H55F bent rear output shaft (1 Viewer)

[TheMissingLINX]

Hey all, i did myself a mischief and had 3 out of 4 bolts come loose on driveshaft on a long drive and managed to bend the rear output shaft on the gearbox. I was wondering if anyone could answer a couple questions i have:

1: Will the gearbox need to be dropped and stripped partially to remove and replace the output shaft? (After reading through the manual i feel like it can be taken out without removing the whole box but I’m unsure).

2: Could i have potentially damaged any of the box internals during this endeavour? (I’ll know once it’s out i guess but I’d like to be prepared).

The attached photo isn’t too clear bur its definitely bent and after a few weeks of driving has gotten worse.

 

[sodafeld1]

Are you sure it is bent?
It maybe the bearing preload shim needs to be replaced/repacked with a thicker one, which I had to do once when my driveshaft bolts came loose, after heavy towing. I drove for around 200km with a vibration over 80kmh. Thought it was steering but nope it was the driveshaft. So I was lucky I did not drive too much.
But, if it is bent, the transfer would have to come out at the least. I have only removed the whole lot, gearbox and transfer at once but I know it is possible to rebuild the transfer whilst break dancing under the vehicle. It would not be fun.

I kind of imagine it would take something really serious, for a long time to bend the shaft. Hopefully for you. How long did you drive?

Maybe remove driveshaft and transfer cover plate which holds the output shaft bearing, to see what condition things are like. You don't have to remove the whole lot, that way yet. Then decide from there. There is quite a few shim sizes, the factory one is .7mm from memory, so is quite easy to slice up if the driveshaft is loose. If the shim is too loose, the bearing would wobble along with the shaft.

A common problem is over zealous grease into the driveshaft yoke zerk which places too much pressure against the transfer shaft.

I am just closing up my spare h55f transfer, it is not too hard first time around, but I would not enjoy doing under the vehicle.

 

[TheMissingLINX]

Are you sure it is bent?
It maybe the bearing preload shim needs to be replaced/repacked with a thicker one, which I had to do once when my driveshaft bolts came loose, after heavy towing. I drove for around 200km with a vibration over 80kmh. Thought it was steering but nope it was the driveshaft. So I was lucky I did not drive too much.
But, if it is bent, the transfer would have to come out at the least. I have only removed the whole lot, gearbox and transfer at once but I know it is possible to rebuild the transfer whilst break dancing under the vehicle. It would not be fun.

I kind of imagine it would take something really serious, for a long time to bend the shaft. Hopefully for you. How long did you drive?

Maybe remove driveshaft and transfer cover plate which holds the output shaft bearing, to see what condition things are like. You don't have to remove the whole lot, that way yet. Then decide from there. There is quite a few shim sizes, the factory one is .7mm from memory, so is quite easy to slice up if the driveshaft is loose. If the shim is too loose, the bearing would wobble along with the shaft.

A common problem is over zealous grease into the driveshaft yoke zerk which places too much pressure against the transfer shaft.

I am just closing up my spare h55f transfer, it is not too hard first time around, but I would not enjoy doing under the vehicle.
View attachment 3437142

I reckon i drove about 60 k’s, had the same vibration and assumed it was steering but i noticed it getting slightly worse which was alarming so i pulled over and sussed it out.

Hopefully you’re right, might have to pull it apart to have a proper look, bit alarming that its getting worse though

Appreciate the feedback

 

[sodafeld1]

Just noticed you are in Oz! I am by no means an eggspurt but hopefully that it what it is. If the shaft can wiggle around , the bearing is loose, it also causes oil leaks needless to say. It can be difficult to get the shims in Oz. I got some sizes from the toyota dealer and others from amayama. Mr toyota obviously planned regular access to the output shaft bearing shims due to the design.

 

[TheMissingLINX]

Just noticed you are in Oz! I am by no means an eggspurt but hopefully that it what it is. If the shaft can wiggle around , the bearing is loose, it also causes oil leaks needless to say. It can be difficult to get the shims in Oz. I got some sizes from the toyota dealer and others from amayama. Mr toyota obviously planned regular access to the output shaft bearing shims due to the design.

Yeah no oil leaks at all which made me think it was okay at first, parts in Australia sucks in general but ill manage, thanks again, ill let ya know how I go

 

[cruisermatt]

Looks like it’s just the dust shield on the output flange

 

[sodafeld1]

Looks like it’s just the dust shield on the output flange

Yes, possibly , that is the most easy to tackle! if there are no leaks, that could be all there is.

 

[janyyc]

A common problem is over zealous grease into the driveshaft yoke zerk which places too much pressure against the transfer shaft.

Sorry to hijack this thread, but this is interesting to me - how is this possible and how could you tell when greasing? The FSM is sparse on greasing protocols.

 

[sodafeld1]

When you grease the yoke zerk it pushes the yoke out, so the driveshaft effectively lengthens. The pressure of grease is under estimated, it develops a fair bit of force which ends up pushing against your diff and output shaft of the transfer.

Should have pointed out to the op, to easily shorten the driveshaft with yoke, just remove the zerk with 7 or 8mm deep socket. It is much easier to retract the yoke back into the driveshaft once this done. I learnt this a hard way..whilst replacing rear springs, using all sorts of ratchet tie downs to get the driveshaft the right length. Just remove the zerk, much easier, release the pressure.

When lubing the yoke zerk 2-3 pumps is plenty sufficient. There are numerous write ups about over pumping the yoke zerk with grease on driveshafts on mud..the unis are much more easy to observe when enough grease has been pumped. Just saying, being mindful of how it is designed.

If you observe how thin the factory shim for preload is, you realise you don't want too much force in the yoke, just snug without wobble.

 

[dirtyham]

TT would have the yoke in stock in melb for about $150 from memory but does kinda look just like the dust seal

 

[TheMissingLINX]

Looks like it’s just the dust shield on the output flange

Hey matt, i think you may be right, just used a flathead screwdriver to gently move it back into place and now looks okay, this is a new photo and that shaft hasnt rotated at all since the last photo and similar angle so…

Also, i know that nut is loose, i have new ones since they seem to be a 1 use thing.