Heater radiator replacement for preventative maintenance? (2 Viewers)

[cahill]

I am about to dig into refreshing the AC system and wanted to get some thoughts on replacing the front heater radiator while I was at it since the a/c system has been discharged. I don't see a lot of posts on issues with the heater radiator leaking or leaking from the pipes. Most posts regarding the heater are the rear heater delete threads. There are a few posts about the front heater radiator but doesn't seem to me to be a frequent problem. The o-rings are NLA from what I read yesterday in my research. I thinks some people have said the heater radiator is NLA too, but don't quote me on that. I am inclined to leave it alone since it is working fine and not leaking, but it is 28 years old.

Thoughts?

 

[Marco Lau]

its called CONDENSER

 

[cahill]

its called CONDENSER

I probably wasn't very clear in my post - I will be replacing the components including the the condenser as part of the AC system work, but was asking if anyone would also dig into replacing the heater radiator since it is deep in the dash and removal of the heater radiator involves removing the condenser of the a/c system (some seem to have done the heater radiator without opening the AC system, but it is tight work and I figure it would be better to do it with the AC sytem opened already if I was going to do it at all.

 

[baldilocks]

Replacing the heater radiator is a huge job and not something you want to do unless you absolutely need to.

The AC condenser is much easier to replace. I’ve got a 96 torn apart and have the condenser out now and did buy a new one. These are NLA from Toyota and I was unable find a Denso condenser anywhere so I bought a Nissen’s brand condenser. It came full of compressed air (maybe nitrogen). I’m not sure why. This unit is the same height and width as my original condenser but about 1/2” thinner. So I went back online and did find the correct denso condenser available at Summit Racing for like $179. I think I’ll just stick with this aftermarket unit. Nissen’s is a Danish company with a good reputation and is an OE supplier to many auto makers.

 

[cahill]

Replacing the heater radiator is a huge job and not something you want to do unless you absolutely need to.

Yeah, that was my thought too, but just making sure I wasn't missing something. Thanks.

 

[Tyland Cruiser]

I probably wasn't very clear in my post - I will be replacing the components including the the condenser as part of the AC system work, but was asking if anyone would also dig into replacing the heater radiator since it is deep in the dash and removal of the heater radiator involves removing the condenser of the a/c system (some seem to have done the heater radiator without opening the AC system, but it is tight work and I figure it would be better to do it with the AC sytem opened already if I was going to do it at all.

View attachment 3902663

A new Toyota heater core (radiator) is available through IMPEX Japan for about $150 plus shipping. I just received one a couple of weeks ago because my heater stopped blowing hot or even warm air. Ultimately, was able to have the heater core blown out without damaging it and cleared the blockage. Its now working great, so I'll add this to my spare parts shelf. You can also get the AC Evaporator from IMPEX for about $210 plus shipping.

 

[60 toy ota]

its called CONDENSER

I probably wasn't very clear in my post

Nah man you were perfectly clear you're just polite

 

[bug616]

Replacing the heater radiator is a huge job and not something you want to do unless you absolutely need to.

The AC condenser is much easier to replace. I’ve got a 96 torn apart and have the condenser out now and did buy a new one. These are NLA from Toyota and I was unable find a Denso condenser anywhere so I bought a Nissen’s brand condenser. It came full of compressed air (maybe nitrogen). I’m not sure why. This unit is the same height and width as my original condenser but about 1/2” thinner. So I went back online and did find the correct denso condenser available at Summit Racing for like $179. I think I’ll just stick with this aftermarket unit. Nissen’s is a Danish company with a good reputation and is an OE supplier to many auto makers.

They come full of compressed air to show there are no leaks. At least that is what I was told!

 

[OGBeno]

Replacing the heater radiator is a huge job and not something you want to do unless you absolutely need to.

The AC condenser is much easier to replace. I’ve got a 96 torn apart and have the condenser out now and did buy a new one. These are NLA from Toyota and I was unable find a Denso condenser anywhere so I bought a Nissen’s brand condenser. It came full of compressed air (maybe nitrogen). I’m not sure why. This unit is the same height and width as my original condenser but about 1/2” thinner. So I went back online and did find the correct denso condenser available at Summit Racing for like $179. I think I’ll just stick with this aftermarket unit. Nissen’s is a Danish company with a good reputation and is an OE supplier to many auto makers.

OEM condenser is **not discontinued**. Readily available.

 

[cahill]

A new Toyota heater core (radiator) is available through IMPEX Japan for about $150 plus shipping. I just received one a couple of weeks ago because my heater stopped blowing hot or even warm air. Ultimately, was able to have the heater core blown out without damaging it and cleared the blockage. Its now working great, so I'll add this to my spare parts shelf. You can also get the AC Evaporator from IMPEX for about $210 plus shipping.

View attachment 3903051

I am not thinking I'll dig that deep unless I end up having issues with the heater down the road. Just in case I do end up doing this at some point, did the new radiator come with O-rings? Did you take your original radiator out to flush it or was it left in place when you cleared the blockage? If you took the old one out to flush, did you replace the o-rings? Asking because I thought I read a thread that someone had issues finding the o-rings, but don't quote me on that . I have read too many threads and half the time I can't keep them straight.

 

[baldilocks]

OEM condenser is **not discontinued**. Readily available.

What’s the part number?

 

[duece71]

Condenser is out front in front of the the engine radiator and the Evaporator is behind/inside the dash…..correct??? The evaporator has the expansion valve which should also be replaced if replacing the evaporator. Just did all of this last summer.

 

[OGBeno]

What’s the part number?

Not sure why I need to do this work for you. You can easily call a parts professional and figure this out.

9 available in the US.

 

[baldilocks]

Not sure why I need to do this work for you. You can easily call a parts professional and figure this out.

9 available in the US.

View attachment 3904568

Because you have posted part numbers many times up to recent times. Not sure why you can’t do it this time?

 

[Tyland Cruiser]

I am not thinking I'll dig that deep unless I end up having issues with the heater down the road. Just in case I do end up doing this at some point, did the new radiator come with O-rings? Did you take your original radiator out to flush it or was it left in place when you cleared the blockage? If you took the old one out to flush, did you replace the o-rings? Asking because I thought I read a thread that someone had issues finding the o-rings, but don't quote me on that . I have read too many threads and half the time I can't keep them straight.

The heater core (radiator) did not come with o rings and I am not aware of o rings being necessary. I don't see o rings in any of the parts diagrams for the heater core. Thankfully, flush was done with it in place.

Here's a thread with lots of photos showing what a PITA replacing the heater core is:

Heater Core Replacement-Pictures and How To - https://forum.ih8mud.com/threads/heater-core-replacement-pictures-and-how-to.1192730/

Here's a photo of a heater core from an 80 showing how the pipes are connected.

 

[cahill]

Thanks, that makes sense. I must have been reading another thread and got the o-ring thing mixed up.

 

[cahill]

Found one of the threads I had been reading - '94 heater core R/R - done - https://forum.ih8mud.com/threads/94-heater-core-r-r-done.222486/page-3 . It is for a 1994 80 series and mentions O-rings. Maybe the earlier years with a different dash are different

Well, it's five years later, and my dash is apart once again. The o-ring leaked, the replacement used unit I purchased from cruiserparts.net isn't holding pressure, and I am sorely tempted to either solder the whole thing or do the RTV-and-hose routine as per Rimmeh: Heater Core O-Ring Backup Seal

The heater core (87107-60130) and the inlet pipe (87248-60430) are still available from Toyota, the o-ring and clip still aren't, and the complete unit (87150-60330) is no longer available. As beno always points out, don't cheap out and buy the parts you think you will need while you still can.

Just an update for anyone tempted to take a shortcut. The good news is that it took me only two hours to rip the dash apart and confirm that the o-ring was the culprit.

 

[Tyland Cruiser]

Found one of the threads I had been reading - '94 heater core R/R - done - https://forum.ih8mud.com/threads/94-heater-core-r-r-done.222486/page-3 . It is for a 1994 80 series and mentions O-rings. Maybe the earlier years with a different dash are different

Thanks for sharing. Yeah, it looks like Toyota switched to soldered pipe connections in the later 80s. That older connection set up looks like a nightmare.

 

[NeverFinis]

There is an o-ring if you have this type of heater.

 

[Kernal]

One thought if working on a heater core pipe that has that O-ring connection, go ahead and replace the O-ring but then over that connection maybe use a GATES PowerGrip SB clamp (heat shrink band) over it ie: for extra insurance against future leaks from the O-ring. The steel clamp (in the red circle above) may still fit (snugly) over all of it once the heat shrink clamp is shrunk down. If that is too thick a section of commercial grade adhesive lined heat shrink tubing might work (over the connection). Haven't done this repair myself but will consider those options if I do.

FWIW