Group Buy - 100 Series Headers (2 Viewers)

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Ok! So am I the first one who got the new header install? Did I win?? Any who, here is the run down. First, I have to say the header is well made and I think it's well worth the price! No more ticking sound, which is one of the main reason I get it. After I have a talk with my friend who did the installation. He said the install really isn't that difficult. It's not difficult once you find a way to shoes horn the driver side header into that tight space. One thing he did was disconnect the steering link and loosen one of the engine mount. The passenger side has lots of room to work on. With my TLC having over 100k miles on the clock (I'm sure there are few of us do), and with many off road trips. you do have to expect some hard to remove or broken bolts and nuts. So plan ahead. May be have some new nuts and bolts as a backup. He did have to cut one stud to be able to remove the passenger side header. He also broke two SnapOn socket as he was trying to remove the rusty nuts. He said I was very lucky with no broken studs or nuts on the driver side. The front most hardware are the most difficult to reach. He said unless you have a good set of tools and hoist, he would have paid someone to deal with it.
Now, on to performance wise. From his shop to my home (15-20miles) of local and highway driving. There is definitely a noticeable up in power. I don't have a dyno, so I can't tell you exact. There is definitely a up on torque, as I enter the freeway on ramp. I also notice the motor response to my throttle input much quicker. It's feels like the truck is much more willing to go even at highway speed. I will be towing in the next month to see if there are any difference compare to OEM header.
BTW, the OEM header looks like a joke compare to this new header. If your TLC is ticking away, I would seriously thinking about this upgrade. I would rate this as the second best investment (first being the purchase of the TLC) to TLC. I took a few pics with my iphone. Hope I can successfully posted! :clap:
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Also, I asked my friend to see if he's willing to give us a discount on the installation since he now know the trick to do it. He said he is willing to do the install for $400 if you are willing to drop the truck off for the day. Let me know if any of you So Cal local TLC want to have him install. I can get you his info.
 
Great job schow!

Did y'all do any penetrating oil ahead of time? I'm not worried about getting it in there, but I really don't want to deal with a broken stud!

Regarding the hoist, my thought was to use either a small scissor jack or small bottle jack to push up on the block from below and then support it with wood blocks while doing the install.

Wasn't there a post by a tech somewhere about having a specific socket length to get off the stud nuts? Something about a medium length socket with a swivel? I can't find the post...
 
-We did use penetrating oil. But it was on so tight with all the rust from road salt, river crossing, dirty and mud. It will take some time, but it do-able.
-The hoist is mainly lift the truck, not the motor. it's much easier to work with when the truck is at your eye level. You do have to tilt the motor to gain access to the driver side header.
-Regarding the socket. The prviosue post did mention a medium length 14mm socket. And yes, that medium length socket does help, especially to use on the forward most mounting nut.
 
Thanks for the info and the pictures. I am doing the pbr blaster everyday for a week prior to attempting the install.

I wonder if the underhood temps go down and if fuel economy is better?

We need a way to get more air in, like a ram air injection since we now have air flowing out more easily.
 
That is one thing pop up in my mind yesterday as I was driving home. The question is does our TLC learn our driving? Like Bimmer and other european car, whenever we did an upgrade, we would want to unhook the battery for a day or so and let it reset it's memory. Then the next time you hook the battery up again, the car will re-learn all the setting again.
 
-We did use penetrating oil. But it was on so tight with all the rust from road salt, river crossing, dirty and mud. It will take some time, but it do-able.
-The hoist is mainly lift the truck, not the motor. it's much easier to work with when the truck is at your eye level. You do have to tilt the motor to gain access to the driver side header.
-Regarding the socket. The prviosue post did mention a medium length 14mm socket. And yes, that medium length socket does help, especially to use on the forward most mounting nut.

Oh, that type of hoist! I was thinking you mean an engine hoist.

I'm thinking of getting some new nuts just for good measure. The other think Nick mentioned was to use Anti-Seize on all threads.

How did your gaskets look? Any problems with the re-use?

Thanks for the feedback!
 
I wonder if the underhood temps go down and if fuel economy is better?

We need a way to get more air in, like a ram air injection since we now have air flowing out more easily.

I was worried about the opposite as it looks like the heat shields go away. Does the ceramic coating help to keep the heat contained in the system?

I remember back in the 80's people wrapping headers with thermal tape... is that not done anymore?

Regarding improved breathing, is anyone using K&N?
 
schow, is there any change in noise levels? ie, louder during idle/acceleration/cruising? thanks :cheers:

edit: i'm assuming you only upgraded the headers, and did not add "hi flow" cats, larger pipes or aftermarket muffler. if you did, please also mention that ;)
 
schow, is there any change in noise levels? ie, louder during idle/acceleration/cruising? thanks :cheers:

edit: i'm assuming you only upgraded the headers, and did not add "hi flow" cats, larger pipes or aftermarket muffler. if you did, please also mention that ;)


FWIW I believe the 100 Series OEM cats are relatively high/unrestricted flow...
 
Does anyone have a part number or something to identify the engine studs we may need in case of breakage? Are they readily available at the local auto parts store? Thanks,
 
Does anyone have a part number or something to identify the engine studs we may need in case of breakage? Are they readily available at the local auto parts store? Thanks,

I just had Onur order studs (to have on hand just in case), nuts (FSM states to replace the exhaust manifold nuts...not an option for mine though ;)) and gaskets (header to cat and head to header). However I don't have part #'s yet.
 
My exhaust system is fully stock. As far as I can hear with both front window down, other than the ticking noise are now gone, there is no difference compare to OEM header, which is a good thing for me.
 
I just had Onur order studs (to have on hand just in case), nuts (FSM states to replace the exhaust manifold nuts...not an option for mine though ;)) and gaskets (header to cat and head to header). However I don't have part #'s yet.

Ya, I saw that in the FSM. However, Nick says that the OEM composite metal gaskets should be just fine for re-use. Did schow reuse his? Would we be dollars and time ahead to install new just in case?
 
I reused both gasket. As Nick mention to me when I pick up the header at his place, the metal gasket can be reuse and not necessary need to be change.
 
Ya, I saw that in the FSM. However, Nick says that the OEM composite metal gaskets should be just fine for re-use. Did schow reuse his? Would we be dollars and time ahead to install new just in case?

I'm old school on the gasket thing; but the intake and exhaust gaskets on our 100's don't seem to take an impression or set.

IMO for what they cost and given the sheer amount of labor for either exhaust or intake manifold R&R related jobs I just use new gaskets.
 
I'm old school on the gasket thing; but the intake and exhaust gaskets on our 100's don't seem to take an impression or set.

IMO for what they cost and given the sheer amount of labor for either exhaust or intake manifold R&R related jobs I just use new gaskets.

Good point spresso.

Has anyone got a quote for the four needed gaskets?
 

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