If you're going to weld it, steel plugs.
You can Braze Brass to cast iron but it's tricky. Gotta have skilz
You can Braze Brass to cast iron but it's tricky. Gotta have skilz
Heat riser Block off plate (1 Viewer)
- Thread starter LandoNick
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With a NPT tap and a NPT brass plug or pipe plug, just hand tight would seal it from an exhaust leak? I have a JimC plug on my EGR block of and I have zero issue with not sealant on it. I would think maybe with the temperature swing from hot to cold would loosen it. But I don't have that issue with the EGR plug. Like how tight do I need to tighten these plugs.
How and where does one cut this? Do I have to remove it and put it back in?
Thanks dude!
Dan
If you're asking about the heat-riser flap, cut it close to the shaft it's attached to. Don't need to remove if you have something that can cut the flap in-place, like a Dremel.
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Is it just assumed in all of this that the heat riser deflector has been removed? I currently have a leak coming out of, either the gaskets between the exhaust and intake or it's leaking out the heat riser hole on the side. Soon to find out. But while I'm in there I want to know if I should be planning to remove the heat riser and replace it with the block off plate being discussed.
And @LandoNick I read this whole thread and didn't come away with a straight answer to your question. 1 gasket or 2? Seems equally divided.
And @LandoNick I read this whole thread and didn't come away with a straight answer to your question. 1 gasket or 2? Seems equally divided.
I used two gaskets because I had a crack in my intake. One between block off plate and intake to seal that, then second gasket between exhaust manifold and block off plate to seal exhaust. I also completely removed heat riser plate assembly. I had a pretty sizable leak coming out from hole closest to firewall.
So if you have a crack in your intake ( causing vacuum leak) you need two gaskets if your intake is fine then one gasket should be fine. That’s my take on this.
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Thanks for the response. Your solution/s are what I've inferred from this and a couple other sources.. It feels like the leak is coming from the same place, the heat riser hole on the firewall side. Did you ever get the tap and plug to work? That seems to be the preferred solution, just wondering if yours ever stayed in place, and if so what you did differently?
cheezypoof
SILVER Star
Mine was also leaking on the firewall side so I completely removed the deflector flap & shaft, and used one gasket since the intake was fine. I asked the machine shop to plug the holes while they had it.
I used 2 gaskets and had the holes from the flap bar in my manifold professionally welded.
So my solution was less elegant and a little more hillbilly than getting the hole tapped and adding a plug. I didn’t need to get the intake and exhaust manifolds machined so I did this. If you look close you can see bolt and nut holding a 1/4 inch thick piece of flat bar I drilled a 1/2 inch hole in that. When the exhaust manifold was off 60 I got a 1/2 Stainless steel bolt and used that to hold flat bar against manifold. If I remember correctly the inside has a recessed hole so I found stainless steel washers to fill recess to eliminate as much possibility for leak. After tightening down I put a small booger weld on flat bar next to nut to keep from loosening. Hasn’t leaked since and has been about a year. Maybe not the correct solution but worked with what I had at the time.
Hope all this made since.
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Whoa! Love it! Interesting solution. I might have added a piece of gasket material in between but it sure looks like it's working! And beautiful manifold! Love the colors. Makes it look so clean! Thanks again for sharing. I'll have mine off next week and I'm hoping it's just the heat riser hole and not cracked anywhere.
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Also, I'm jealous of the smog delete. California makes it challenging to own a 60. 1 mile of vacuum hoses.
I did think of that, adding a small piece of gasket but it didn’t occur to me till after having it all back together. It’s so quiet compared to before I wasn’t going to mess with it again.
My crack could be seen be just taking off the carburetor off and looking down into the intake. Once I removed I could see daylight through the crack. So new that was problem needing fixed.
I don’t miss living in California ( spent a couple years in San Diego). It is nice living somewhere that has no emission inspection and traffic. When I got my 60 took it to BMV and all they did was ask to see insurance and verify Vin #. That simple.
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I'm fixing this flange leak right now. How does that fat steel gasket fit in the mix?!This is absolutely @Seth S and @Spike Strip area of intense experience from a life long oppressive regime out in the CA. Emissions packagedestination market region
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Both have helped me tackle and then update the related OEM japan spec. Special Service parts now a staple main stay from
The NON-USA far-away …
1/75 -1987 FJ40 / FJ60 Exhaust Down PIPE Repair Kit #1 OEM TOYOTA Genuine Parts FJ60 2F Engine Updated / Upgraded Exhaust Manifold to Front Down Pipe Gasket and Special Unique Hardware TORX STuds and Locking Flange Nuts - VintageTEqParts.com
OEM TOYOTA Genuine Parts FJ60 2F Engine Updated / Upgraded Exhaust Manifold to Front Down Pipe Gasket and Special Unique...vintageteqparts.com
Carbon Steel 2F Exhaust Manifold Flange Down PIPE KIT 1/75 -1987 FJ40 FJ60 FJ55 OEM TOYOTA Genuine Parts Updated Upgraded Special Unique Hardware TORX STuds and Locking Flange Nuts ( 3-BOLT FLANGE WATER JETTED IN-HOUSE ) - VintageTEqParts.com
OEM TOYOTA Genuine Parts FJ60 2F Engine Updated / Upgraded Exhaust Manifold to Front Down Pipe Gasket and Special...vintageteqparts.com
As @Spike Strip puts it often , he is using modern materials with a purist based mindset approach philosophy….
Not sure what you're asking here, but if you're referring to the thing with the three-holes in it, that's an upgraded replacement Stainless Steel flange for the one that's welded to the top of the downpipe, that bolts to the underside of the exhaust manifold.
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Ahhh, a replacement... Okay, that makes perfect sense, thanks for the explanation. I was trying to visualize how it fit in between the existing flange and the manifold as a solution for a leak. I have the donut gasket. Thanks.
i have the Down pipe to manifold in stainless steel now
the other end the MUD SMOG CZAR shows above to B pipe ore Converter is IN Reproduction now in Stainless Steel also
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The Evolution of the 3-Bolt FLANGE 2F Engine Exhaust Manifold Front Down Pipe Has Taken one Giant Leap to .304 Stainless Steel and 10mm THICK ! - VintageTEqParts.com
- The Evolution of the 3-Bolt FLANGE 2F Engine - Exhaust Manifold Front Down Pipe Has Taken one...
vintageteqparts.com
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@Living in the Past
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Last question on this topic and a wrap up!. What type of steel and what gauge/thickness has everyone used for the riser block plate?
I always appreciate when someone assembles ALL of the information learned from multiple conversations in one place. So here goes:
-The heat riser is a known point of failure in the exhaust manifold. The press-in bushing/bearing on the fire wall side of the manifold is what leaks. The general consensus is to simply remove the heat riser mechanism entirely. Use a dremel to cut out the plates and the rod of the heat riser.
-The best and longest lasting method for filling the resulting holes on either side of the manifold is to tap(thread) and plug with a threaded plug. A spot weld to prevent the plug from coming loose is an option. Welding a plug in to both ends is an option but requires a skilled knowledgable welder to weld cast iron.
-You want to replace the heat riser with a metal plate that sits between the exhaust and intake manifolds. This plate will prevent the intake manifold from cracking by getting overheated, but still allow the transfer of heat. The intake is made of aluminum. Exhaust is made of cast iron.
-There is no air or exhaust that transfers between the intake and exhaust manifold. The reason for the connection between the two is to transfer heat. If the air coming in to the intake manifold is too cold, especially when starting the engine, the gas won't aspirate with the air making it harder to fire.
-It is a common issue for the base of the intake manifold to crack because of the overheating previously mentioned. If this is the case, then, when you are installing the metal plate between the two manifolds you put a gasket on BOTH sides of the metal plate to seal top and bottom. If the intake is not cracked, then a gasket between the exhaust manifold and the plate is the only one you need.
Separately, but also part of the exhaust leak journey... The flange connection at the bottom of the exhaust manifold where it connects to the exhaust pipe takes a donut style gasket. There is no other gasket, meaning no reflex or cutout gasket that fits there. There is a cutout gasket for the EGR down tube. And obviously a single gasket for both manifolds where they connect to the head.
Other learnings. If you're replacing the studs on the manifold use anti-seize so you can get them out next time.
