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- #141
#billspec
Builds HDJ79 build #2: 2022 double cab with FTE
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- #142
A little thing, but I love these OEM cup holders with USB chargers, and a friend in Australia shopped me one. It didn’t have electrical parts so I am tracking them down. eBay provided the USB chargers. I need a cigarette lighter charger now…unless I just leave a bare cap.
Boujeee!
bottombracket
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- #144
CD, you know me: fancy AF!
Andrew S
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This is such a cool project! Is that dual USB charger setup a genuine Toyota part? I would like to add that to my 100 series center console.
Andrew
Andrew
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- #146
Andrew, there is an OEM part and I have not been able to track it down. It seems to be a dealer only item in Australia, and I just could not find one, even with friends on the ground there.
I used this one from eBay:
I used this one from eBay:
OE USB Quick Charger For Toyota Sienna Camry Highlander Corolla RAV4 2020-2022 | eBay
Find many great new & used options and get the best deals for OE USB Quick Charger For Toyota Sienna Camry Highlander Corolla RAV4 2020-2022 at the best online prices at eBay! Free shipping for many products!
www.ebay.com
Andrew S
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Much appreciated. I looked as well, and your cupholder appears to be an Australian market only part, it doesn't show up in any of the usual places. (toyodiy, partsouq, toyota USA) I have the part number for the OEM single USB charging port here somewhere...
Andrew S
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I think you want 85530-33020 or 85530-60030 to snap into the blank 12V cover. One has a pigtail, the other has spade terminals for the 'L' shaped plug.
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- #149
Crap. Minutes before seeing this I grabbed an 85530-42010. Guess we will see.
I love it when this happens. It really doesn't make much sense to ship it back, and eventually if you do it enough over time we can all just come to you for parts on this side of the pond.
Andrew S
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That should still fit, but it has yet another different electrical connection than the other two I found. The pigtail style is probably the lowest profile depth-wise, in case you're tight for space behind your cupholder.
Andrew
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- #152
It will be interesting to see what connectors the dash harness has….
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- #153
@Andrew S - update time!
The cigarette lighter (power outlet) arrived, and plugged right into the USB charger wires. In the next couple of weeks, I should be pulling the dash apart to put in my new harness. We will see if the dash harness has the proper connectors for this charger. It better!
The cigarette lighter (power outlet) arrived, and plugged right into the USB charger wires. In the next couple of weeks, I should be pulling the dash apart to put in my new harness. We will see if the dash harness has the proper connectors for this charger. It better!
Andrew S
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I'm glad you didn't take my advice, that's a completely different plug than the 100-series stuff. Excellent to see it worked out so far.
Andrew
Andrew
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- #155
Something fun arrived yesterday.
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- #156
So, a little bit of progress. The wiring harness that came with the truck had seen better days. I obtained a new one from a single cab HZJ79 and I can definitely say that the new style cowl harness is much more cumbersome and complicated than the old metal dash style. I cleaned up the a/c ducts, tore it all apart, and washed out as much of the fesh fesh out as I could. It’s amazing how hard it is to get rid of.
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- #157
Next on the list was figuring out wiring for the power windows and locks - the rear windows had been down since I took possession of it.
The harness that I have is for a single cab, not a double cab. There is a floor wire, which has proven absolutely impossible to find, that gives at least the right rear passenger door power. I have literally searched the entire globe for one of these. I think I finally got my hands on one from ENS in Canada, but I am still waiting to hear if they will receive it.
@Fern1109 and I took apart the right rear door and then the drivers door and traced wires:
Here’s what we got:
For the rear doors:
Window up is green positive, red negative.
Down is red positive, green negative
Lock is red positive and black negative at the door lock level.
Unlock is black positive and red negative at the door lock.
At first junction in door, red wire becomes blue with black and black wire becomes blue with white.
Unlock at the B pillar level becomes blue with white positive and blue with black negative.
Lock at the B pillar becomes blue with black positive and blue with white negative.
Window down at the B pillar is red with green positive and red with black negative.
Window up at the B pillar is red with black positive and red with green negative.
This works for both rear doors, driver and passenger.
Drivers door: old school 2 pin spade connector with red and green wires at regulator motor level.
Window down at door motor level is green positive, red negative.
Window up at driver’s door motor level is red positive, green negative.
Front passenger door: remains to be seen.
The harness that I have is for a single cab, not a double cab. There is a floor wire, which has proven absolutely impossible to find, that gives at least the right rear passenger door power. I have literally searched the entire globe for one of these. I think I finally got my hands on one from ENS in Canada, but I am still waiting to hear if they will receive it.
@Fern1109 and I took apart the right rear door and then the drivers door and traced wires:
Here’s what we got:
For the rear doors:
Window up is green positive, red negative.
Down is red positive, green negative
Lock is red positive and black negative at the door lock level.
Unlock is black positive and red negative at the door lock.
At first junction in door, red wire becomes blue with black and black wire becomes blue with white.
Unlock at the B pillar level becomes blue with white positive and blue with black negative.
Lock at the B pillar becomes blue with black positive and blue with white negative.
Window down at the B pillar is red with green positive and red with black negative.
Window up at the B pillar is red with black positive and red with green negative.
This works for both rear doors, driver and passenger.
Drivers door: old school 2 pin spade connector with red and green wires at regulator motor level.
Window down at door motor level is green positive, red negative.
Window up at driver’s door motor level is red positive, green negative.
Front passenger door: remains to be seen.
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- #158
Action shots of the diagnostics:
I learned a hot trick from Fernando; if you split the factory butyl sealant with a razor blade, you don’t make a giant mess and you can still put it back in place.
Lo and behold, look what was on the passenger rear window when we successfully rolled up the windows… The original sticker.
Fuel economy VERY POOR.
I learned a hot trick from Fernando; if you split the factory butyl sealant with a razor blade, you don’t make a giant mess and you can still put it back in place.
Lo and behold, look what was on the passenger rear window when we successfully rolled up the windows… The original sticker.
Fuel economy VERY POOR.
They absolutely love those stickers in the Middle East, they'll keep them up on vehicles as long as possible. That, and all the plastic on the seats, door cards, shifters - anywhere possible. And also the parts numbers labels on any parts they've had to replace.
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