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Ah yeah, Remflex gaskets are thicker. I must have missed that somewhere in the thread. I think a quick eyeball check on how the half-holes are lining up is all that's needed. Not quite there yet? Add another gasket. Already there? Leave it alone.Its more a case of a stock gasket vs the remflex gasket. If you are using the stock thinner gaskets then 2 gaskets and the plate is probably right. The reflex i thicker. I have a photo I can post from my phone later.
In my photo the remflex gasket before it’s torqued is easily 4x the thickness of the block off plate.So heat diffuser (I guess I will call it) and the block off plate are the same thickness. Yes the Reflex I'm sure are thicker. but double? I have old stock smashed gaskets not sure if that will help me.
I guess thinking about it. the "door: would just stop on the block off plate. Any risks there?What is the best way to trim the rotating door inside the manifold? I feel anyway you do it metal will be in there, I would like to avoid that.
Somebody on here had the holes for the shaft threaded and stuck some tapered plugs in there. One of my longer term projects is to have a manifold set machined to perfection, and part of that will be tapping those holes and installing plugs. I think if you want to get rid of the heat riser functionality the best solution is to completely get rid of the whole thing - which of course leads to other problems that need solving, like two giant holes in the side of the exhaust manifold.You can 'lock' the flap in the open position with the block off plate, but if you want the least exhaust restriction, best to remove the flap, but then you will have to weld up the hole left by the shaft the flap attaches to, as that falls out when the flap is removed.
Some have tapped for pipe plugs
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exhaust manifold leak at the heat riser bushings
forum.ih8mud.com
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How does one "lock" it open? Is the blade just riveted on the shaft? looks like it, but not for sure.You can 'lock' the flap in the open position with the block off plate, but if you want the least exhaust restriction, best to remove the flap, but then you will have to weld up the hole left by the shaft the flap attaches to, as that falls out when the flap is removed.
Some have tapped for pipe plugs
![]()
exhaust manifold leak at the heat riser bushings
forum.ih8mud.com
![]()
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Rotate it to the open position and hold it there while you install the block off plate and bolt the two halves together. The plate restricts the flap's movement so it can never go "closed" again.How does one "lock" it open? Is the blade just riveted on the shaft? looks like it, but not for sure.
You can 'lock' the flap in the open position with the block off plate, but if you want the least exhaust restriction, best to remove the flap, but then you will have to weld up the hole left by the shaft the flap attaches to, as that falls out when the flap is removed.
Some have tapped for pipe plugs
![]()
exhaust manifold leak at the heat riser bushings
forum.ih8mud.com
![]()
![]()
As @Spike Strip puts it often , he is using modern materials with a purist based mindset approach philosophy….
How does one "lock" it open? Is the blade just riveted on the shaft? looks like it, but not for sure.
Rotate it to the open position and hold it there while you install the block off plate and bolt the two halves together. The plate restricts the flap's movement so it can never go "closed" again.
Its seems that what I rotate it "open" with spring at max tension. It almost blocks the path more or the same as it sits at rest. I could be off.Rotate it to the open position and hold it there while you install the block off plate and bolt the two halves together. The plate restricts the flap's movement so it can never go "closed" again.
So heat diffuser (I guess I will call it) and the block off plate are the same thickness. Yes the Reflex I'm sure are thicker. but double? I have old stock smashed gaskets not sure if that will help me.
When I fixed mine big Exhaust leaking coming from shaft bushings of flap. So I completely removed flap and shaft. I followed the lead of post #16 in this thread.Its seems that what I rotate it "open" with spring at max tension. It almost blocks the path more or the same as it sits at rest. I could be off.
How exactly do you remove that shaft? I'm an idiot so more detail the better.When I fixed mine big Exhaust leaking coming from shaft bushings of flap. So I completely removed flap and shaft. I followed the lead of post #16 in this thread.
Mine not as elegant but has worked great So far. No more Exhaust leak![]()
exhaust manifold leak at the heat riser bushings
forum.ih8mud.com
![]()
If I remember, once I removed the flapper off, the shaft on mine pretty much fell out. Mine was leaking pretty bad from both bushings on either end of shaft. I do remember I had to cut the flapper off shaft for shaft to come out and the spring controller on the one end of the shaft (don’t know technical name) had to be removed too. I don’t remember it being difficult. Sorry if none of this helps, my Technical Jargon is seriously lacking.How exactly do you remove that shaft? I'm an idiot so more detail the better.
And to remove the Flapper, cut the welds?If I remember, once I removed the flapper off, the shaft on mine pretty much fell out. Mine was leaking pretty bad from both bushings on either end of shaft. I do remember I had to cut the flapper off shaft for shaft to come out and the spring controller on the one end of the shaft (don’t know technical name) had to be removed too. I don’t remember it being difficult. Sorry if none of this helps, my Technical Jargon is seriously lacking.
Yes , I used dremel with a cut off blade because of space.And to remove the Flapper, cut the welds?