Builds Hard Ways - Rigger's 1969 FJ40 (9 Viewers)

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No big. I'll sort it out. I need to get a couple of adapters.
 
Rigger, here's my thoughts. The reason your old 10mm x 1.0 line nut isn't threading is because the unthreaded "tip" of your nut has been mushroomed. What I did was use my dremel to carefully grind the mushroomed tip back to parrallel.

The fittings that came with your Jegs #63020 are 3/8-24 inside flare. The Jegs fittings will fit in your masters 10mm x 1.0 hole because they are a smaller diameter and they just do. I just double checked on my spare OEM "TEQ" master cylinder. Note the wobble when they are 95% home. Obviously, they are wrong and won't seal.

As far as using 10mm x 1.0 line nuts on your new prop valve, as Rock40 said you'll need to find an adapter fitting.

I ended up using the Tilton (AN 3) proportioning valve on my 76 FJ40. I believe your Jegs unit is different from my -3AN though. I went with AN 3 because it had a few 10mm adapter options. In my case, the adapter was from either Earl's or Fragola. I have had better luck finding fittings on Fragola's website, then use their part number to search for a retailer who has it.
 
Thanks @thebigredrocker @Rock40 @65swb45 @brew8 I think I got things figured out. Having the thread size info really helped.

I had a semi productive day on the truck. I removed the old hard line to the rear, and modified the frame mount to receive the new line-to-hose junction.

I installed the new radiator, then discovered that I forgot to put the shroud in. D'oh! I think I can remove the fan and slip it in, anyway.

I also worked a bit on the wiring mess up front. The two little 5-lug terminal strips on the front fenders are a disaster. I need a crimp tool and some crimp ends to get this job wrapped up.

I started reinstalling the bib and am struggling with lining that all up. The bolts that hold that all together (5 per side) must need some gonzo sized washers.

I need to start axle centering on the front axle, but the 12" caliper tool I ordered is not here yet, so planning that for next Saturday.

I ordered some brake line adapters and brake line couplers, so I can get the plumbing finished. I also fabbed up a little holder doohickey to mount the Jegs proportioning valve to the fender.
 
One more thing; I looked a bit closer at my old radiator. It was a gunked up mess. Glad I got the new one from @beno.
 
Sounds like you got alot accomplished. That's always a good feeling. Here's the mushroomed portion of the line nut I was speaking of. Meant to attach it earlier.
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@thebigredrocker I sincerely appreciate your suggestions.

I went and bought some new fittings. And I reviewed everything.

1) I have a brand spanky new (no mushroom) M10x1.0 brake line end. It won't thread into my MC. It's a teeny tiny bit too large.

2) I have a brand spanky new American thread brake line end. I did not know what size it was. But it threaded perfectly into BOTH my MC and my prop valve. No slop. No wobble. Just a perfect fit. Because of your post, I now know that it is a 3/8" thread.

I note that 3/8" is just a teeny tiny bit smaller than 10mm (it is 9.53mm) so of course the M10 male fitting won't work in the 3/8 female threaded hole. It's too big.

I'm not a mechanic. I'm not a Toyota expert. But I do know when threads won't work.

My MC, which I bought and intend to use, is for some reason, threaded American, not Japanese. I don't know why it is this way. But it is.

And Mark @65swb45, I feel like I offended you. For that, please accept my sincere apology.

Alfred
 
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I spent some time on Amazon and eBay and got some adapters and unions.
 
Making more progress. Centered the axles and bolted up the knuckles.
 
I've been swamped at work and also some church and family events. So my progress has been slow but I'll get cracking again soon.
 
Ok. Back to work.

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There's a gasket between the spindle and the knuckle, and another between the backing plate (in my case, eliminated) and the dust shield. But no gasket between the backing plate eliminator and the spindle. Is that correct?
 
This is a brake hose end. It is designed to anchor using a tombstone and clip

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as shown below:


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Question: How do these types anchor?

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There's no room for the clip!

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Anyone have any insight?
 
Just guessing here. But, use a file and open up the hole in the tombstone so the hex fits into the tombstone. Then the clip on each side will hold the tombstone. I personally would file the hole in the tombstone into a hex just like the fitting.

Don
 
The hole in the mounting tab is a daisy that allows the hex to fit, but not to spin.

I often just grind the hex down.
 
The hole in the mounting tab is a daisy that allows the hex to fit, but not to spin.

I often just grind the hex down.

I experimented with this on a spare that I had lying around. I think this is gonna work great. Thanks for this suggestion.
 
I experimented with this on a spare that I had lying around. I think this is gonna work great. Thanks for this suggestion.

That's what the like button is for.;)
 
:doh:

I'm just realizing I need to torque the hub-to-rotor bolts. There's six bolts each wheel. Anyone know what the spec is on them?
 

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