@@@ - Harrop E-Locker on a 460 (LC Prado Kakadu trim) - https://cruiserbrothers.com/harrop-elockers/ -

[Tex68w]

Do you know what the RPM was on the high way

I want 4.88 and I have the same size tire

I'll see if I can find out.

 

[r2m]

Already installed both, front and rear ARB and re-geared!

 

[Acrad]

Too late now for me but one concern that gave me pause with ARB were all the posts I found about experiences with freeze ups in cold, icy, and snowy climates. Not saying this happens to all of them or is just some rare event but this was a consideration of mine.

 

[Washingtontaco]

Too late now for me but one concern that gave me pause with ARB were all the posts I found about experiences with freeze ups in cold, icy, and snowy climates. Not saying this happens to all of them or is just some rare event but this was a consideration of mine.

I wonder that if your compressor is under the hood mounted if that make a difference? My compressor is installed in the cargo area, clean, warm dry air.

 

[Acrad]

That was what I was reading in those reporting issue was compressor in engine bay.

 

[r2m]

I'm not sure if I can see the whole freezing up issue for either the lockers or compressors unless one is turning on the compressor and locking the diff's after setting all night and not even driving it!
I have to imagine that putting a few miles on should be sufficient for warming up the compressor under the hood and the diff's so all the fluids are not so viscous.

 

[Acrad]

Something along the lines of warm moist air from compressor condensing in low spots in the lines and potentially freezing. Just something I read but I guess frozen airlines in big rigs aren't exactly a rarity either. Like I said before I don't think common but may come down to the the installation and routing of air lines than anything else.

 

[Acrad]

Elocker showed up safely today.

I will try to paraphrase what Roark @ CB mentioned to me:

These are made by Eaton here in US. Previously ...Eaton was sending blank units to Harrop to be machined for Toyota/Lexus applications. Eaton was not producing units for “imports”, even though many Toyotas are now manufactured here. Harrop was bringing blank units from Eaton down under and machining them to work on the Toyotas, incurring additional costs in manufacturing and shipping. Eaton saw the demand and realized there is a big enough market that they now make them for a number of import applications here in US.

I will pull it out tomorrow get some pictures of it.

I probably won't get to the wiring until really early May and then hopefully I can get it installed before summer.

 

[orangefj45]

That is correct. Eaton decided over a year ago to start manufacturing lockers for Toyota’s/Lexus to add to their domestic locker range of products.
We’ve sold just shy of 800 Harrop/Eaton lockers in the past 5 years snd they’ve been EXTREMELY reliable. One of the first units we ever imported was installed in my personal 100-series cruiser ( front ) and it’s still in there snd working PERFECT every time.
We don’t just sell these parts, we also install them on customers vehicles as well as our own.
Georg @ Valley Hybrids, Cruiser Brothers & Long Range America

 

[Rednexus]

Something along the lines of warm moist air from compressor condensing in low spots in the lines and potentially freezing. Just something I read but I guess frozen airlines in big rigs aren't exactly a rarity either. Like I said before I don't think common but may come down to the the installation and routing of air lines than anything else.

I have to drain around 1-2 cups of water out of my 8-gallon shop compressor every year. It probably sees <20 hours of use per year, although much of that use is in the summer when it's rather humid here in MO. Compressing the air leaves the moisture behind inside the compressor. Moisture would be independent of air line routing, as the water would come from the atmosphere, unless a drier is installed between the compressor and the locker (presumably a ARB compressor would have one of these) However, it seems that a few miles of driving would warm up the gear oil enough to melt any ice in an air locker, but not any in the air line between the compressor and locker if it were to accumulate there.

In my personal opinion, a ripped wire is an easy trail fix (unless it rips off inside the differential), and I carry a old set of crimpers and butt splices in my off-road tool bag, in addition to a few feet of primary wire. An ARB air line would be more difficult due to the need for it to seal and not leak - a butt splice can literally be a 5-minute repair, and could be permanent and watertight if heat-shrink connectors are used.

Looking forward to your thread on getting them in, I'll be installing the Harrops in a couple of years.

 

[r2m]

I have to drain around 1-2 cups of water out of my 8-gallon shop compressor every year. It probably sees <20 hours of use per year, although much of that use is in the summer when it's rather humid here in MO. Compressing the air leaves the moisture behind inside the compressor. Moisture would be independent of air line routing, as the water would come from the atmosphere, unless a drier is installed between the compressor and the locker (presumably a ARB compressor would have one of these) However, it seems that a few miles of driving would warm up the gear oil enough to melt any ice in an air locker, but not any in the air line between the compressor and locker if it were to accumulate there.

In my personal opinion, a ripped wire is an easy trail fix (unless it rips off inside the differential), and I carry a old set of crimpers and butt splices in my off-road tool bag, in addition to a few feet of primary wire. An ARB air line would be more difficult due to the need for it to seal and not leak - a butt splice can literally be a 5-minute repair, and could be permanent and watertight if heat-shrink connectors are used.

Looking forward to your thread on getting them in, I'll be installing the Harrops in a couple of years.

My home compressor, I have a water trap between my air line to compressor so I have dry air coming out of my hose, but no type of dryer going into the tank. Just a pointless comment.
I agree that a wire is far easier to trail repair than a hose. Hopefully if anything like that happened, it would be a situation that I wouldn't be needing to lock the defective diff anyways.

 

[r2m]

Elocker showed up safely today.

I will try to paraphrase what Roark @ CB mentioned to me:

These are made by Eaton here in US. Previously ...Eaton was sending blank units to Harrop to be machined for Toyota/Lexus applications. Eaton was not producing units for “imports”, even though many Toyotas are now manufactured here. Harrop was bringing blank units from Eaton down under and machining them to work on the Toyotas, incurring additional costs in manufacturing and shipping. Eaton saw the demand and realized there is a big enough market that they now make them for a number of import applications here in US.

I will pull it out tomorrow get some pictures of it.

I probably won't get to the wiring until really early May and then hopefully I can get it installed before summer.

View attachment 2637449View attachment 2637452View attachment 2637454View attachment 2637456

The patience of a saint to wait that long!!!
I was on the edge of my seat waiting for my rig to get finished!
BUT the wait was absolutely worth it!!

 

[Acrad]

I have to drain around 1-2 cups of water out of my 8-gallon shop compressor every year. It probably sees <20 hours of use per year, although much of that use is in the summer when it's rather humid here in MO. Compressing the air leaves the moisture behind inside the compressor. Moisture would be independent of air line routing, as the water would come from the atmosphere, unless a drier is installed between the compressor and the locker (presumably a ARB compressor would have one of these) However, it seems that a few miles of driving would warm up the gear oil enough to melt any ice in an air locker, but not any in the air line between the compressor and locker if it were to accumulate there.

I was thinking perhaps a low spot in air line that could act as a water trap between compressor and diff.

 

[Acrad]

I does sound like you have to be far more careful with aftermarket elockers than air for at-speed activation. Elocker seems like you have to be basically stopped or only a 1-3MPH or you can cause damage. There aren't ECU lockouts like OEM that would prevent costly errant activation.

This being said I am going to install another switch that will be require activation to turn the system on.

I realize I wouldn't do it but if spouse or another driver turned on the single switch looking for something at speed that would not make for a good day.

Just a reference picture (not mine) but may put the other switch in my remaining used blank and the 100 switch somewhere in the other area. There is only so much area you can actually mount something there that doesn't have metal framing behind it.

Challenge as there is a curve there and ensuring the switch can sit mostly flush.


I was thinking.... going off-road one of the switches is enabled and then I am just one switch away from activation.

 

[Tastethesoup]

This being said I am going to install another switch that will be require activation to turn the system on.

I realize I wouldn't do it but if spouse or another driver turned on the single switch looking for something at speed that would not make for a good day.

Is it not possible to source one switch with a cover or safety mechanism? Then again, if it looks too much like a "fire the missiles" button, the spouse may be more tempted to smash it.

 

[r2m]

I does sound like you have to be far more careful with aftermarket elockers than air for at-speed activation. Elocker seems like you have to be basically stopped or only a 1-3MPH or you can cause damage. There aren't ECU lockouts like OEM that would prevent costly errant activation.

This being said I am going to install another switch that will be require activation to turn the system on.

I realize I wouldn't do it but if spouse or another driver turned on the single switch looking for something at speed that would not make for a good day.

Just a reference picture (not mine) but may put the other switch in my remaining used blank and the 100 switch somewhere in the other area. There is only so much area you can actually mount something there that doesn't have metal framing behind it.

Challenge as there is a curve there and ensuring the switch can sit mostly flush.


I was thinking.... going off-road one of the switches is enabled and then I am just one switch away from activation.

Also be aware of air bags. I believe there's one down there somewhere, isn't there?
And if you're planning on more accessories, you could just do one of those switch panel.
Regarding when and how to lock/unlock the diffs and even for going into 4Lo and center lock, I ALWAYS am stopped when I engage (in Neutral for shifting into 4Lo) and and when I'm through using them, especially before I get onto pavement, I always backup my rig at least 20 feet to make sure everything is unlocked. It's a habit I've picked up from many years of off roading older vehicles and it ensures I don't ever drive onto hard pavement with anything ever locked.
Old habits, hard to break, but at least I don't ever break anything else!

 

[trdcorolla]

Elocker showed up safely today.

I will try to paraphrase what Roark @ CB mentioned to me:

These are made by Eaton here in US. Previously ...Eaton was sending blank units to Harrop to be machined for Toyota/Lexus applications. Eaton was not producing units for “imports”, even though many Toyotas are now manufactured here. Harrop was bringing blank units from Eaton down under and machining them to work on the Toyotas, incurring additional costs in manufacturing and shipping. Eaton saw the demand and realized there is a big enough market that they now make them for a number of import applications here in US.

I will pull it out tomorrow get some pictures of it.

I probably won't get to the wiring until really early May and then hopefully I can get it installed before summer.

View attachment 2637449View attachment 2637452View attachment 2637454View attachment 2637456

Can you post pictures of the switch to activate the locker and any sticker it comes with?

 

[mt72]

That is correct. Eaton decided over a year ago to start manufacturing lockers for Toyota’s/Lexus to add to their domestic locker range of products.
We’ve sold just shy of 800 Harrop/Eaton lockers in the past 5 years snd they’ve been EXTREMELY reliable. One of the first units we ever imported was installed in my personal 100-series cruiser ( front ) and it’s still in there snd working PERFECT every time.
We don’t just sell these parts, we also install them on customers vehicles as well as our own.
Georg @ Valley Hybrids, Cruiser Brothers & Long Range America

Can't wait to have mine install on my Trooper

 

[Acrad]

r2M: Yeah.... I will be steering clear of the knee airbag. I thought about a switch panel but really wanted to include the old school 100 series switch too. Good use info. Thanks!

trdcorolla & Tastethesoup : picture & operation below of switch..

mt72: What year Trooper? My father still has his '93 he bought new

I will link video of how the switch operates... it has a spring loaded piece you push inward before you can depress it.

It would be hard to accidentally activate this but curious prying hands have me concerned.

 

[mt72]

r2M: Yeah.... I will be steering clear of the knee airbag. I thought about a switch panel but really wanted to include the old school 100 series switch too. Good use info. Thanks!

trdcorolla & Tastethesoup : picture & operation below of switch..

mt72: What year Trooper? My father still has his '93 he bought new

I will link video of how the switch operates... it has a spring loaded piece you push inward before you can depress it.


It's a HZJ78 2001! Long life to the cruisers! Nice switch too