Haff Hawged

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Still going to need shocks and the OE 80 shocks, that correspond with the 80 coil are relatively short, plus front is pin to pin.

Guess if fabbing the coil bucket, could always lower the coil and shock mount, but seems counterproductive if more than on road handling improvement is the goal.

I don't know what the front "lift" height is on yours, but custom coil springs aren't astronomically high.

I've worked with Coil Spring Specialties out of Kansas on other projects and they've worked great, BUT in those cases it was a matter of providing the VIN specific part number then describing the desired height and additional weights.

May be a different story on swapping out leafs for coils.

Other question may be how much space is outside of the frame rails for coils. Can't recall if you're axles are OE, but there didn't appear to be a lot of real estate between knuckle and frame rail for a coil.

I think I have rear LX450 coils which are softer than the 80, but would have to confirm if they're rears or fronts, the latter very soft and doubt they'd work.

Another possible option may be the early 250 coils/coil bucket/shock tower/shocks that could probably be had at salvage, or even a cheap used set of coil overs from any number of the Toyota IFS specifics, the latter easy to come by.

Here's a "for instance" to mull over on a IFS specific.


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These are "custom" but basically a 600lb coil with ~7" of adjustability to raise, 24" extended with 7.5" shock travel.

The upper mount is removable, and exposes a a small eye, that can adapt to any of the through pin adapters that Poly Performance lists for $20.

For what all that crap is worth......

Also, the 80 sway bar is narrow, almost paralleling the frame rails. The rear links attach outboard the frame, parallel to where the links attach and attach at the axle nearly the same width as the radius arms.

Biggest issue with it is, with enough down travel, it'll contact the drive shaft. Ask me how I know. :)

Send address and I'll package arms and get coming.

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:popcorn:
 
what are the rough front suspension travel measurements for the stock 80? I am absorbing as much from that forum as I can, but, since you here...;)
 
what are the rough front suspension travel measurements for the stock 80? I am absorbing as much from that forum as I can, but, since you here...;)

Oddly enough, I never cycled in OE form, but the OE shocks are ~23" extended with ~9" of travel.

The OE coils have been calculated at 220lbs per inch (on Mud. Not my math) and mine have a free length of ~18.5" DS and 17 3/4" PS, with 105k of usage.

Why, you may ask, do I have these numbers?

Search for the longest threads in the 80 forum and the struggles endured trying to achieve 3 link travel from the radius arm set up, and you'll see.

Biggest issue with the 80 front suspension is the lack of "off the shelf" pin-pin shocks. In your case, could utilize the lower shock eye and open the doors to more prevalent options, like Ford replacements, keeping budgetary constraints in mind.

I'd bet money that an Autozone off brand would ride as well as the longest 80 specific front aftermarket shock, which is still only 29.5".

We could compare corner weights, ride heights, and leaf/coil rates all day, and it's still a crap shoot as to wether or not it'd turn out at the specific needed. Reason why I didn't do coil overs, but in retrospect, it'd have been easier, since there's many producers on this side of the pond.

I'm wondering of it'd be plausible to mock up the radius arms out of cardboard (cause they're heavy) or similar at your current static height, assuming it's the desired ride height, then work backwards on coil height, or where the top of a coil "should" be, knowing the givens on an 80 coil rate and free length.

Hope that made sense.

Still don't have your address.
 
Oddly enough, I never cycled in OE form, but the OE shocks are ~23" extended with ~9" of travel.

The OE coils have been calculated at 220lbs per inch (on Mud. Not my math) and mine have a free length of ~18.5" DS and 17 3/4" PS, with 105k of usage.

Why, you may ask, do I have these numbers?

Search for the longest threads in the 80 forum and the struggles endured trying to achieve 3 link travel from the radius arm set up, and you'll see.



I'm wondering of it'd be plausible to mock up the radius arms out of cardboard (cause they're heavy) or similar at your current static height, assuming it's the desired ride height, then work backwards on coil height, or where the top of a coil "should" be, knowing the givens on an 80 coil rate and free length.

.


found it just before I got interrupted with an impromptu trip to the range earlier. Okay...wow, but oaky. My thoughts were to rough in the arms, and as you said, fab backwards from there as needed. custom shock hoops and spring buckets if I go that route,,,trying to figure out where to mount the springs. I would most likely use a 60 series axle housing to gain some end of housing real estate. Then I'm wondering if I have to use an 80 series steering box so the pitman doesn't get in the way of the panhard rod. good thing that hasn't happened yet! decisions decisions...Oh yeah...I have another rig to use as templates!...or do I smell another body swap:doh: it would get some work done to the OG wagon while I was in there...:hhmm:
 
OKAY. it looks like the 55 front axle is about 1 1/8" MINIMUM on each end to fit spring buckets between the outside of the framerail and the transition on the axle housing to the knuckleball. This problem could EASILY be fixed by throwing money at it in the form of coil-over shocks and springs, as they would only be about 3 1/2" in diameter v the roughly 6" diameter of stock 80 series springs. My rig with about 3 1/2" of shackle reversal lift in front is tall enough that stock 80 series springs would just about flush out to the top of the framerail at current ride height. The radius arm mounts would be just inboard of the spring buckets fitting just under the framerail- NOT sure if they will be above or below axle yet...In order to use 80 series springs, I will need to add 2 1/2" inches to the front axle. a 60 axle will get me about 3 more inches overall, with the extra being on the drivers side. This would be an issue with the diff housing encroaching on the space needed for spring mounts in a leaf spring suspension, but with the arms and coils being more outboarded than the leaf springs it is not really a deal killer. a simple fix would be a 60 series axle(desirable). I have a 55 front axle from a drum brake rig, and I have 2 of Daves axle sleeves. I could cut the balls off of both ends, add a sleeve to the drivers side, reinstall the balls at corrected castor, then use an fj60 drivers side inner axle shaft with the knuckles and hubs from the 77 disk brake axle. el cheapo 60 series axle. this should get me the space to mount the spring buckets where they need to be. the steering arms can remain and all I have to do is fab a rod from the pittman to the relay rod and fab mounts for the damper. still working on the sway bar, not certain how necessary it will be, maybe I'll wait to figure that out. Plan to use 3/16" plate for brackets; they all look simple enough and I have a guy with a plasma to cut out my shapes for me:D
 
giving myself a friday afternoon and a full sat an sun to get it all done. prolly do a separate thread for ease of reference...
 
Hmmm, and to think I can't get resi mounts fabbed up in months.

....

it helps if you're not constantly changing directions:p...I am no fabricator(my tools consist if a torch, welder, and 4.5" angle grinder) but post a pic of the resi mounts you want, and I'll see what I can whoop up...;) 10% perspiration, 90% inspiration...
 
it helps if you're not constantly changing directions:p...

:)

I actually forged a straight path on the 80, with deviations to the well thought out plans occurring due to breakdowns in communication, to be blamed on the language barrier that exists between US and AUS. :)

I am no fabricator(my tools consist if a torch, welder, and 4.5" angle grinder) but post a pic of the resi mounts you want, and I'll see what I can whoop up...;) 10% perspiration, 90% inspiration...

I appreciate the offer. It's actually a relatively easy mount, but unplanned and lacking time to finish.

I'm not a fabricator, but capable of this task if given an hour or two at the shop, it's the hour or two that have been difficult.

Having spent a year on the shocks and well over a year on the coils and radius arms (that aren't right, either.) you'd think there'd be no way that any unknowns would crop up, but when I mocked up the resis and resi hoses, I used an old garden hose that was very flexible...unlike the braided resi hose holding 250PSI.

Long story short, they didn't work as I planned, and haven't had time to rework, but necessity is the mother of all innovation, right?

image-117888879.webp

Yes, that's a zip tie. It has successfully held on for over a thousand miles and two wheeling trips.

Haha.

Done with the thread jack.

I about broke my toe on the radius arms this morning since UPS wouldn't ship as "bare" on Friday, even though they're securely tied together (with the same bad ass zip ties in the pics) for whatever reason and wanted a fortune to box.

They'll go out tomorrow, via FedEx Ground....in a box. :rolleyes:

My two cents, for what they're worth.

If going to the trouble, COs make the most sense.

If one can research users on PBB, there are all kinds of "deals", but sifting through credible sellers gets old.

I'd bet a suitable coil rate could be determined with redneck math and the notes I have for the 80 and FJC. The FJC is similar in weight, and had all but bought COs for an SAC for it, based on CO reactions in IFS form.

There's so many aspects that aren't going to be an issue for yours since you're fabbing mounts, no AWD to contend with (driveline angles) and you're capable of a cut and turn, so caster is a non-issue.

If you really want to spend some volunteered time fabbing, help me fix the tremendously huge POS I've been polishing for a year and a half. (Not really requesting help, just lamenting)

All it needs is the housing rotated to parallel the diff and TC output flanges (means cleaning the axle of all mounts, perches, then relocating) cut and turn for caster correction, then I could say that it's the absolute best radius arm set up possible, since it's the flexiest, (could get rid of a double, double DC shaft. :rolleyes: ) due to attaching in a vertical plans DS and horizontal PS.

image-461260513.webp

I like the low hanging, solid steel arms. Considering the best description of wheeling type is "Braille", they act as feelers in the rocks.....

image-117888879.webp


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Since boxing, going to try to find the correspond bolts for the 80 bushings and send too.

I have somewhere, since I followed the FSM to a T as their listed as one time usage.
 
Since boxing, going to try to find the correspond bolts for the 80 bushings and send too.

I have somewhere, since I followed the FSM to a T as their listed as one time usage.

:bounce:ohhhh you are trixsy;) opposing axis radius arm mounts?:clap: lemme know how much...
 
so got some numbers from my buddy Jacob in Fresno...anyone in the area saturday morning, he's got a build party for his dads 40 going;). looks like the radius arm frame mount center will be almost dead center of the first body mount arms- a little toward the bumper- to keep the axle right where it is. that put's em right smack inthe middle of the trans mount cross member mounts I did such a nice job on:mad: oh well. gives me an excuse to double duty the radius arm mounts as some round pipe cross member/skid plate frame mounts. I was planning on using some round material and spring bushings to secure the bottom of the tranny anyway, and was already wondering if the "factory" looking cross member was going to go with the rest of the material used in the rest of the build. It looks like I have some arms and some springs coming from the very cool community of ih8mud;), and I have plans for most of the rest of the brackets. still got some planning to do, and alot of prefab, but it looks pretty straight forward. I figure this gives me a baseline of a stock 80, and any lift they use would corrospond to my already lifted 3ish" truck in a relatively similar fashion :meh: I am already aware of the possibilty that I will be re-welding leaf spring perches to the frame:doh:
 
three revs forward, then nine back



























cosmic holding pattern



























:bang::bang::bang:




















but we got Christmas covered;)






















we'll see what next year brings us; might be migrating to better hunting grounds. these here hills are feeling pretty used up:meh:
 
cheers! merry Christmas and new years
 
oh, I've put about 20K on her since the engine...she sits for now, waiting on some time for me to get back to it...changed jobs, moved, kids, etc...but I haven't quit yet...really want to get back to the front end suspension mod/aging the frame, maybe; also have to find the time and money to start the restore of the 77 body- I am missing the wagon...Thanks for bumping this up- I do need to get some more work done on it.
 

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