Media GX460 / Prado150 pic thread (10 Viewers)

Photo/Video/Audio threads

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.

265/70R17s usually fit without too much heat molding of the front fender liners, and usually fit in the spare tire well. But tires vary in actual size. Tire Rack publishes measured sizes. Wheels with more offset will make the tires rub more.

KO2s run small for their nominal size. The 265/70r17 Falken Rubitreks I put on would not fit in the spare well with the Lexus class IV hitch. I ended up putting KDSS spacers on the anti roll bar which made enough room. Someone else here has exactly the same tires and wheels I have and had no problem. I also had to heat hold the front liners a few times to get all the rub out.

Yeah it's one of those things where we can't be completely certain as manufacturing tolerances really dictate what fits and doesn't fit. I had 265/70/17 Rubitreks as well and they fit without any mods. Barely, but they fit. Anything under these are almost sure to fit, but yeah.

PXL_20211108_181058994.jpg
PXL_20211108_181048328.jpg
 
1. Someone else can answer this for you as I don't have that answer.
2. I run 275/70R18 MT's with a 2" lift, BMC and fender liner massaging and still get a little bit of rub sometimes when offroad.
3. Not sure if it's necessary but it won't hurt. I've had an axle breather kit on my bench for a while that I need to install.
4. For light offroading, those will likely work but for piece of mind (or if you plan to play in the rocks at all) get a full set of steel plates. I run the full Bud Built set. It has a "door" for the oil plug and filter so you don't have to remove the whole skid to do an oil change.
5. I run the SSO sliders.

For reference, this is my 2013......
View attachment 3506609
Is this the bridge that brings you up to Imogene and silver basin jeep trail?
 
IMG_5121.JPG


Thanks for all the feedback to my lost welcome post.

Just Installed TRD Pro Rims and Falken Wildpeaks AT3W tires in 265/70/17 C Load. I have a bit of rub in reverse so have to figure out where it's rubbing.

I also bought the same rim/tire for the spare but it won't fit, even when deflated to 20psi. I have the factory hitch on there.

Any ideas for the spare to get it to fit?

Anyone local to LA/OC that has a heat gun and experience with fixing their rubbing tires that wants to help a new member out?
 
View attachment 3508800

Thanks for all the feedback to my lost welcome post.

Just Installed TRD Pro Rims and Falken Wildpeaks AT3W tires in 265/70/17 C Load. I have a bit of rub in reverse so have to figure out where it's rubbing.

I also bought the same rim/tire for the spare but it won't fit, even when deflated to 20psi. I have the factory hitch on there.

Any ideas for the spare to get it to fit?

Anyone local to LA/OC that has a heat gun and experience with fixing their rubbing tires that wants to help a new member out?

I just did the very same exact thing a couple of weeks ago. I went with the new TRD Pro caps with the red circle instead of the previous TRD SEMA caps.

53380755273_289d88b3f5_b.jpg


Rubbing on mine was from the inside fender bolt head on the steps which seems to be the most common place to rub. Didn't sound like that is where it was coming from but it was. And first noticed mine in reverse with hard turn and articulation from going over difference in height between my paver brick driveway and the higher road surface. There are a couple of threads about it on here and also Club Lexus and how to remove the offending bolt and use zip ties to pull the liner back. Not hard to do at all and you can pull it back a long ways.

I have the factory hitch as well and they had to loosen it and pull it all the way back to make the spare fit. It fits on mine but they can vary based on factory manufacturing variations. Worth a try to loosen the hitch and try to pull it back as far as it can go. Worked on mine.

Make sure you put that spare into your tire rotation at every oil change, that is why we got 5 of them right?! Surprises me how many never do or even rotate their tires at all. Then complain when the tires get loud after a couple of years LOL.
 
Replace the bolt (back side of the fender liner) with something with a flatter head.
Most of my rub was on the rear side of the fender well and would happen when backing up with the steering almost to the stops. I used a HF heat gun on high, a broomstick levered against the tire, and a double thickness leather glove. Heat the plastic until it can deform some under pressure, then push it in and hold it until it cools enough to keep its new shape. It's pretty forgiving and you can keep doing it until you get it right.

For the spare you can try loosening the hitch bolts and sliding it back as far as it will go. You might get some more clearance. I ended up putting KDSS spacers on the anti sway bar mounts. That added about an inch of clearance and my spare goes in easily now. With stock suspension it will look like the bar hangs down now but it's higher than the spare.
 
Replace the bolt (back side of the fender liner) with something with a flatter head.
Most of my rub was on the rear side of the fender well and would happen when backing up with the steering almost to the stops. I used a HF heat gun on high, a broomstick levered against the tire, and a double thickness leather glove. Heat the plastic until it can deform some under pressure, then push it in and hold it until it cools enough to keep its new shape. It's pretty forgiving and you can keep doing it until you get it right.

For the spare you can try loosening the hitch bolts and sliding it back as far as it will go. You might get some more clearance. I ended up putting KDSS spacers on the anti sway bar mounts. That added about an inch of clearance and my spare goes in easily now. With stock suspension it will look like the bar hangs down now but it's higher than the spare.
Thank you for the feedback.

Do you have pics of the KDSS spacer thing you’re talking about?

Another weird thing I noticed today when looking at the spare area, it looks like the factory 19” wheels might have been rubbing on the KDSS bar, attached picture

IMG_5150.jpeg
 
I just did the very same exact thing a couple of weeks ago. I went with the new TRD Pro caps with the red circle instead of the previous TRD SEMA caps.

53380755273_289d88b3f5_b.jpg


Rubbing on mine was from the inside fender bolt head on the steps which seems to be the most common place to rub. Didn't sound like that is where it was coming from but it was. And first noticed mine in reverse with hard turn and articulation from going over difference in height between my paver brick driveway and the higher road surface. There are a couple of threads about it on here and also Club Lexus and how to remove the offending bolt and use zip ties to pull the liner back. Not hard to do at all and you can pull it back a long ways.

I have the factory hitch as well and they had to loosen it and pull it all the way back to make the spare fit. It fits on mine but they can vary based on factory manufacturing variations. Worth a try to loosen the hitch and try to pull it back as far as it can go. Worked on mine.

Make sure you put that spare into your tire rotation at every oil change, that is why we got 5 of them right?! Surprises me how many never do or even rotate their tires at all. Then complain when the tires get loud after a couple of years LOL.
Thanks for the feedback. I found a thread on replacing that rear bolt with a flat head and my rubbing is gone, although I still think I need to move the front fenders out a little because it’s very close.

Do you know what torque spec they used for the factory hitch when they moved?
 
If you crank up the spare without pulling it to the rear it can rest against the anti sway bar.

KDSS spacers below (the rears are the lower two and you don't need the front). As far as I know the different vendors all sell effectively the same part.

0833A681-B3C4-4C22-9F65-AC0567D86193.jpeg
 
If you crank up the spare without pulling it to the rear it can rest against the anti sway bar.

KDSS spacers below (the rears are the lower two and you don't need the front). As far as I know the different vendors all sell effectively the same part.

0833A681-B3C4-4C22-9F65-AC0567D86193.jpeg

I just spent a couple of hours moving the hitch as far back as I could but even with that and lowering the tires to 25psi, it still won't fit and hits the sway bar. Im not even sure the KDSS spacers would help. Given that even the factory spare might have been rubbing on the sway bar from the picture in my last reply, it seems the location for the spare is more tight than normal.

Im thinking about taking it to a muffler shop and seeing if they can grind the inside of the factory hitch down as there are some protruding metal pieces. That should give me like a quarter of an inch of extra space.
 
I just spent a couple of hours moving the hitch as far back as I could but even with that and lowering the tires to 25psi, it still won't fit and hits the sway bar. Im not even sure the KDSS spacers would help. Given that even the factory spare might have been rubbing on the sway bar from the picture in my last reply, it seems the location for the spare is more tight than normal.

Im thinking about taking it to a muffler shop and seeing if they can grind the inside of the factory hitch down as there are some protruding metal pieces. That should give me like a quarter of an inch of extra space.
The KDSS spacers add quite a bit of clearance because of how they change the angle of the bar. The cross part moves forward. Like I said I suspect your spare was rubbing because it wasn't pulled all the way to the rear when it was cranked up. You can unbolt the KDSS bar at the center mounts, swing it down an inch and a half (roughly the thickness of the spacers) and see for yourself.

I don't think a shop is going to grind metal off a trailer hitch for liability reasons.

If you can get by with the reduced towing capacity, you could remove the class IV hitch and replace it with a class III (5000 lb towing capacity/500lb drawbar). The Draw-Tite version looks to have a little more spare tire clearance than the Curt. I don't know how much clearance that adds.
 
Thanks for the feedback. I found a thread on replacing that rear bolt with a flat head and my rubbing is gone, although I still think I need to move the front fenders out a little because it’s very close.

Do you know what torque spec they used for the factory hitch when they moved?

They did say that the factory hitch was a beast and that they struggled with it. Being a retired Navy Nuclear Machinist Mate Chief I'm going to go with the highly technical term reef on it until the nut sacks twitches once. A double twitch is at the border line of becoming a hernia, it is a fine line.

Seeing how the hitch weighs 85 pounds IIRC I'd say you can pull on it pretty hard. It is stout. The trick may be keeping it pulled back to full extension then tightening the bolts to hold it in place without pulling it back in.

The KDSS spacers add quite a bit of clearance because of how they change the angle of the bar. The cross part moves forward. Like I said I suspect your spare was rubbing because it wasn't pulled all the way to the rear when it was cranked up. You can unbolt the KDSS bar at the center mounts, swing it down an inch and a half (roughly the thickness of the spacers) and see for yourself.

I don't think a shop is going to grind metal off a trailer hitch for liability reasons.

If you can get by with the reduced towing capacity, you could remove the class IV hitch and replace it with a class III (5000 lb towing capacity/500lb drawbar). The Draw-Tite version looks to have a little more spare tire clearance than the Curt. I don't know how much clearance that adds.

I suspect the spare wasn't snugged up tight as well. Although with hard use off road most spares will get some rubbing eventually. But yeah seems like more times than not using the spare tire ratcheting tools most assume as soon as it stops it is good enough, and it isn't tight at that point IME.

I keep going back and forth on the Class 3 hitch as well.

Waiting on my Go North AC Condenser skid plate to get here before I chop that low hanging chin on the front. And Expedition One sliders to come in so I can get rid of those low hanging side steps. But that rear end and hitch every time I look at it....

Have a drop hitch on the Taco to pull my trailer and Polaris Ranger. It sits just about where the factory hitch does on the GX and I bang it at least half a dozen times during September and October in Canada and the North Shore of Lake Superior every year. And at least another half dozen times dig a trench with it on Tote roads that aren't hard Canadian Shelf. Between the hitch and wiring connections I've been half arsed looking at replacing it with a Class 3. But then there is still the low hanging exhaust. Not sure yet what I'm going to do on the rear yet, one of the reasons I'm hanging out on here to see what others have done.
 
Unofficial GXL meetup at the local bigbox store
IMG_3748.jpeg



Finance manager approved picking up a brother from another mother. 1996 D1 5MT 300tdi, named him Chahles because he's so posh ;). Maybe my tools will stop collecting so much dust now?
IMG_2117.jpeg
 
Last edited:

Users who are viewing this thread

Back
Top Bottom