Builds HDJ80 Build (1 Viewer)

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boozewz said:
Man looks super clean MSA!

You're basically doing a full frame off resto. Don't compare it to my flimsy ass paint job!

And who would have thought a diesel would require so much wiring. You're a brave man for taking on this project.

Carry on.
Click to expand...


Thanks Hamza! It's almost there.

I Don't think the wiring is really that bad. It was really a personal challenge to get that turbo light working and i'm glad I did. If I flip both boards, you won't be able to tell it's been modified. turned out really good. Wish I took a picture of it before slapping it back on.

the oil gauge issue turned out to be a cut wire in the harness going in the cab. I traced it and fixed it. It works, but I still have some issues with it's movement. I'm pretty sure it's supposed to move up when you rev up to 2200 RPM. Still trouble shooting that at the moment.

The rest of the wiring is pretty straight forward. That includes; lights, tach, voltage, speed (needs to be verified) and water temp.

This is a useful EWD for anyone with a 80 series. Found it on this forum and I think you should look at it when you need to repair or upgrade any wiring. To my surprise, the GCC 80s are also included.

http://htftp.offroadsz.com/marinhaker/programi/VSI4KO ZA TOYO/Land_Cruiser_1996_Electrical_Wiring_Diagram2.pdf


I've had the truck idle for about 10 minutes. It idles smoooooooth and is probably one of the best engine swaps I have done to date.


Luai
 
Drove the cruiser today for the first time in months!! all I can say is WOW this motor is sweet!!

It moves fast. 2nd gear launch and enough power of the line. Idles and runs smooth no noise no smoke! I wish I did this a loooong time ago. Simply amazing! It's not like it has crazy power. But with it all factory, and compared to my 1HZ that I had in it. It's a day and night difference. It goes without any issues.

Found a few loose ends we need to address

Temp gauge not working
Oil Pressure Gauge not working
Rear drive shaft has some play. Could be from the axle or T-case.
Steering leak. Probably needs air bleeding.

The biggest concern for me is EGT. I went Pre turbo. At idle, it runs at about 200 and when I floor it it spikes to 1000!! You can see the gauge flying up and it stays there. Not sure if this is normal or not.

I'm planning to do a compression test after 500KM. and see how it's doing. Everything in the motor is new. Need to take it easy on it .

Any thoughts on the EGT?

Thanks
 
Great to know she's up and running.

As for EGT, you've got a heavy foot! Hitting 1000F is normal when you step on it. Best to ease off, even if its just a touch, and you'll see EGT's come right back down.

You want to be in the 450-600F range when you're cruising on the highway, and hitting 1000F+ for a few seconds or so to overtake is fine.

Check out the numbers here:

EGT Temp Guide

Btw, did you have a pyro before you did your swap? How does it compare just for the sake of comparison?
 
Great work - very inspirational (or depressing - knowing I'll never get mine to this point! ;) )

I modified one of my Dodge Cummins Turbo Diesels and I ran a EGT probe both pre and post turbo. One to monitor what was really happening while driving (pre) and one to tell me when it was OK to shut down (post).....there was often a 300-400 degree difference between them. I used an SPA dual digital gauge, but some ran two pyro's to a single gauge with a momentary toggle switch to check between the two.
 
boozewz said:
Great to know she's up and running.

As for EGT, you've got a heavy foot! Hitting 1000F is normal when you step on it. Best to ease off, even if its just a touch, and you'll see EGT's come right back down.

You want to be in the 450-600F range when you're cruising on the highway, and hitting 1000F+ for a few seconds or so to overtake is fine.

Check out the numbers here:

EGT Temp Guide

Btw, did you have a pyro before you did your swap? How does it compare just for the sake of comparison?
Click to expand...

Thanks for the link! I didn't have one in the 1HZ. It's being rebuilt as we speak and will add a pyro to it.

NLScooby said:
Great work - very inspirational (or depressing - knowing I'll never get mine to this point! ;) )

I modified one of my Dodge Cummins Turbo Diesels and I ran a EGT probe both pre and post turbo. One to monitor what was really happening while driving (pre) and one to tell me when it was OK to shut down (post).....there was often a 300-400 degree difference between them. I used an SPA dual digital gauge, but some ran two pyro's to a single gauge with a momentary toggle switch to check between the two.
Click to expand...

Interesting solution. I have a 3" exhaust going in. Will be worth looking into when I do the exhaust swap! Thanks for posting.


Here are some random shots of the truck. It's far from done. Still need to wire accessories in the roof. Need a plug connector for 10 hot and 10 ground wires.

The beloved 5 speed and part time shifters.

14449952_10102037348225043_8390079116814861474_n_zpsyeswbn8s.jpg


2 ARB compressors mounted to a custom bracket we made that's attached the fender. One compressor for lockers. and the other for airing up the 255s

14370246_10102033099314893_6240372316029407151_n_zpsbkdgc19o.jpg


The finished product. sPOD mounted along side the 2 compressors.

14390973_10102036609660133_8196155894392543926_n_zpsamrivbmn.jpg


Inside shot of the sPOD screen. The center fridge controls were relocated down below. It's a perfect spot for the screen. Exact fit!

14440947_10102037348339813_6402871404480359163_n_zps7ecokdge.jpg


Rear JDM seats

14322289_10102021782513853_3193473334718205194_n_zpslzychzqm.jpg


Rear view. Notice the headliner. This is the one used in the base model. Non insulated. The insulator I used turned made the truck super quite. Deleted the rear AC.

14484599_10102037348115263_80364464731211371_n_zpsgb7pfzd4.jpg


Need to rewire the subfuel and get it reading properly. Wasn't working before!

14516485_10102037348160173_6552897572355336178_n_zpsoj4yunws.jpg


With a freshly rebuilt truck and drive-train. It only make sense to restart the clock!

14516437_10102037348294903_1064760274886715876_n_zpsbbi59ex5.jpg


Finally, here is a shot a grabbed after it's first drive (9KM) to be exact. Can't wait to take it to the desert and enjoy it! The factory GCC stripes are really growing on me.

14519751_10102038166150913_6217621063289985634_n_zpsex4tg0yc.jpg
 
Damn! Looking good.

Good call on the two separate compressors. Better than running the ARB twin compressor unit anyway. Found those ran really hot and you dont have any redundancy.

I always thought SPODs only worked on the JK Wranglers. Do they have a set up that does not include a touch screen for the switches? ie they work with manual switches?

Also, did you have to change the bell housing or input shaft of your gearbox to fit the new motor? I assume you're running the stock H150F that came in your 80 originally?
 
What did you use for insulator in the headliner that made the truck super quiet? I'd love to find a way to bring the interior noise level down a bit for long highway trips.
 
boozewz said:
Damn! Looking good.

Good call on the two separate compressors. Better than running the ARB twin compressor unit anyway. Found those ran really hot and you dont have any redundancy.

I always thought SPODs only worked on the JK Wranglers. Do they have a set up that does not include a touch screen for the switches? ie they work with manual switches?

Also, did you have to change the bell housing or input shaft of your gearbox to fit the new motor? I assume you're running the stock H150F that came in your 80 originally?
Click to expand...

Thanks and yes I do have the universal spods. Although, I did play with the switch placement for their universal kit. And I couldn't find anywhere I was comfortable with in the 80. What sold me on the touch screen version was a few things.

You can add another interface to the existing system which I plan to do in the rear.
You can dim the lights (Great for night camping) and or strobe.
You can Control it remotely. I've installed it before in one of my Jeeps, and I love it! It's a great kit and great quality.

I got another transmission because of gearing. the FT pulls real strong and between the H150 and 151, the only major difference is 1st gear. Since I have almost double the power with this stock motor, I decided with the taller gears in the 151, it's going to pull better. And sure enough it did.

The bellhousing I borrowed from my old 150 trans. They are interchangeable. Input shaft is also the same IIRC.

As it sits now. It has the 1HD-FT motor mated to H151 trans and split case. 4:11 gears. ARBs front and rear controlled from the factory switch. The front has some play in it. I'm planning to tear it down and go over it. I hope it's not a bent housing.

I'm also building another 80 very similarly. This one is from Dubai. But I'm converting from gas to diesel on this one.


IanB said:
What did you use for insulator in the headliner that made the truck super quiet? I'd love to find a way to bring the interior noise level down a bit for long highway trips.
Click to expand...

So I used the Dynamat and Dynaliner for everything. The body, doors inside out, Firewall inside out. Added a lot of weight to the vehicle and a little prices. But Worth the cost in my book! I can't hear the motor or anyone outside. It's crazy for 20 year old vehicle!


On the progress side of things, We got the catch-can all plumbed and fixed the oil pressure gauge problem I had. Ended up being a bad gauge. It was new but faulty so the dealer honored it.

Getting closer and closer!
 
boozewz said:
Good things.

I am interested in your ARB locker wiring with the OEM switch. I have the switch and want to do the same for my 62 when the lockers go in. Any tips or advice you can give?
Click to expand...

Yes sir! Have look at this thread

Arb air locker – factory switch integration

I ended up using relays on the passenger side wiring harness were the plug is for the 80. Was straight forward. I'm pretty sure it will be the same for your 60 if not easier. Just make sure to get good quality relays. You know our market, mostly junk.

Good luck
 
Love this build!
What size mud terrains are you running?
 
Lo2aY said:
@NLScooby Hey Thanks! 255/85R16 toyos on skinny 70 series steelies!
Click to expand...
OH - ok, now it makes sense. I picked up a set of FJ Steelies the other day with the thought of painting them or powder coating, but they are 17's! I believe I can get 255/80/17's but I would have preferred some more sidewall....
Thanks!
 
NLScooby said:
OH - ok, now it makes sense. I picked up a set of FJ Steelies the other day with the thought of painting them or powder coating, but they are 17's! I believe I can get 255/80/17's but I would have preferred some more sidewall....
Thanks!
Click to expand...

Contact @beno he can source you a set of 70 series 16" steelies.
 
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