Heater T blew

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I have been ignoring the possibility of my heater T breaking, but after reading this and being at 195k miles, I need to change mine out. Sorry for your trouble!
 
After baselining my rig and getting a few mods done to close out phase 1/1.5, I am seeing quite a bit lately with these heater hose Ts. Looks to be another one of those things we should be getting done as these rigs age en masse :(:wrench:
 
Pink is mandatory in 2004 and newer btw.

Glad you made it home. Hopefully this will serve as a reminder to someone to change them as PM. Very easy to do.
 
Added some water from our reverse osmosis system so that should be fine. I noticed some dripping under chassis and I think that's from the spilled coolant on the engine.

I'll keep an eye on it but temps are normal this morning.

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Pink is mandatory in 2004 and newer btw.

Glad you made it home. Hopefully this will serve as a reminder to someone to change them as PM. Very easy to do.
"Mandatory" Is there a difference in metals, plastics or rubbers in cooling systems after 2003?
It's my understanding 06-07 have plastic intake manifold, but that's the only material change I'm aware of, but I'm no expert.

I agree PM is so very important. I found it interesting OP stated he saw corrosion (battery acid like substance) on T before failure. Makes me wonder if discoloration may show up before even corrosive build-up, this maybe and early warning. I've noticed discoloration on plastic top of radiators as well, in poorly maintained 100's. Corrosion in cooling system is also a sign of improper PM i.e. tab water, wrong mixture, or not flushing.
 
Added some water from our reverse osmosis system so that should be fine. I noticed some dripping under chassis and I think that's from the spilled coolant on the engine.

I'll keep an eye on it but temps are normal this morning.
Make sure to check reservoir, topping to cold mark each morning. After a few days it should hold the level as air is pulled from system. Keep in mind, colder mornings it will be lower than hotter mornings. So be mind fully of outside temp.

Edit: Mornings being after 8 hour cold down.
 
Thank you ALL for your responses! I has been invaluable.
 
"Mandatory" Is there a difference in metals, plastics or rubbers in cooling systems after 2003?
It's my understanding 06-07 have plastic intake manifold, but that's the only material change I'm aware of, but I'm no expert.

I suppose I misspoke with mandatory, but Toyota recommends it and that is what comes from the factory when purchased new. They changed in 2003 or 2004, I forget. IMO, I don't see why someone would put in the older type if it wasn't supposed to be there. It doesn't have to be Toyota brand either, I have used this before Amazon.com: Zerex 675130 Asian Vehicle Anitfreeze / Coolant - Gallon: Automotive So the cost is about the same and can be had at your local auto parts store.

Attached is from the 2004 FSM

Snap 2016-02-16 at 10.16.15.webp
 
I suppose I misspoke with mandatory, but Toyota recommends it and that is what comes from the factory when purchased new. They changed in 2003 or 2004, I forget. IMO, I don't see why someone would put in the older type if it wasn't supposed to be there. It doesn't have to be Toyota brand either, I have used this before Amazon.com: Zerex 675130 Asian Vehicle Anitfreeze / Coolant - Gallon: Automotive So the cost is about the same and can be had at your local auto parts store.

Attached is from the 2004 FSM
Thanks for clarifying.

I'm a big proponent for OEM with factory recommended type. But I am considering switch to Pink SSL when I do my next WP. As it's my understanding it does not have silicates. But I'll make sure all Red LL is out first as it does have silicate in the formula, which would be counterproductive to mix IMHO.
 
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Wow, I didn't know you could order coolant online. Last time I tried to buy coolant through my favorite online dealer they wouldn't ship coolant.

They also have Toyota stuff available through Amazon.

$34 for full strength Red
$25 for pre mixed Pink

At 16 quarts for a full flush that would be ~$70 for 2 gallons of red and 2 gallons of DI water or $100 for 4 gallons of SLL pink.

Using Zerex pre-mix stuff it'd be $60.

Decisions, decisions...

Thanks bucfl for the motivation to get this done! I've had OEM T's hanigng out in my toolbox for 2 years waiting to go in. I'll try to tackle it soon now.
 
WOW I've not checked price in a while, talk about inflation.

CARQUEST is now $28 full strength Red (up from ~$15)
 
Funny, I just got quote from Dealer $27.72 full strength Red. Dealer lowest quote on street, now that's a switch.
 

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