Heater T's the $1 version

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Didn’t early 80s have aluminum heads and copper/brass radiators? :eek:
 
Didn’t early 80s have aluminum heads and copper/brass radiators? :eek:

I do not know, but I do know that my Land Rover had a all aluminum engine and a brass/copper radiator.
The radiator was original right up to 250k when I sold her.
 
Didn’t early 80s have aluminum heads and copper/brass radiators? :eek:
you are correct. brass core tubes and cooper cooling fins. I have in my garage paid $350 because for some confusion people think that old cooper/brass 3row was better cooling agent than aluminium 2row - had to switch it back to aluminium my LX450 was overheating , but that another topic.
 
you are correct. brass core tubes and cooper cooling fins. I have in my garage paid $350 because for some confusion people think that old cooper/brass 3row was better cooling agent than aluminium 2row - had to switch it back to aluminium my LX450 was overheating , but that another topic.

Aluminum cools better than copper/brass, aluminum radiators use wider tubes which transfer more heat to the cooling fins, also a thinner radiator allows for better air flow which removes more heat.
If the vehicle was designed for a aluminum radiator then installing a copper/brass one will not take advantage of the vehicles air flow design and you may experience overheating issues.
 
he wanted a galvanic process explanation relating to copper and aluminum and the solder. I want my 5 seconds back.
 
just info for those who care.
View attachment 1595880

Could you give a quick explanation of this table? If you are reading the bottom portion, almost nothing is an issue. If you read the top portion, EVERYTHING is an issue. In the circumstances we are discussing here, is the aluminum the contact metal, or the corroding metal? How does the fact that they are not in DIRECT contact affect the outcome?
 
Didn’t early 80s have aluminum heads and copper/brass radiators? :eek:

I thought early 80's had the 3FE which was the last incarnation of an Iron block & head, 7 main bearing pushrod inline six...

I could be wrong as I never stuck a magnet to the head on my 92, but it looked like cast iron.

The 4.0 was a very simple engine when compared with the 4.5. Both of those 80 engines had pesky heater hose problems at mature ages too, & they were considerably harder to get to than our plastic T's IIRC.
 
The topic is dead really as everyone agrees but they don’t realise it yet. I am more amazed that @Spike555 got 250k out of a Land Rover product.

It wasn't easy!! LOL!!!

I was the 2nd owner, I followed my maintence scheduale (the same one I use for everything since the dawn of time) and that truck never once let me down.
I started having electrical issues and the body mounts were so rusted that I didn't feel safe driving my kids around.
So I sold it to another Land Rover guy who wanted a parts truc, I sold him the accessories I had (rood rack, winch bumper, steel wheels, rear ladder...) and he drove them all home still attached to my truck.
The interior was perfect, the leather was perfect, the sunroof leaked, it got bad MPG, I ran a hotter t-stat so in the winter you could drive naked and still sweat...a lot of great memories with that old girl.
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Huh, I would have liked to see what Phil had to say, especially in a thread he started, even if the thread veers off topic on occasion...

Sadly discrimination is everywhere....
 
I thought early 80's had the 3FE which was the last incarnation of an Iron block & head, 7 main bearing pushrod inline six...

I could be wrong as I never stuck a magnet to the head on my 92, but it looked like cast iron.

The 4.0 was a very simple engine when compared with the 4.5. Both of those 80 engines had pesky heater hose problems at mature ages too, & they were considerably harder to get to than our plastic T's IIRC.

I meant the early 1FZ. 93-94.
 
Could you give a quick explanation of this table? If you are reading the bottom portion, almost nothing is an issue. If you read the top portion, EVERYTHING is an issue. In the circumstances we are discussing here, is the aluminum the contact metal, or the corroding metal? How does the fact that they are not in DIRECT contact affect the outcome?
from the top is a noble metal like Cu from the side that is the metal that Cu will destroy . If you even seen cooper roofs on the building it is shiny at first and then over a short time it will build this green oxidation this green (slime) will kill Aluminium and other metals. well if you like cooper T then so be it.
 
I will try and compress this thread

Plastic Heater Tee’s are susceptible to break and need replacing with age
A cheap and longer solution is to use copper( or other metal)
Does copper cause corrosion in the system( and cast iron)
Yes
Does Regular coolant changes inhibit this from happening
Yes
Sorted
 
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I will try and compress this thread

Plastic Heater Tee’s are susceptible to break and need replacing with age
A cheap and longer solution is to use copper
Does copper cause corrosion in the system
Yes
Does Regular coolant changes inhibit this from happening
Yes
Sorted

And another option is to find aftermarket plated steel T's made by four season. They are less than the cost of plastic, & more expensive than copper plumbing parts....

image.jpeg
 
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