Over the past month or two my fuel gauge had been reading erratically once it got to half a tank. It would basically hit half a tank and it would just read empty and turn the light on. I tried running a bottle of Techron through the system and did not help. So I decided to replace it and do it the right way (I didn't hack a hole under the seat). This is on a 2009 GX470, but I believe this applies to all years.
I thought I would share a few pointers as well as the FSM pages that are relevant (and where the TQ for all the fasteners are).
Tools needed:
interior trim tools
10-14mm socket set
OEM fuel level sender 83320-60440
Two identical or very similar small flathead screwdrivers
hammer and large flathead or the SST (special service tool) for the retaining ring
General order:
A. run the gas as low as you are comfortable, not having a gauge can make this exciting! The less gas you have the lighter it is and makes a big difference.
B. Run the front up on ramps or jack stands, the tank is pretty tall. I had plenty of room with the front on ramps and the rear air in the H position.
1. Remove the Driver side rear seat (one nut and 3 bolts) (good directions in the FSM attached)
2. Fold the pass side rear seat up and remove all 3 pieces of trim that cover the rear seat latch points
3. Remove the step in the door way of the drivers side (small screwdriver to remove plugs and 10mm bolts) and the trim at the door sill
4. You can then pull the carpet forward enough to gain access (see photo in post 2) I used a bungee cord to hold the carpet
5. Undo the access panel (3 10 mm bolts) and unplug the white electrical plug, I used long needle nose pliers on this you have to squeeze pretty hard. (you do not need to undo any fuel lines from this access panel)
6. Relieve fuel pressure as outlined in the FSM (or just try to crank it with the fuel pump unplugged)
7.Undo the fuel lines at the front of the gas tank. they are an orange and a green clip inside the frame rail at the drivers door. There is a little nub that you just push the colored clip rotates off. then slide the lines apart. SOME FUEL MAY SPRAY OUT, have a rag over the connection when you separate it
8. There is a similar quick connect that is blue at the rear of the tank on the line to the evap. the disconnect is above the rear axle. remove this one the same as the others and then unclip this line from the clips that hold it to the underside of the body
9. undo the hose clamp at the rear of the tank and slide hose off. (10mm i believe)
10. MOST DIFFICULT PART OF ALL. This is step 12 in the FSM. I could not get this off following their directions. It is blind as this is accessed from below and this port is on top of the tank. I used the two small screwdrivers to release these tabs. I pushed one screwdriver in from the Tank side into the connector first at the 9 o'clock position and then the second screwdriver at the 3 o'clock position. you can feel when the screwdriver slips past the catch. Then you can slide the tube off.
11. confirm all 5 connections are removed and one electrical plug
12. remove skid plate (4 bolts on frame rail, 2 on inside)
13. get a jack under the center of the tank. if it is over 1/4 full you will likely need an additional set of hands to balance the tank
14. remove the two tank straps
15. slide the tank down and forward. that vent hose at the rear has to come forward to come out and not get hung up
Tank is out!
16. use a shop vac and rags to get the area around the pump port as clean as possible
17. Undo the circlips on the fuel lines at the pump port and just push them to the side.
18. Gently use a hammer and a large screwdriver or tool to remove the retaining ring. work your way around and don't just bang on one spot. There are little catches on the top that you will need to push out of the way occasionally. once you get about 1/2 to 3/4 of a turn, use one hand to push down in the center and another hand to rotate the ring. it should spin off easily.
19. The pump assembly just slides up and out. let it drain before removing completely.
20. The fuel sender as a simple plug at the top and a spring finger holding it to the basket, push that and it slides up and off the unit.
21. when reassembling, take time to clean the o ring and make sure it is fully seated in the groove. hold the basket in place (there is a little alignment notch towards the passenger side of the opening and on the pump basket) and screw on the ring.
22. repeat the process in reverse. this should be straightforward. 5 mechanical connections and one electrical.
Good luck! It took me about 2.5 hours total and was not that hard other than the vent on the top of the tank. My fuel gauge works great now. many people say that you might as well replace the entire unit if you have to go in there but I was not that high on miles (140k), and felt it is easy enough to do again if I need to.
I thought I would share a few pointers as well as the FSM pages that are relevant (and where the TQ for all the fasteners are).
Tools needed:
interior trim tools
10-14mm socket set
OEM fuel level sender 83320-60440
Two identical or very similar small flathead screwdrivers
hammer and large flathead or the SST (special service tool) for the retaining ring
General order:
A. run the gas as low as you are comfortable, not having a gauge can make this exciting! The less gas you have the lighter it is and makes a big difference.
B. Run the front up on ramps or jack stands, the tank is pretty tall. I had plenty of room with the front on ramps and the rear air in the H position.
1. Remove the Driver side rear seat (one nut and 3 bolts) (good directions in the FSM attached)
2. Fold the pass side rear seat up and remove all 3 pieces of trim that cover the rear seat latch points
3. Remove the step in the door way of the drivers side (small screwdriver to remove plugs and 10mm bolts) and the trim at the door sill
4. You can then pull the carpet forward enough to gain access (see photo in post 2) I used a bungee cord to hold the carpet
5. Undo the access panel (3 10 mm bolts) and unplug the white electrical plug, I used long needle nose pliers on this you have to squeeze pretty hard. (you do not need to undo any fuel lines from this access panel)
6. Relieve fuel pressure as outlined in the FSM (or just try to crank it with the fuel pump unplugged)
7.Undo the fuel lines at the front of the gas tank. they are an orange and a green clip inside the frame rail at the drivers door. There is a little nub that you just push the colored clip rotates off. then slide the lines apart. SOME FUEL MAY SPRAY OUT, have a rag over the connection when you separate it
8. There is a similar quick connect that is blue at the rear of the tank on the line to the evap. the disconnect is above the rear axle. remove this one the same as the others and then unclip this line from the clips that hold it to the underside of the body
9. undo the hose clamp at the rear of the tank and slide hose off. (10mm i believe)
10. MOST DIFFICULT PART OF ALL. This is step 12 in the FSM. I could not get this off following their directions. It is blind as this is accessed from below and this port is on top of the tank. I used the two small screwdrivers to release these tabs. I pushed one screwdriver in from the Tank side into the connector first at the 9 o'clock position and then the second screwdriver at the 3 o'clock position. you can feel when the screwdriver slips past the catch. Then you can slide the tube off.
11. confirm all 5 connections are removed and one electrical plug
12. remove skid plate (4 bolts on frame rail, 2 on inside)
13. get a jack under the center of the tank. if it is over 1/4 full you will likely need an additional set of hands to balance the tank
14. remove the two tank straps
15. slide the tank down and forward. that vent hose at the rear has to come forward to come out and not get hung up
Tank is out!
16. use a shop vac and rags to get the area around the pump port as clean as possible
17. Undo the circlips on the fuel lines at the pump port and just push them to the side.
18. Gently use a hammer and a large screwdriver or tool to remove the retaining ring. work your way around and don't just bang on one spot. There are little catches on the top that you will need to push out of the way occasionally. once you get about 1/2 to 3/4 of a turn, use one hand to push down in the center and another hand to rotate the ring. it should spin off easily.
19. The pump assembly just slides up and out. let it drain before removing completely.
20. The fuel sender as a simple plug at the top and a spring finger holding it to the basket, push that and it slides up and off the unit.
21. when reassembling, take time to clean the o ring and make sure it is fully seated in the groove. hold the basket in place (there is a little alignment notch towards the passenger side of the opening and on the pump basket) and screw on the ring.
22. repeat the process in reverse. this should be straightforward. 5 mechanical connections and one electrical.
Good luck! It took me about 2.5 hours total and was not that hard other than the vent on the top of the tank. My fuel gauge works great now. many people say that you might as well replace the entire unit if you have to go in there but I was not that high on miles (140k), and felt it is easy enough to do again if I need to.
