HDJ81 Circulation Heater Install (1 Viewer)

[PGBC]

Hi all.

I attempted to install a 'Zero Start' circulation heater this weekend without any luck. There are a few threads floating around regarding this install, which I have read, and no one seemed to have any issues with physically installing the device.

I found that it was fairly easy to remove the engine block drain using a deep 14 mm socket and a couple of extensions, once you remove the passenger side wheel.

I attempted and failed over the course of an entire weekend to get the fitting supplied with the heater to thread in to the block drain location. It seems like there is some mechanical tubing that puts my socket driver with extensions at a slight angle such that the threads won't engage. In fact, I couldn't even put the drain plug back on with my socket wrench, I had to contort my hand in order to reach the location to start the threads. I tried and failed several times to do this with the supplied fitting to no avail. I checked that the threads are the same as well.

Are there sockets that are smaller in overall diameter than others? I feel like if my socket was narrower that I might have enough wiggle room to align everything so that the threads can engage.

Any other tips or advice from others that have installed this? Is there anything else I can remove to make this easier? So far I had the wheel off, and some of the rubber skirting in the wheel well.

Thanks in advance.

PGBC

 

[torqueluvr]

There is such thing as a thin-walled socket set, that may help a little bit. I also found that clunky cheapo-brand sockets are larger in overall diameter (princess auto, or master craft from Canadian Tire if you're in Canada). The higher end lines of tools seem to have a thinner wall and are a bit smaller. It's something worth looking in to.

 

[IanB]

You can also get wobble extensions that might help. It's been a bunch of years, but the block drain is a 2 piece assembly, is it not? I can't remember if you just remove the drain plug, or the whole fitting from the oil cooler, they may be different threads and the supplied fitting may only thread into one of them.

 

[PGBC]

That's good to know. I will take my Mastercraft socket to parts store and find a skinnier one.

I do have a wobble extension but it is the socket itself that is constrained vertically between the mechanical tubing. You are correct IanB, the fitting is (2) part, I pulled them both as per an earlier thread on this install. Upon inspection of the threads, they seem to match.

I'll give this another go in a week or so once I have some time again. I'm a little bit gun shy because it took me about 8 hours to what amounted to pulling the drain plug and putting it back in again - incredibly frustrating. This is also my daily driver.

Thanks guys.

 

[IanB]

Also, these heaters have a very short cord on them from memory, and you'll need a block heater cord to reach the outside of the engine bay, meaning you'll likely permanently install one in the truck. Don't cheap out on this! Depending on the wattage version you purchased, they can draw a huge amount of power, the 1500w model kept blowing the fuse at my work's parking lot, and the cord showed signs of overheating and failing. It was a block heater cord purchased from Princess Auto that I was using.

 

[PGBC]

I did notice the cord is very short. I believe you can order a new longer cord section from the manufacturer as well. I purchased the 1500 W version as well - I live in Prince George, BC. It was -25 C last week, today is supposed to be +5 C.

Hopefully the parking lot fuse box can handle the amp draw.

 

[CruiserDreamer]

Last year I installed a zero start heater in my HDJ81. Since I had removed my ACSD I used the lower ACSD port to feed the heater and the upper port for the return. I don't remember the model name, but the heater I installed looked like this:

I had to downsize the 5/8 heater hose to fit the 3/8 (I think?) ports that go into the block.
I was concerned that the 3/8" hose would be too small, but it seems to work well. If I remember correctly, I mounted the heater off the side of the shock mount as low as I could go with out hitting the frame or starter.
To ensure I didn't get an air pocket on the return (top) line I used a molded 90" heater hose mounted directly to the top of the heater.

 

[PGBC]

Thanks CruiserDreamer. I have not yet deleted my ACSD, but I have heard of others using this port as well. I'll take a look in there, perhaps it is more accessible than the block drain.

I'm not sure what the flow rate of coolant through the heater core is when the engine is running, but I don't imagine it is so high that necking down a small portion to 3/8" would cause adverse pressure drop.

When the engine isn't running and the the coolant is being driven by convection from the heater, the effect would me negligible.

 

[Greg_B]

It's been a bunch of years, but the block drain is a 2 piece assembly, is it not? I can't remember if you just remove the drain plug, or the whole fitting from the oil cooler, they may be different threads and the supplied fitting may only thread into one of them.

Double check the above. It would be easy to pull the plug out and thing you have the two piece draincock removed. This post has a good EPC diagram and this post has a picture of the two piece draincock removed.

Not sure you saw this thread but it's a good one with lots of discussion and info (including both links above).

We had to massage the inner fender a bit when my 1500 Zerostart circulation heater was installed so it was low and attached to the shock tower in the location I wanted.

hth's
gb