Builds GX470 - Weekend Overland Build

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Well after a camping trip a few weeks back, I found that the little group 34 battery wasn't going to cutting it. So, I was lucky enough that the store let me exchange it for a group 31 battery that has 5 times the amp hours. It took 15 feet of black and 17 feet of red 4 gauge wire to link the batteries together. I have a voltage sensitive relay controlling the connection between the batteries.
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Drilled a 1" hole in the floor and installed a rubber grommet. Some modifications to the plastic step were required to allow the wires to pass.
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BEP Voltage sensitive relay to automatically connect and isolate the batteries.
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Fridge set back in, with its new insulated travel bag.
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A peak of the big 31 size battery, behind the fridge.
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It worked great for the initial test runs in the driveway. I am hoping to give it a field test next weekend.
 
Ok this is an ignorant question but im kinda new to this stuff ... so are you running the fridge off the 12v plug in the trunk? ...and does that outlet stay working when the truck is not running or do you have to modify it to be able to do that ... I haven't tested mine to see exactly how it operates. .. I know there is button up front to turn it on ... thanks
 
you usually have to hard wire the fridge.
 
Here is a quick little wiring diagram:

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The portable fridge came with a 12 volt cigarette lighter socket style plug. I cut the head off the wire and replaced it with two 5/16" ring connectors (one positive, one negative) and a 15 amp inline fuse. The ring connectors are connected directly to the "house" battery. No voltage drops here.

The voltage sensitive relay links the batteries together when it detects 13.4 volts (when the alternator is charging). When the truck is shut-off and the voltage drops to 12.8 the relay un-links the batteries. This way fridge only uses the house battery and can't drain the starting battery. When the truck starts back up the relay will recharge the starting battery first, then link both batteries together and start charging the house battery, too.
 
Here is a quick little wiring diagram:

nA8fs8w.png


The portable fridge came with a 12 volt cigarette lighter socket style plug. I cut the head off the wire and replaced it with two 5/16" ring connectors (one positive, one negative) and a 15 amp inline fuse. The ring connectors are connected directly to the "house" battery. No voltage drops here.

The voltage sensitive relay links the batteries together when it detects 13.4 volts (when the alternator is charging). When the truck is shut-off and the voltage drops to 12.8 the relay un-links the batteries. This way fridge only uses the house battery and can't drain the starting battery. When the truck starts back up the relay will recharge the starting battery first, then link both batteries together and start charging the house battery, too.

This is helpful thank you
 
What setting do you have the front coils on? It looks higher in the back than the front.

The spring perch is on the second row from the bottom. Toytec pre-assembled them. I called them to verifiy that they were set for a 3" lift, and they told me that the springs that come with it are taller than stock, and you only need to put them on a higher row if you are using stock springs.
 
This thread is my inspiration to quite possibly get rid of my 80 series and clone this rig instead.
I'm a family of three and don't do any rock crawling so my lifted, triple locked, dual battery, ARB winch bumper, etc rig is just being so under utilized it's almost sad.
Besides, 13 mpg.....
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Have you thought about adding in a set of powerpole connectors so that you can quick disconnect the refrigerator?
 
This thread is my inspiration to quite possibly get rid of my 80 series and clone this rig instead.
I'm a family of three and don't do any rock crawling so my lifted, triple locked, dual battery, ARB winch bumper, etc rig is just being so under utilized it's almost sad.
Besides, 13 mpg.....View attachment 1147850.

the GX is no econo car. we see 13 mpg regularly but love it anyway
 
My wife had an '03 GX for 10 years, and it was probably the best overall vehicle I've ever owned. That being said, I've always had a desire to build a GX, so I bought another one a couple of weeks ago ('04, Blue/Gray).

I'm about to start ordering some goodies, so I have a few questions:
  • I've talked with both Toytec and MetalTech about their suspension components, along with reading every build thread I can find on MUD, ClubLexus, Toyota 120, etc., and there are pros and cons about almost all of the suspension kits. I've always been a HUGE fan of the Bilstein 5100s, but some people have reported that the front Toytec Bilstein/Eibach set up (like you appear to have), can be too soft and can have excessive dive under harder braking. What has been your experience with the overall ride of the truck post-lift? (Note: I plan to use this truck as a Daily Driver, but I also want to use it for weekend overlanding-style travel like you're doing. Therefore, I want it to have a comfortable ride, but I also don't want it to be overly soft like it was from the factory)
  • Did you go with the Superflex HD rear coils over the non-HD due to the amount of rear weight you anticipated carrying with the fridge, etc. or did you perceive the non-HDs as being, generally, too soft?
I'm trying to find a happy medium in the suspension. I have a 100 series Land Cruiser with a "regular" OME lift (OME Torsion Bars, OME 866 progressive rear springs, and OME Nitrocharger Sport shocks), and I could hardly stand to drive it because it was so harsh! I finally determined it was the Nitrocharger Sport shocks causing the majority of the harshness (the original non-sport Nitrochargers were fine, but they're no longer available), so I changed to IronMan Foam Cell shocks, and the ride is vastly improved.......SO, I'm just trying to find the best balance between performance and comfort on these GX systems before I make a move. (FYI: I may even consider a "softer" rear spring and compensate for any future weight-carrying needs by installing internal-spring Air Bags)

In a nutshell, I'm just trying to find out why you bought what you did, and how you like the ride - maybe even with comments on before-fridge and after-fridge?

Thanks!
 
the GX is no econo car. we see 13 mpg regularly but love it anyway
Yeah the the difference between 13mpg in a 120 and 13 MPG in a 80 is the 120 has a v8 and power to spare and can easily do 70mph uphill with a load and can pull 16-20+ cruising at 65mph... While the 80 is struggling to get 13 empty on flat ground, and going up hill with a load it would be doing good to maintain 60mph... And that's not even getting into the creature comforts. I have a good friend who has a 80 series(dual locked) and while it's nice for offroad and will probably last longer than the 120 and is built like a tank they are night and day different. And I'd put my GX up against his 80 in a "all-around living for the adventurous guy" competition any day.

Yes the 120 isn't perfect but it brings more to the table I think then a 80 does, at least for everyday life.
 
Yeah the the difference between 13mpg in a 120 and 13 MPG in a 80 is the 120 has a v8 and power to spare and can easily do 70mph uphill with a load and can pull 16-20+ cruising at 65mph... While the 80 is struggling to get 13 empty on flat ground, and going up hill with a load it would be doing good to maintain 60mph... And that's not even getting into the creature comforts. I have a good friend who has a 80 series(dual locked) and while it's nice for offroad and will probably last longer than the 120 and is built like a tank they are night and day different. And I'd put my GX up against his 80 in a "all-around living for the adventurous guy" competition any day.

Yes the 120 isn't perfect but it brings more to the table I think then a 80 does, at least for everyday life.

And that would be why I sold my locked 80 and went to a 120. :)
 
Have you thought about adding in a set of powerpole connectors so that you can quick disconnect the refrigerator?
To disconnect the fridge I just pull the power cord out of the front of the fridge.
...What has been your experience with the overall ride of the truck post-lift? ...Did you go with the Superflex HD rear coils over the non-HD due to the amount of rear weight you anticipated carrying with the fridge, etc. or did you perceive the non-HDs as being, generally, too soft?

In a nutshell, I'm just trying to find out why you bought what you did, and how you like the ride - maybe even with comments on before-fridge and after-fridge?

Thanks!
I picked the Toytec with 5100s because I don't need an extreme rig. I didn't see the benefit of adjustable coilovers, if I'm not going to be constantly changing the lift height. Plus the few hundred dollars I saved on the lift let me buy more stuff.

In my experience post 3" lift, I do feel the GX has a bit more body roll due to the higher center of gravity. The ride did get slightly "stiffer" compared to the 10 year old springs and airbags. The nose does still dips more than I prefer under hard breaking (nothing dangerous or scary). I honestly wish they offered HD front springs. All of the little suspension changes I felt while driving after the lift were pretty much forgotten about after a gas tank or two. Now it just feels normal.

I did choose the super flex HD rear coils. With the third row seats removed and nothing in the back it feels bouncy, but loaded with all our camping gear it rides like a Lexus should. I didn't want the rear to be squatted when we are loaded up, or if we get a trailer in the future.
 
I'm running in FWD only right now while my rear diff is blown ... and I got almost 18mpg on the hwy...... with 33's and heavy front and rear bumps and loaded down with camping gear .... not sure if that's an improvement or not ... I had a Silverado with a 4.8 and it got pretty bad gas mileage too ... I think they choked emissions down so much on the 120 that it hurt the mpg ... I bet with an intake , exhaust and programed you can see much better improvements
 
To disconnect the fridge I just pull the power cord out of the front of the fridge.

I picked the Toytec with 5100s because I don't need an extreme rig. I didn't see the benefit of adjustable coilovers, if I'm not going to be constantly changing the lift height. Plus the few hundred dollars I saved on the lift let me buy more stuff.

In my experience post 3" lift, I do feel the GX has a bit more body roll due to the higher center of gravity. The ride did get slightly "stiffer" compared to the 10 year old springs and airbags. The nose does still dips more than I prefer under hard breaking (nothing dangerous or scary). I honestly wish they offered HD front springs. All of the little suspension changes I felt while driving after the lift were pretty much forgotten about after a gas tank or two. Now it just feels normal.

I did choose the super flex HD rear coils. With the third row seats removed and nothing in the back it feels bouncy, but loaded with all our camping gear it rides like a Lexus should. I didn't want the rear to be squatted when we are loaded up, or if we get a trailer in the future.
So it sounds like the ride is still somewhat "Lexus-worthy?" While I really enjoy making performance modifications to my cars - and maybe it's just a function of getting old(er) - but these days, I'm much less willing to put up with a harsh ride just to make the truck perform/look "right." It seems to be easier to stiffen up a suspension than it is to make it softer, so I'm leaning toward making it more compliant to begin with and tweak it if it needs it.........sounds like the either the Bilstein/Eibach or a "custom" IronMan setup from MetalTech will fit the bill.........
 
Dear Mr. Him, et all,
Struggle to maintain 60 on a hill with a load?
Hilarious!
I just towed a single axle 6x8 cargo trailer to Idaho a couple months ago. Full of household moving stuff. No idea what it weighed. Would do 60, on a straight away. That's about it.
There were two hills where I was in FIRST gear, 3000 rpms, 25 mph, floored. And dozens where I was barely able to do 40-45.
Never over heated.
Never complained.
AC on the whole time.
Didn't even use any (more than usual) oil.
11 mpg.
Did those same hills last year without the trailer.
Maybe five mph faster.
The thing is a freight train. Love love love it. But if I can't work on it myself, I might as well build a 120. Especially with my application.
I'll be searching and studying this and other threads in the future. Pulling the trigger on a rig in the coming months. Then likely regretting it afterword, when the testosterone surges.
Maybe I'll get one of each?
Oooohhhh ..... The fantasies are a starting.....
 
Dear Mr. Him, et all,
Struggle to maintain 60 on a hill with a load?
Hilarious!
I just towed a single axle 6x8 cargo trailer to Idaho a couple months ago. Full of household moving stuff. No idea what it weighed. Would do 60, on a straight away. That's about it.
There were two hills where I was in FIRST gear, 3000 rpms, 25 mph, floored. And dozens where I was barely able to do 40-45.
Never over heated.
Never complained.
AC on the whole time.
Didn't even use any (more than usual) oil.
11 mpg.
Did those same hills last year without the trailer.
Maybe five mph faster.
The thing is a freight train. Love love love it. But if I can't work on it myself, I might as well build a 120. Especially with my application.
I'll be searching and studying this and other threads in the future. Pulling the trigger on a rig in the coming months. Then likely regretting it afterword, when the testosterone surges.
Maybe I'll get one of each?
Oooohhhh ..... The fantasies are a starting.....
I feel your pain in all respects! I commented to my wife (following our last trip in our '96 80 on 35s), that I hoped it would be our last road trip in an 80! A W E S O M E trucks? Yes! But, to say they're underpowered is an understatement! (I've got a 6.0L and 4L80 sitting on the shop floor now, patiently waiting...................)
 

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