Half day belt change 👎🏽 Any workarounds? (1 Viewer)

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Stupid question - what makes the distributor o-ring replacement easier when the alternator is off? Just easier get to top dead center? Thanks for all the great info.
 
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I'm prepping to replace my leaking power steering pump and lines, the aging alternator with a remanufactured denso, and the NAPA belts with new OEM. It seems logical after studying my FSM and reading the MUD threads that these three jobs should be complementary and best done together. Based on the varying MUD opinions this should be somewhere between a walk in the park set of jobs or an absolute catastrophic death spiral mess.

Any secret hints welcomed!


I think you are spot on bud. These projects lend themselves to work well at the same time if you remove the battery as well as the battery box. I'm assuming, you ordered the high pressure hose from napa? I say Napa because it's made by Gates and lot more cost-effective than the OEM solution.

If you have the coins, given the stupid cost of gas prices these days not an easy thing, spring for the Witt's End power steering kit. The hoses are top-notch, as well as the quality of workmanship. This is sort of one of those one and done kind of a project while improving the fluid capacity and cooling of your PS system.

This is not a walk in the park project but very satisfying nevertheless. A hint I can provide you regarding the PS pump is this; install the low pressure elbow pipe thing onto the pump while it is on the bench before installation.

This particular elbow has a flange which uses a tiny bolt and you have to make sure this flange is sitting completely flat on the pump. There is a tiny o-ring that lives here and your pump should come with it. Assembling this part of the project while on the vehicle made it so that I wasn't able to flush mount this elbow with flange, consequently, I had leak and cavitation.

You probably are already aware of this since you have read so many threads on this topic, do replace the low pressure hose that makes a 90° bend because over time this is where a tiny leak occurs. I know I have used a Toyota car hose that had a 90° elbow built into it which I trimmed to fit but I would imagine Napa probably carries the proper hose with a 90° elbow that you have to do the same, if you were not going the route of OEM replacement.

Enjoy the project.
 
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Stupid question - what makes the distributor o-ring replacement easier when the alternator is off? Just easier get to top dead center? Thanks for all the great info.

I've never heard of it being easier with alternator off.

It's definitely easier with valve cover off, which is usually when you'd do the distributor. No need for any kind of TDC setting since you can see the gears
 
Thanks guys. I ordered a new pump and the low pressure hose set from Wit's End, and the Rein high pressure hose assembly versus the insanely priced OEM set. The Wits End PS kit with the upgraded cooler wasn't available.

King Malleus, who's always in the know, mentioned above that the distributor o ring was an easy addition sans alternator which why I inquired.

Happy St. Paddys day to all and heading to my first second Guinness early today. :beer:
 
Thanks guys. I ordered a new pump and the low pressure hose set from Wit's End, and the Rein high pressure hose assembly versus the insanely priced OEM set. The Wits End PS kit with the upgraded cooler wasn't available.

King Malleus, who's always in the know, mentioned above that the distributor o ring was an easy addition sans alternator which why I inquired.

Happy St. Paddys day to all and heading to my first second Guinness early today. :beer:
I think @Malleus intent was if you are pulling the alternator and need to do the distributor o-ring, it makes the alternator easier without the dizzy in the way.

In addition, if you're going for the PS hoses then remove the dizzy, alternator, and hoses at the same time to open up that whole area.
 
What's everyone's change out interval for the belts? Mine have 40K miles on them and look/sound fine.
 
Not sure you can base it on the mileage alone, a belt's lifespan IMHO is a function of miles, heat, chemical/oil exposure from leaks, how they were installed (too tight or loose), UV exposure, Ozone, etc, etc, all the factors that age the rubber.

If they look frayed around the edges, if small cracks are appearing (and before pieces start coming off), it's time to replace them. IIRC Toyota recommends inspecting the belts every 30,000 miles??

A set of OEM belts in my area (hot, humid) and with minimal chemical exposure (no oil/coolant leaks), they can safely last five years/50,000 miles although I have run a set or two much longer. IIRC someone who uses Gates belts reported those would last longer than the OEM belts. FWIW.
 
I don’t know if my three 80s are special or the others I have worked on but I have never used a torx t30 I use 12 mm socket , ratchet wrench 12 and 14
 
Just wrapped up my spring tuning set of tasks and I'm beaten like a fully depreciated 3-legged government mule. HUGE thank you to all for your help and suggestions. It makes everything possible for me.
  • New power steering pump in along with high and low pressure lines. Getting the nut that holds the gear off the old pump was a bear, even with the Wits End gear holder thingy. Took around a quart of new atf using the back-and-forth steering wheel routine to get reservoir topped off. Worked like a charm.
  • New / remanufactured denso alternator in and old one rebuilt as a spare
  • Ditto old starter
  • Pulled distributor and replaced o-ring. No oil leaks but the old ring was shot.
  • New belts on. Pretty easy but the AC belt was hardest to seat even with the tensioning pulley full out. I had the fan pulled but had to re-do everything again after bolting fan back in as got too taut. Easy job though and I kinda agree with the 25-minute theorem posted elsewhere.
  • Replaced idler pulleys wtf job.
  • All new front transmission lines to and from radiator and oil cooler (this was my most frustrating task by far) and I was doused with ATF from a plethora of hoses showering down upon me. Getting the new lines seated on those nipples was a frustrating PITA even with lube. Gotta top off the ATF once all the new lines get refilled.
First turn of the key and fired right up. Timing gets set next week when I track down my neighbor that has my gun and taking it slow for a few days watching for leaks.

It's astounding how well this almost 30-year old vehicle runs. If I had hair, a libido, and weighed 25 lbs less I'd swear it was 1996 again!

Again, sincere thank you to all.
 
It's astounding how well this almost 30-year old vehicle runs. If I had hair, a libido, and weighed 25 lbs less I'd swear it was 1996 again!

I feel ya brother, I feel ya :bang:
 
I tighten up the tensioner bolt with the T30 on a long extension through the wheel well.

Belts are a bitch; then they slip on.

Same. Both tensioners can be adjusted through the wheel well, or from under the car.

Anti seize paste on the tensioner bolt helps too, but give it a hit with a little wire brush before adjusting to remove any dusty crud
 

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