...
They look like zinc electroplated pieces of steel. When I think galvanized I think of hot dipped steel....
At any rate it ended up being a $12 per T fix instead of a $1 fix... OK, I can live with that...
What of your old LX & the friend whose engine is going to corrode away???
And once again...anti corrosion additives....
Copper turns green from oxidation when it is NOT treated with corrosion inhibitors. Steel also corrodes when not treated...engine coolant is chocked full of corrosion inhibitors.
- Thread starter
- #112
The new owner is president of our local Mensa club and a retired rocket scientist so who am I to say anything, buyer beware.
MauiUZJ
Gotta have duct tape...
Galvanized usually means dipping steel into a hot tank of molten zinc & other metals to form a coating. According to the chart Zinc Does not cause galvanic corrosion in Aluminum.
Thinking these T's are electroplated with Zinc specifically to prevent corrosion in the aluminum components in contact with the coolant....
We will see how the trucks fare in the long haul.
Here's to making over 400k between engine overhauls.
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2001LC
SILVER Star
Electrolysis effects:
What base material are those metal Ts?
Maybe the recipie for avoiding corrosion damage is more frequent coolant changes regardless of LL or SLL properties. (30-50k 3-5yrs including Toyota Ts) 100k as the benchmark for the first coolant change is too high. That has to be the outer limit of useful life of coolant, but I suspect it lost its beneficial corrosion protection properties earlier maybe at 60-75k. As coolant ages chemical composition changes along with its corrosion inhibiting properties, which is when weaker components start to sacrafice- like you see above.
Maybe the recipie for avoiding corrosion damage is more frequent coolant changes regardless of LL or SLL properties. (30-50k 3-5yrs including Toyota Ts) 100k as the benchmark for the first coolant change is too high. That has to be the outer limit of useful life of coolant, but I suspect it lost its beneficial corrosion protection properties earlier maybe at 60-75k. As coolant ages chemical composition changes along with its corrosion inhibiting properties, which is when weaker components start to sacrafice- like you see above.
That is what I said, change the coolant every 2yrs, just a drain and fill, and you can use whatever coolant you want, whatever heater "T"s you want, whatever you want, just drain and fill with pre-mixed every 2yrs and live your life.
When switching coolant types make sure you flush the cooling system first, then use whatever cheap coolant you want. No need to spend $20/gal on coolant, $8/gal coolant will be perfectly fine.
I use Prestone Universal 50/50 because it is cheap and it works perfect in anything and I can get it anywhere, the gas station, the grocery store...so if I ever need to top off for any reason and I'm on a trip there is no need to search, wait for the dealer to open...pull into anywhere and buy a gallon. Done.
K-eep
I-t
S-imple
S-tupid
Always remember to KISS.
