HDJ81 Died (1 Viewer)

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I posted this in arnott1t's belt failure thread as well...

In my first 1HD-T, I got it from Japan at 115,000km, and it had a sticker indicating a belt change just before 100,000km. So I did it again just before 200,000km. When I was lining up the marks there was a couple paint pen dabs that were in a weird place, like one tooth from the notch on the pulley. Made me get extra diligent about getting everything lined up properly and turned it over by hand several times before putting the cover back on and starting it. Just chalked it up to a random bit of weirdness that there was other match marks.

Fast forward to pulling the head off 20,000km later because I had to do the head gasket, and what do I see but an imprint of an intake valve on each piston. Enough that you could actually just feel it with a fingernail.

My theory was that when the belt was done the first time the installer got the belt on one tooth off and actually turned it over. Probably ran like junk so he went back in and got the belt lined up properly.

Moral of my little story: I guess that the bottom ends of these things is pretty tough and not to worry about the marks on the pistons (though it seems you've got that aspect sorted out already). It went to 280,000km before the truck was (forcibly) removed from service with no other engine issues.
 
Getting to the 98% point…
  1. Head reinstalled, valve cover, etc
  2. Injectors, glow plugs, rail, etc
  3. Intake manifold
  4. Exhaust manifold, turbo, etc
  5. Timing belt et al installed, manually turned it over and it felt real nice;
  6. Fuel lines reinstalled, filter, etc;
  7. AC compressor back in place; (though mine is dead)
  8. Drained and refilled engine oil/coolant
Remaining is the air filter and associated intake hoses, vacuum hosts, etc.
 
Making great progress!
 
Moved to the "pin" thead.

Thanks and it sounds great in the video.

gb
 
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Great stuff!

I've been following along with your experience and the most recent one by arnott1 and they have been weighing on my mind as my t-belt replacement was coming up. Two additional data points to check off was pin security and time belt cover gasket condition and making sure it stayed in place on assembly.

Today I started it. Got everything removed, then went to examine the pin. Surprise...no pin. A buddy was at the shop helping and neither he nor I recall hearing or seeing anything drop out when the idler assy was removed. I forgot to look at the pin location when it was all together. So, the assumption at this point is that it has not been in there for 100,000kms, since I did the waterpump, cam oil seal, idler and spring when it was all on the shop floor. Perhaps when I was going through it 100,000kms ago and using the FSM for specs I did not realize it was missing as the FSM timing belt section makes no mention of the pin as has been mentioned by a couple folks in the last page.

About that pin: What does it do anyway? Other then be used as a locator assist for putting in the 8mm timing belt idler pulley bolt and the spring bolt of the timing belt idler?

The idler pulley can move as the hole the spring bolt goes through is oblong and without the pin triangulating there may be the possibility of some minor movement of the plate (what little the shoulder of the two bolts would allow as both are torqued to 20lbs).

Looking at the used idler assy i just removed, the plate between the idler assy and camshaft oil seal retainer (pic of the retainer I mean is on page EM-79 of the FSM) shows virtually no wear, the two bolts that go through the plate and camshaft oil seal retainer show no grooving or wear marks where the plate would be resting when everything is bolted in place.

In my brief peruse through the FSM in other sections I can not find mention of the pin. If anyone locates this section in the FSM please let me know.

Hope you don't mind this slight jack of your thread but I thought it might generate some good discussion as there has been talk of the pin.

I'm thinking I might just put it all back together without the pin again, unless someone posts up with solid info why not to.

Thanks and it sounds great in the video.

gb

The pin is nearly free…
 
The pin is nearly free…[/QUO

Yes and my 1st instinct is to put one in. Then I started looking at the timing belt idler setup. What does the pin do, in addition to acting as a locator during assembly?

Moved the main text to the pin thread.

Thanks
gb
 
One of the injector pipes is leaking at the injector, that is tonight's project.

I've had that happen to me. Only way to fix it is to order a new pipe. Basically the fitting gets permanently deformed from over tightening.

You might be lucky and have something stuck in there that's not making a good seal.
 
I've had that happen to me. Only way to fix it is to order a new pipe. Basically the fitting gets permanently deformed from over tightening.

You might be lucky and have something stuck in there that's not making a good seal.
I’m really hoping it is simply not tight enough.
 
I’m really hoping it is simply not tight enough.

They really don't need to be tightened that much to hold pressure. Take it apart and check the mating surfaces, that's your best bet instead of over tightening.
 
Sorry this happened to you and glad things are gtg after all that work you had to do. Maybe I missed this detail while reading your thread, did you ever go back to the original mechanic after this occurred and despite not really knowing the root cause, did he help you make it right?
 
Sorry this happened to you and glad things are gtg after all that work you had to do. Maybe I missed this detail while reading your thread, did you ever go back to the original mechanic after this occurred and despite not really knowing the root cause, did he help you make it right?

I did not: it was not that kind of commercial relationship and I did not believe that he was the root cause.
 

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