GX460 Transmission fluid cooler (10 Viewers)

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A few other thoughts you could bypass but keep the stock thermostatic switch open. You'd need to test to see if this would overcool.

Or keep switch open and use something like this to lower the open temperature to 180 degrees


I believe it closes at 165 degrees.

Also take a look at lower images on post #33


There is also a coolant loop that goes through the thermostatic switch to help speed warmups of the AT.
 
A few other thoughts you could bypass but keep the stock thermostatic switch open. You'd need to test to see if this would overcool.

Or keep switch open and use something like this to lower the open temperature to 180 degrees


I believe it closes at 165 degrees.

Also take a look at lower images on post #33


There is also a coolant loop that goes through the thermostatic switch to help speed warmups of the AT.
I might go ahead and try just leaving the stock AT thermostat as is - I'm ok with low 200s as a running temp...will see.
 
[Using OBD Link or Fusion]

I noticed on Tundra Forum they overlaid "Status of the Lock up" with current gear. Ring around gear is lockup indication. Green is in lockup. I currently have a digital gauge with 1=locked and 0=unlocked

I haven't played around with meshing the gauges together yet.

screen_shot_2021_08_08_at_12_15_34_pm_2b8b876fe11cffbe053c44e2b98596a90292ac46.png


My current gear selection on my '12 was a little different PID.

Current gear is in Toyota/Lexus expansion pack -> Network A -> Engine and Electronic Controlled Transmission -> Status of the Shift Status / Lo or Hi

Make sure you try it while driving as mine didn't change with vehicle not running.
 
[Using OBD Link or Fusion]

I noticed on Tundra Forum they overlaid "Status of the Lock up" with current gear. Ring around gear is lockup indication. Green is in lockup. I currently have a digital gauge with 1=locked and 0=unlocked

I haven't played around with meshing the gauges together yet.


My current gear selection on my '12 was a little different PID.

Current gear is in Toyota/Lexus expansion pack -> Network A -> Engine and Electronic Controlled Transmission -> Status of the Shift Status / Lo or Hi

Make sure you try it while driving as mine didn't change with vehicle not running.

This is GREAT - been looking for this info forever in my OBDLink. Thanks.
 
[Using OBD Link or Fusion]

I noticed on Tundra Forum they overlaid "Status of the Lock up" with current gear. Ring around gear is lockup indication. Green is in lockup. I currently have a digital gauge with 1=locked and 0=unlocked

I haven't played around with meshing the gauges together yet.

screen_shot_2021_08_08_at_12_15_34_pm_2b8b876fe11cffbe053c44e2b98596a90292ac46.png


My current gear selection on my '12 was a little different PID.

Current gear is in Toyota/Lexus expansion pack -> Network A -> Engine and Electronic Controlled Transmission -> Status of the Shift Status / Lo or Hi

Make sure you try it while driving as mine didn't change with vehicle not running.
I just recently pulled out my old OBDII dongle that I had in my 100 series Hundy and stuck it in my GX. I went to load Torque (paid) app on my phone thinking I'd have to pay for it again, and some how it remembered me even after changing phones.
I like this setup for your temperature gauges, I'll have to set up one the pages like that.
 
No. Only the liquid cooled one plumbed into the driver side of the radiator. Air cooled AT cooler was never installed stock in any '10-'19 460 in the US. The 470s could be equipped with them if they had tow package IIRC.

2020 with off-road package is the first US 460 year/trim to offer an external AT air cooler.

Quick check: Look through grill and if blank under horns it doesn't have the air cooler.

View attachment 2083130

Here is mine during install of OEM cooler and what it would look like on a fully loaded Canadian GX 460.

View attachment 2083131

Another note... only 3 zone HVAC 460s have the AC condenser fan in first picture. Two zone do not.


Does anyone know if adding this air cooled AT Cooler will cancel my Lexus warranty?

Also, how do you measure AT temp? Do I need to purchase a special gauge? Thanks
 
Does anyone know if adding this air cooled AT Cooler will cancel my Lexus warranty?

Also, how do you measure AT temp? Do I need to purchase a special gauge? Thanks
 
I would not mess with transmission cooling if you are still under warranty. Doubt it would make much difference if you wait to do it after warranty expires.

For AT temps I like my OBDLink MX+, but there are cheaper alternatives out there.
 
My best guess is a warranty is void if the component that fails is in ANY way related to a modification. Example: adding a trans cooler will not void your differentials, or suspension.
Understand that I'm only hypothesizing here. Check with a dealer for clarity.
 
Does anyone know if adding this air cooled AT Cooler will cancel my Lexus warranty?

Also, how do you measure AT temp? Do I need to purchase a special gauge? Thanks
I use my old school Scangauge for monitoring.

My 2018 was under warranty when I installed all the factory transmission cooler parts, but I trust my abilities your YMMV? I have to wonder if they would notice at the dealership that the factory parts are installed?
 
What a great thread - thanks to everyone for the contributions. I just replaced my radiator (2013 GX) and I’m wondering what (if anything) I should be doing to keep my factory cooler (integral to the drivers side of the radiator) working properly. Anything to check? Any fluid refill or top-off needed?

Thinking I’ll eventually install a designated oem cooler like the forum here discusses, but any recommendations on the factory setup would be appreciated.
 
A few other thoughts you could bypass but keep the stock thermostatic switch open. You'd need to test to see if this would overcool.

Or keep switch open and use something like this to lower the open temperature to 180 degrees


I believe it closes at 165 degrees.

Also take a look at lower images on post #33


There is also a coolant loop that goes through the thermostatic switch to help speed warmups of the AT.
Helps warm up and cool as well
 
IMO: A good opportunity to do one of the full AT fluid exchanges via the cooler lines or at least do a single drain and fill with the appropriate "level" check at temp.

I did my last drain and fill when I installed my AT cooler to ensure AT fluid level was correct.
 
IMO: A good opportunity to do one of the full AT fluid exchanges via the cooler lines or at least do a single drain and fill with the appropriate "level" check at temp.

I did my last drain and fill when I installed my AT cooler to ensure AT fluid level was correct.
@Acrad thanks for the insight. After seeing your posts on Club Lexus and reading more about the topic, I'm thinking I'll finish up the cooling system maintenance and then do a single drain and fill at temperature. Any thoughts on how I should handle the *empty* trans cooler that's built into the radiator? If I simply follow the drain and fill process with a check at temperature, is there anything else you'd recommend? Again, appreciate your thoughts!
 
Did lose any fluid when you disconnected the lines? I didn’t lose any when I installed my B&M cooler… all the fluid had drained back into the transmission.
 
I posted this in wrong thread...

I’m a strong believer in multiple changes but even a single drain and fill should beneficial. IMO unless you are going to do a thorough fluid change I would just use some WS fluid, I wouldn’t be comfortable mixing another brand in on a one off drain and fill.

You will want to pin the thermostatic switch open or fluid won’t pass into those empty lines and radiator until close to 200 degrees,

The fluid level check happens closer to 115 degrees.
 
I posted this in wrong thread...

I’m a strong believer in multiple changes but even a single drain and fill should beneficial. IMO unless you are going to do a thorough fluid change I would just use some WS fluid, I wouldn’t be comfortable mixing another brand in on a one off drain and fill.

You will want to pin the thermostatic switch open or fluid won’t pass into those empty lines and radiator until close to 200 degrees,

The fluid level check happens closer to 115 degrees.
Thanks for the insight! I just placed an order for the trans filter, gasket, and associated o-rings. I'm planning to (1) drain the current fluid (2) fill with new fluid + 1/2 quart to replace what is missing in the trans cooler + 1/2 quart additional (3) check the level at temperature. Will let the group know how it goes. Thanks!
 
Does anyone have a link to an install thread of one of these? Considering trying to install this myself, but have little experience in this realm.
 
Does anyone have a link to an install thread of one of these? Considering trying to install this myself, but have little experience in this realm.
Lots of information in this thread:

 

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