Ok, cleaning the block. Been using scotchbrite red pads, brake cleaner and elbow grease. What’s the consensus on using a soft brass brush? Here where I am so far. Thanks all.
Head gasket replacement? (1 Viewer)
- Thread starter Scrapedknuckles
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Go for it
I got real OCD about removing the left over gasket on the block. I was told to stick with scotchbrite pad and brake cleaner as you have done. Personally the block looks good to go from here but it's hard to tell without actually feeling it.
I did use a razor blade on some parts and that was helpful.
I did use a razor blade on some parts and that was helpful.
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Throw everything you’ve ever used in the past away and then get these...
You’re welcome
You’re welcome
Since the brass bristles on you're brush are softer hardness wise, then the cast iron block is, you'll have no problems.
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Nope... it’s plastic, doesn’t harm the metal. It’s even safe for the aluminum. Super easy to use. You’ll never use a gasket scraper again. You basically just use the same motions you would when buffing you’re car... just on a smaller scale.
Aren't the Roloc bristles embedded with abrasive grit? This one says 120 for instance - is that a grit, or are you positive it's just plastic doing the work? I have also heard they're murder on aluminum in the wrong hands, as they easily create high and low spots. I'd use a slab of marble and sandpaper if I'm correct these are not "just" plastic. To the OP - you are on Cast Iron which is way more forgiving than an aluminum block or head so you can be more aggressive. But I'd find a slab of marble from a counter company - they give away scrap chunks. You'll need to pull those two hollow guide pins, of course but don't let that hold you back.
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I’m sure you could get carried away and burn up aluminum, but it’s really not as difficult as you’re imagining. Literally takes a few seconds and a light touch to clean gasket grime off. You’re not on any one spot long enough to damage anything.
I actually picked up this tip at @zacksters machine shop in Amarillo. It’s what he uses daily for the job. He’s a professional race engine builder. If he says it’s okay, that’s good enough for me.
I’m sure you could get carried away and burn up aluminum, but it’s really not as difficult as you’re imagining. Literally takes a few seconds and a light touch to clean gasket grime off. You’re not on any one spot long enough to damage anything.
I actually picked up this tip at @zacksters machine shop in Amarillo. It’s what he uses daily for the job. He’s a professional race engine builder. If he says it’s okay, that’s good enough for me.
I've been using the 'white' 2" ones on mine. They aren't very aggressive at all. No fear of creating low spots provided you use moderate pressure and keep the disc moving. I even used them 'lightly' on the aluminum head. IF you can buff out paint without burning it up or going through it...then you can use these (same principle).
I'm too old to use scotchbrite pads to clean up an entire engine deck. I need to get done.
Exactly right. They ARE embedded with an abrasive. However the plastic bristles are quite flexible and you'd have to really misuse the cup to get yourself into trouble. Aluminum of course...requires a bit more care. But I DO recommend they be used with a tool that is variable speed.
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Couldn’t have said it better myself. It also helps to have a good compressor if you’re using air tools. This one really sucks the gas.
razor blades do better than a brush
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Be careful when screwing on the Roloc the screw is delicate and easily breaks.
I was a dunce and used steel wool to get mine cleaned up once I thought the Scotch Brite pads had done as good of a job as they were going to do. About halfway through doing a sweet job with the steel wool, I realized that I was probably leaving little bits of steel in the cylinders. Oops.... I did my best to suck it all out with a strong shop vac and spent extra time carefully cleaning the piston rings and the cylinder walls as I moved the motor by hand.
That was 25,000 miles ago and I still don't use any oil and the truck runs pretty much the same as it did when I buttoned it all back up.
I wouldn't use a brush or the steel wool again, but you probably aren't f-ed if you already did.
That was 25,000 miles ago and I still don't use any oil and the truck runs pretty much the same as it did when I buttoned it all back up.
I wouldn't use a brush or the steel wool again, but you probably aren't f-ed if you already did.
