GX460 Transmission fluid cooler (2 Viewers)

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A few thoughts..

The A760F is very similar to the A750F used in the GX 470 except the 760 has a 6th gear. Almost all GX 470s had external AT cooler that was not thermostatically controlled.

There is still a coolant loop (E and F in diagram) through the ATF warmer at the thermostatic switch that is also warming up AT.



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A few thoughts..

The A760F is very similar to the A750F used in the GX 470 except the 760 has a 6th gear. Almost all GX 470s had external AT cooler that was not thermostatically controlled.

There is still a coolant loop (E and F in diagram) through the ATF warmer at the thermostatic switch that is also warming up AT.



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Thanks for that! I had a feeling but was too lazy to look for the FSM system diagram and notes.

At zero and below I start the GX and run it for ~10 minutes before I go anywhere. After 10 minutes the ATF does warm up even without operation and no load. Didn't really think it was through PFM (Pure Freaking Magic) and now know why.

After 10 minutes idle
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I decided to give the larger Improved Racing MHX521 cooler a try with their thermostatic filter mount. It's not installed yet as I will have to have a few modifications made to my mounting bracket. Test fitting seems to be promising though. The cooler really won't take up any more room than most of the Hayden setups everyone is running, aside from a few extra inches forward. Fitting the thermostatic filter mount may be a little tougher, though. I'm going to have to fabricate a mount for it so the lines leading to and from the transmission line up just right.

I will be running both inline after the radiators built in cooler/warmer and pin open the warmer/switch on the transmission full time like Acrad mentioned.

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This is where I intend to mount the Improved Racing thermostatic filter mount. With a Wix 51269 it fits in this location, but will take some work to get just right. I am going to run a pair of Filtermag MB-300 magnets on the outside of the WIx filter as a "best of both" option. The magnets are insanely strong on these.

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I know many will see this as nuclear overkill, but I plan on keeping this thing for a very long time and I prefer to get the preventatives out of the way prior to towing and throwing the lift, tires, and bumpers on.
 
That is quite a cooler! Does it have a thermostat in it - or are you leaving the OEM thermostat functional? With my Hayden 678 my rig easily over-cools when it's below freezing outside. Sometimes the fluid does not get over 120F and it will shift kind of harsh. I actually made a cover for the cooler that blocks around 2/3 of it to keep that from happening (I install it in the winter). I'll be switching to a 698 with a thermostat fairly soon.
 
That is quite a cooler! Does it have a thermostat in it - or are you leaving the OEM thermostat functional? With my Hayden 678 my rig easily over-cools when it's below freezing outside. Sometimes the fluid does not get over 120F and it will shift kind of harsh. I actually made a cover for the cooler that blocks around 2/3 of it to keep that from happening (I install it in the winter). I'll be switching to a 698 with a thermostat fairly soon.
The cooler itself doesn't have a built in thermostat, but the filter mount pictured does. This filter mount is designed to always flow fluid through the filter regardless of whether the thermostat is open or closed. It loops back to the transmission until it has reached 160° F, and once it hits 160° F the thermostat begins to open, and by 180° F it opens completely. When the thermostat is closed, it still lets a very small amount of fluid flow to the cooler to prevent air pockets and temperature shock.

I also like the fact that this filter mount has a few different temperature options and it is easy to open up and swap thermostats. They offer a 140° F and 180° F option for $20, so I can fine tune the temp right where I want it.

You can see the thermostat access cover here.

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The cooler itself doesn't have a built in thermostat, but the filter mount pictured does. This filter mount is designed to always flow fluid through the filter regardless of whether the thermostat is open or closed. It loops back to the transmission until it has reached 160° F, and once it hits 160° F the thermostat begins to open, and by 180° F it opens completely. When the thermostat is closed, it still lets a very small amount of fluid flow to the cooler to prevent air pockets and temperature shock.

I also like the fact that this filter mount has a few different temperature options and it is easy to open up and swap thermostats. They offer a 140° F and 180° F option for $20, so I can fine tune the temp right where I want it.

You can see the thermostat access cover here.

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Very nice! That wix filter,filters down to 10 microns. The magnets look massive but that's what you need for a trans filter! Your trans is going to love you long time.
 
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I decided to give the larger Improved Racing MHX521 cooler a try with their thermostatic filter mount. It's not installed yet as I will have to have a few modifications made to my mounting bracket. Test fitting seems to be promising though. The cooler really won't take up any more room than most of the Hayden setups everyone is running, aside from a few extra inches forward. Fitting the thermostatic filter mount may be a little tougher, though. I'm going to have to fabricate a mount for it so the lines leading to and from the transmission line up just right.

I will be running both inline after the radiators built in cooler/warmer and pin open the warmer/switch on the transmission full time like Acrad mentioned.

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This is where I intend to mount the Improved Racing thermostatic filter mount. With a Wix 51269 it fits in this location, but will take some work to get just right. I am going to run a pair of Filtermag MB-300 magnets on the outside of the WIx filter as a "best of both" option. The magnets are insanely strong on these.

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I know many will see this as nuclear overkill, but I plan on keeping this thing for a very long time and I prefer to get the preventatives out of the way prior to towing and throwing the lift, tires, and bumpers on.
Your engine bay looks immaculate! Do you detail it with Q-Tips?? 😆
 
Your engine bay looks immaculate! Do you detail it with Q-Tips?? 😆
Q-Tips and baby wipes are a hell of a combination! Lol

J/K

Funny enough, it's not garaged at all, and we live down a long gravel drive that's a muddy mess after every rain. I'm pretty religious about spraying if off on the weekends, though, and will use the spot free and the blower at the local car wash on the engine bay maybe once every other month or so. I think I just turned over 12,000 miles so it doesn't have that patina just yet!
 
My radiator with 155k miles popped at the seam a couple weeks ago. Long story short, I replaced it with an OEM unit from Bell Lexus along with new hoses and clamps. And while I was doing this, I added a Hayden cooler. I got the Goliath Offroad mount which made for a super easy install and followed GX Bob's video for the install. She’s back together and all happy now.
 
I went the OEM route for the tran cooler cause I'm one of those OEM-or-die types. I also made my decision before I read this whole thread... :(

My temps have dropped around 10° F vs where they hovered prior, and now usually hover around 190-195° F (fully warmed up and driving Utah mountain highways) but on hard, steep pulls, I'll still get to 210° F or so.

If I did it over again, I'd def do the Hayden cooler -- that Goliath mount looks really nice too. Seems I might actually do it over again too cause I pull a 20ft travel trailer sometimes and I'm not convinced the OEM cooler is gonna be enough for those times.

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I went the OEM route for the tran cooler cause I'm one of those OEM-or-die types. I also made my decision before I read this whole thread... :(

My temps have dropped around 10° F vs where they hovered prior, and now usually hover around 190-195° F (fully warmed up and driving Utah mountain highways) but on hard, steep pulls, I'll still get to 210° F or so.

If I did it over again, I'd def do the Hayden cooler -- that Goliath mount looks really nice too. Seems I might actually do it over again too cause I pull a 20ft travel trailer sometimes and I'm not convinced the OEM cooler is gonna be enough for those times.

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You'll likely be fine towing with that setup but with slow 30-40 mph climbs in 3rd at times. Some spots I hit going east (towards Cody, WY) I'd get stuck behind a tractor-trailer doing 7 mph on some switchbacks. Even before I installed my cooler, I was able to keep temps safe with gear selection. I was running stock size tires at the time...looks like you are in the 33-34" camp, which may generate more transmission fluid heat when towing.

Here is what I chose. Cost me less than a tank of gas and I did no drilling.
 
Got to finally try out the Hayden 698, first tow of the year for the Polaris Northstar to shoot Sporting Clays at the "home" club with my shooting buddy. For my needs and use feel it is perfect I wouldn't want to go any smaller. Only pull ~2,500 pounds and primarily level. But the wind... And it is a brick pulling a brick aerodynamically.

Normal temps pre Hayden install to my friends house with no towing.

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No towing, same trip but with cooler installed.

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Today towing same trip with load and strong winds

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Round trip with Hayden cooler but not towing

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Same trip with Hayden 698 and towing

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Yeah MPG sucks but it is actually slightly better than the Taco was. The Hayden makes me happy and pretty sure the GX as well. Never broke 200° where prior to the cooler it was common to run in the 210°-220° range even when not towing.
 
You'll likely be fine towing with that setup but with slow 30-40 mph climbs in 3rd at times. Some spots I hit going east (towards Cody, WY) I'd get stuck behind a tractor-trailer doing 7 mph on some switchbacks. Even before I installed my cooler, I was able to keep temps safe with gear selection. I was running stock size tires at the time...looks like you are in the 33-34" camp, which may generate more transmission fluid heat when towing.

Here is what I chose. Cost me less than a tank of gas and I did no drilling.
Agree, AND use manual shifting as much as possible, both up hill and down hill!
 
Got to finally try out the Hayden 698, first tow of the year for the Polaris Northstar to shoot Sporting Clays at the "home" club with my shooting buddy. For my needs and use feel it is perfect I wouldn't want to go any smaller. Only pull ~2,500 pounds and primarily level. But the wind... And it is a brick pulling a brick aerodynamically.

Normal temps pre Hayden install to my friends house with no towing.

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No towing, same trip but with cooler installed.

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Today towing same trip with load and strong winds

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Round trip with Hayden cooler but not towing

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Same trip with Hayden 698 and towing

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Yeah MPG sucks but it is actually slightly better than the Taco was. The Hayden makes me happy and pretty sure the GX as well. Never broke 200° where prior to the cooler it was common to run in the 210°-220° range even when not towing.
That’s fantastic data. I’ve just started logging my GX temps and I’m topping out around 90°C /192F in the converter not towing. Thus far it is always below coolant temp (as measured by the OBD).

I have not yet logged an interstate highway run so I’m sure it’s much hotter. How much hotter I’m not yet sure. But I’ve got margin with the superior heat rejection of the CSF radiator.
 
That’s fantastic data. I’ve just started logging my GX temps and I’m topping out around 90°C /192F in the converter not towing. Thus far it is always below coolant temp (as measured by the OBD).

I have not yet logged an interstate highway run so I’m sure it’s much hotter. How much hotter I’m not yet sure. But I’ve got margin with the superior heat rejection of the CSF radiator.

My money is on the highway temps being cooler yet, at least mine is. Highway mine runs cooler around 175-180 while towing, the final leg of the trip home is through the second largest metro in Mn. still not huge LOL but stop lights and stop and go. With a hill to climb. That last stretch is the highest temps that I see.

Much of my driving is on County roads at ~60 mph many gravel. A few stop signs here and there but not many and temps are normally low. Same as on the Interstate usually going 72-74 mph. In town ATF pan temps go up at least 20 degrees.

The hottest I've seen the ATF was on the way to Canada last fall and road construction had traffic backed up for 20 minutes with stop and go traffic. It broke 220° and slowly kept climbing to 230°. Once I finally got moving again it went back down. I can tow going up the Mississippi River bluffs on I-90 which are pretty steep and long and the ATF hardly changes temp. It is the stop and go that seems to be an issue with high temps at least from what I've seen in mine. Living in some large city with lots of stop and go traffic can't be very good on these even if not towing. Add in high summer heat and I don't see anything good coming out of it.

Curious about temps with the CSF radiator, I'll be watching for your updates! :cool:
 
My money is on the highway temps being cooler yet, at least mine is. Highway mine runs cooler around 175-180 while towing, the final leg of the trip home is through the second largest metro in Mn. still not huge LOL but stop lights and stop and go. With a hill to climb. That last stretch is the highest temps that I see.

Much of my driving is on County roads at ~60 mph many gravel. A few stop signs here and there but not many and temps are normally low. Same as on the Interstate usually going 72-74 mph. In town ATF pan temps go up at least 20 degrees.

The hottest I've seen the ATF was on the way to Canada last fall and road construction had traffic backed up for 20 minutes with stop and go traffic. It broke 220° and slowly kept climbing to 230°. Once I finally got moving again it went back down. I can tow going up the Mississippi River bluffs on I-90 which are pretty steep and long and the ATF hardly changes temp. It is the stop and go that seems to be an issue with high temps at least from what I've seen in mine. Living in some large city with lots of stop and go traffic can't be very good on these even if not towing. Add in high summer heat and I don't see anything good coming out of it.

Curious about temps with the CSF radiator, I'll be watching for your updates! :cool:
I’ve driven that stretch along the river many times, I have family in Red Wing and we typically drive up the MN side watching for bald eagles.
 
I’ve driven that stretch along the river many times, I have family in Red Wing and we typically drive up the MN side watching for bald eagles.

I will be crossing the Mississippi at Red Wing in the morning for my annual shotgun lessons tune up at Game Unlimited in Hudson, Wi. I prefer to go up the Wi. side and stay away from the Cities.

Spend a lot of time on the River shooting Eagles. Even though they fly over my house often. I heard they taste like chicken but I'm going with fish.

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11 years ago seen some birds in the sky to the South over the river about 20 miles away on a Saturday. Spent 20 years watching them and wasn't going to pay to see them so on Sunday drove up to the top of a bluff on a 2 track where I knew I'd get a good view. Turned out to be the best seat in the house.

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Lot of birds on the Upper Mississippi, of all types
 
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Bumping for some updates. It hasn’t been that hot here yet, so I’m going to be considering temps relative to ambient.

On a longer interstate run when temps were 20C (68F) and speed was at 74mph, the coolant temps are 89C and the trans is running <80C with the converter locked. On the entire trip, I only saw converter temps briefly flash to 92C and that’s always only when passing through the 30mph-40mph range where the converter is unlocked and you’re accelerating. Stop accelerating, the converter locks and temps fall instantly to 86C. In stop-and-go low speed driving I am seeing converter temps flash briefly as high as 95C, but they immediately fall again once you let up and attain steady speed. Pan temps are consistently right around coolant temp and seem never to exceed it.


I’ve never seen converter temps over 95C in a moving vehicle. Only when parked and brake torquing can I spike temps above that, and of course that’s an abuse condition.

It will be interesting to see how hotter ambient temps affect things. On the one hand, the engine cooling fan isn’t even clutching in and the radiator seems to have a LOT of reserve capacity, it’s barely breaking a sweat to keep the coolant temps right at thermostat setting. The trans itself takes a long time to slowly creep up to the temps it does hit, and I wonder how much of that is the trans stat heating it up.


I can’t say how much the CSF radiator helps trans temps, but for now I’m holding off on any thoughts of a trans cooler. I don’t tow and my initial data collection suggest I don’t need a trans cooler— all it would do is have the trans stat constantly trying to warm fluid as the cooler is trying to cool it.
 
Bumping for some updates. It hasn’t been that hot here yet, so I’m going to be considering temps relative to ambient.

On a longer interstate run when temps were 20C (68F) and speed was at 74mph, the coolant temps are 89C and the trans is running <80C with the converter locked. On the entire trip, I only saw converter temps briefly flash to 92C and that’s always only when passing through the 30mph-40mph range where the converter is unlocked and you’re accelerating. Stop accelerating, the converter locks and temps fall instantly to 86C. In stop-and-go low speed driving I am seeing converter temps flash briefly as high as 95C, but they immediately fall again once you let up and attain steady speed. Pan temps are consistently right around coolant temp and seem never to exceed it.


I’ve never seen converter temps over 95C in a moving vehicle. Only when parked and brake torquing can I spike temps above that, and of course that’s an abuse condition.

It will be interesting to see how hotter ambient temps affect things. On the one hand, the engine cooling fan isn’t even clutching in and the radiator seems to have a LOT of reserve capacity, it’s barely breaking a sweat to keep the coolant temps right at thermostat setting. The trans itself takes a long time to slowly creep up to the temps it does hit, and I wonder how much of that is the trans stat heating it up.


I can’t say how much the CSF radiator helps trans temps, but for now I’m holding off on any thoughts of a trans cooler. I don’t tow and my initial data collection suggest I don’t need a trans cooler— all it would do is have the trans stat constantly trying to warm fluid as the cooler is trying to cool it.
Stock or aftermarket radiator, you shouldn't have heat issues. The system works pretty good until heavily tasked. Mine rarely rises above engine coolant temp, even while towing a 4k travel trailer.
 
Do you have the thermostat pinned? The CSF radiator seems to have positive effect on fluid temps.Ive compared it with another member. It definitely runs a tad bit cooler than stock. 86C/187F cruising

On the Hyden 678, With it being in the 90s now here in S.FL it's been hitting low ~170F.
 

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