Had a bit of a scare on the drive home (temporary overheating?)
- Thread starter 98 SNAKE EATER
- Start date
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Isnt that bosal exhaust system just over 3 years old? If so...... i wonder what a 17 year old OEM cat looks like inside. Maybe this is the cause of everyones heating issues. How many miles on that bosal system.
https://forum.ih8mud.com/threads/so-im-in-need-of-a-muffler-what-are-my-options.475548/
https://forum.ih8mud.com/threads/so-im-in-need-of-a-muffler-what-are-my-options.475548/
I pulled 17 yr old cats off my truck last week, they had +287k on them an the elements looked to be in good shape in both of them. I pulled them because the flanges were rusted out. I'll try and get pics for comparison sake.
so much sh**t in there!! durn!
- Thread starter
- #25
It was a 3 year old Bosal with ~120k miles 
- Thread starter
- #26
I was hoping to tackle the cooling system this weekend, but the T-Stat, fan nuts and fluid didn't show up 
Oh well, gunna shoot for Monday night
On a side note, she's running better than ever
I hit 90+ with ease on the highway earlier today whereas before she would struggle above 80 and the temps have been below normal all morning showing a high of 197* in traffic and 193-194* while pushing her on the highway
3 drive cycles so far and no MIL
Just curious, but is there anyone else running with a primary cat only?
Oh well, gunna shoot for Monday night
On a side note, she's running better than ever
I hit 90+ with ease on the highway earlier today whereas before she would struggle above 80 and the temps have been below normal all morning showing a high of 197* in traffic and 193-194* while pushing her on the highway
3 drive cycles so far and no MIL
Just curious, but is there anyone else running with a primary cat only?
- Thread starter
- #27
OK, I finally had some time to myself last night, so I decided to attack the cooling system....
Yanked out the FC and started disassembling....
After removing the 8 screws, I was able to spin the two halves freely, but it was still a bit tough to separate.
Fearing I might damage the non-replaceable seal, I didn't really want to smack it with a BFH, so I took a couple of screws and threaded them in from the bottom, then tightened them slowly to force the two halves apart.
Once I had them split, I eyeballed the level of the fluid while sitting on a flat surface.
It was about level with the bottom of each fill hole...
Took note of the adjustment screw positions, but decided not to mess with them...
Stuck everything in an aluminum drain pan and heated it up to about 200* according to my temp gun...
Let it drain for a few hours, heating and letting it cool again about every 30 minutes or so...
In the meantime, I drained the coolant, pulled the water pump and T-Stat...
Both looked to be in good condition as expected, but the water pump did have a little squeak to it...
This is what came out of the FC
And this is what I put in...
It took both tubes of OEM 10k cst (18ml each) and that put it about the same level of what I started with right at the bottom of each fill hole...
I then topped it off with some OFNA 50k cst from my R/C truck pit box to the top of each fill hole, then smeared a little on surface..
I then heated it up to about 200* to help the fluid drain down into the cavities and managed to add just a few more squirts of the 50k fluid to level it off at the top of each fill hole....
Re-installed everything and only came up with a few leftover bolts and nuts
OK, now the results....
I put the front wheels back on and lowered my lift so that the front was higher to help burp the system with the radiator cap off...
Started it up and the FC roared to life with much more force than what was shown in the video I posted...
The auxiliary fan spun as if I had turned it on
It eventually tapered off, but it took about 45 seconds (usually takes 10-15 seconds)
I then set the hand throttle to 2200 RPM's with the A/C on and kept my eye on the DroidScan temps
With the clutch disengaged, the temps still climbed slower than usual and about 4 minutes in, the FC engaged at 183* (a little lower than I wanted)
It roared up and I could see the auxiliary fan spinning fast, so it was definitely moving some air.
Thing is, it stayed at 183* for about 10 minutes straight and there didn't seem to be much coolant flow cause the T-stat was still closed
Let it run for another 10 minutes and the highest it went was 187*, but I was still able to stick my finger in the radiator without getting burned
I then dropped her back down to idle for about 10 minutes and kept an eye on the temps...
Went up to 190* and stayed there and the radiator was finally showing some flow...
Moved the slider to full heat and let her run for another 10 minutes, but the coolant level only dropped slightly....
Capped her off and set the hand throttle again to 2200 RPM's and kept my eye on the temps....
Never got above 190* in the shop
Took her out for a spin to the gas station for a fill up, then romped on her hard for a good 15 minutes on the back roads and the highest she got was 192*
On the drive home, highway temps stayed at about ~186-187* and would stay around ~190-192* in slow traffic....
This morning before I started, I checked all the levels and my driveway for leaks and all was good
Started her up and she roared to life as usual, then tapered off about 30 seconds later...
The heat index is 99* today, but on the drive into work, she varied from 184-187* on the highway and hit a high of 197* in slow moving traffic, but best of all, the A/C seems to be blowing just as cool when stopped at a light as it does at speed
Going by the temps on DroidScan, it does seem like she's over cooling a bit, so I'm curious to see how that will effect MPG's
Yanked out the FC and started disassembling....
After removing the 8 screws, I was able to spin the two halves freely, but it was still a bit tough to separate.
Fearing I might damage the non-replaceable seal, I didn't really want to smack it with a BFH, so I took a couple of screws and threaded them in from the bottom, then tightened them slowly to force the two halves apart.
Once I had them split, I eyeballed the level of the fluid while sitting on a flat surface.
It was about level with the bottom of each fill hole...
Took note of the adjustment screw positions, but decided not to mess with them...
Stuck everything in an aluminum drain pan and heated it up to about 200* according to my temp gun...
Let it drain for a few hours, heating and letting it cool again about every 30 minutes or so...
In the meantime, I drained the coolant, pulled the water pump and T-Stat...
Both looked to be in good condition as expected, but the water pump did have a little squeak to it...
This is what came out of the FC
And this is what I put in...
It took both tubes of OEM 10k cst (18ml each) and that put it about the same level of what I started with right at the bottom of each fill hole...
I then topped it off with some OFNA 50k cst from my R/C truck pit box to the top of each fill hole, then smeared a little on surface..
I then heated it up to about 200* to help the fluid drain down into the cavities and managed to add just a few more squirts of the 50k fluid to level it off at the top of each fill hole....
Re-installed everything and only came up with a few leftover bolts and nuts
OK, now the results....
I put the front wheels back on and lowered my lift so that the front was higher to help burp the system with the radiator cap off...
Started it up and the FC roared to life with much more force than what was shown in the video I posted...
The auxiliary fan spun as if I had turned it on
It eventually tapered off, but it took about 45 seconds (usually takes 10-15 seconds)
I then set the hand throttle to 2200 RPM's with the A/C on and kept my eye on the DroidScan temps
With the clutch disengaged, the temps still climbed slower than usual and about 4 minutes in, the FC engaged at 183* (a little lower than I wanted)
It roared up and I could see the auxiliary fan spinning fast, so it was definitely moving some air.
Thing is, it stayed at 183* for about 10 minutes straight and there didn't seem to be much coolant flow cause the T-stat was still closed
Let it run for another 10 minutes and the highest it went was 187*, but I was still able to stick my finger in the radiator without getting burned
I then dropped her back down to idle for about 10 minutes and kept an eye on the temps...
Went up to 190* and stayed there and the radiator was finally showing some flow...
Moved the slider to full heat and let her run for another 10 minutes, but the coolant level only dropped slightly....
Capped her off and set the hand throttle again to 2200 RPM's and kept my eye on the temps....
Never got above 190* in the shop
Took her out for a spin to the gas station for a fill up, then romped on her hard for a good 15 minutes on the back roads and the highest she got was 192*
On the drive home, highway temps stayed at about ~186-187* and would stay around ~190-192* in slow traffic....
This morning before I started, I checked all the levels and my driveway for leaks and all was good
Started her up and she roared to life as usual, then tapered off about 30 seconds later...
The heat index is 99* today, but on the drive into work, she varied from 184-187* on the highway and hit a high of 197* in slow moving traffic, but best of all, the A/C seems to be blowing just as cool when stopped at a light as it does at speed
Going by the temps on DroidScan, it does seem like she's over cooling a bit, so I'm curious to see how that will effect MPG's
OK, I finally had some time to myself last night, so I decided to attack the cooling system....
Going by the temps on DroidScan, it does seem like she's over cooling a bit, so I'm curious to see how that will effect MPG's
You always baby the 80 like that? No wonder it's at 367K+ miles!
- Thread starter
- #30
Part of the cat was already melted through (notice the hole)
Some guys soak it either in gas or mineral spirits overnight to clean and I've read where others use some kindof acid dip, but honestly if a cat ever gets to the point where it need cleaning, then it's time to either gut or replace it
368k now
She's my primary driver, so I try to stay on top of my PM's
