H42 Transmission, Tcase, eBrake Rebuild in a '76 FJ40` (1 Viewer)

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Success!!! Jim C mentioned applying heat and I didn't see if you did or not but heat from a propane torch, map torch or in some cases just a heat gun can really help. On the flip side putting bearings in the freezer can aid reassembly.
 
Success!!! Jim C mentioned applying heat and I didn't see if you did or not but heat from a propane torch, map torch or in some cases just a heat gun can really help. On the flip side putting bearings in the freezer can aid reassembly.

No, once I braced the rear, it pulled pretty easily. I was lucky. The hooks just barely grabbed.
 
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Ok pulled the output shaft and gears, counter shaft, and am ready to drive out the reverse idler shaft. How do I remove the key for the shaft?

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Output shaft and gears

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Reverse Idler Shaft

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Instructions say drive idler shaft out

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But how to remove this key?
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When the shaft is driven out, the key will fall out.

But there is usually no need to remove the reverse or reverse shift fork. These parts have no wear issues.
Wash out the case, dry the case, lube the reverse gear and begin reassembly.
 
When the shaft is driven out, the key will fall out.

But there is usually no need to remove the reverse or reverse shift fork. These parts have no wear issues.
Wash out the case, dry the case, lube the reverse gear and begin reassembly.

Yes, I read that, but I was uncomfortable with that. I'm in there, it looks easy to clean up, shouldn't I get the rust off the shaft and just go ahead and touch everything?

I'm bad about listening to good advice sometimes (hence the existence of this thread, several folks said "Why the hell are you rebuilding an H42?").

(Thanks for suffering through this thread by the way).
 
Yes, I read that, but I was uncomfortable with that. I'm in there, it looks easy to clean up, shouldn't I get the rust off the shaft and just go ahead and touch everything?

I'm bad about listening to good advice sometimes (hence the existence of this thread, several folks said "Why the hell are you rebuilding an H42?").

(Thanks for suffering through this thread by the way).

Listen to Jim. I have also never messed with removing reverse on any I have worked on. Nice work removing the output shaft bearing. :beer:
 
12. Started cleaning the case. What a pain. Advice herein was to just leave the reverse idler gear in place, but I may remove it and use electrolysis to clean the case.
 
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When measuring the thrust clearances between first second and third gears, how should the shaft and gears be sitting?

If I hold the shaft vertically, the gap is too tight based on the FSM. If I lay it horizontally, the gaps appear to be too large, even holding the gears tight on the shaft.

Rookie. Help.
 
When measuring the thrust clearances between first second and third gears, how should the shaft and gears be sitting?

If I hold the shaft vertically, the gap is too tight based on the FSM. If I lay it horizontally, the gaps appear to be too large, even holding the gears tight on the shaft.

Rookie. Help.

I performed the tests horizontally, and failed them all. I was *just* out of spec on all of them. I figured the tranny shifted fine when I took it apart; so I put it back together and it still shifts fine years later, despite failing those tests. YMMV, but that is my experience.
 
I performed the tests horizontally, and failed them all. I was *just* out of spec on all of them. I figured the tranny shifted fine when I took it apart; so I put it back together and it still shifts fine years later, despite failing those tests. YMMV, but that is my experience.

Too tight or too loose?
 
I check it horizontal, and they are always too loose from the factory. In fact, it seems all the selective fit snapring and shims are the thinnest (loosest) available. Apparently Aisin just throws trannies together at the factory, knowing that the design is good enough that the tranny will function acceptably even if it is slightly loose. My experience has been that an H42 will shift great when put together with all new bearings & syncros, and all selective fits at the bottom edge of acceptable.
 
So I scuffed the brass bushing inside the reverse idle gear while pounding out the idler shaft (I know, I know, everyone said don't remove it). Doesn't appear to be a big deal.

Anyone disagree? It is soft brass, and although a deep scuff, I don't think it will hurt the integrity or the travel of the gear on the shaft once I buff it a bit.
 
Ha, ha! Told ya so!;p Shouldn't matter much, since 99% of the time reverse is just sitting there, not spinning.

Ouch, talk about kicking a guy when he's down!

At least I'm still progressing:

This was after rinsing off the acid etch. Looks whiter with the flash.

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Phosphoric Acid Etch (POR15 Brand)



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Clear Marking

Then self etching primer (why not?).

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Primer - Rustoleum Self Etch

Finally after painting.

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Rustoleum High Performance Glass Black Enamel

Will it hold up?
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