Ground wire help (1 Viewer)

[ariff]

I was working on some steering components tonight and noticed the ground wire that has multiple connections from under the charcoal canister, to behind the coil, then up to the intake and engine hanger. Two of the wires have clips, which one of mine broke and I noticed the wire was also cracked in a few places. Looks like I should replace it. I figure I can just make a new one. Does anyone happen to know the wire gauge size? Looks to be about 12-10GA. I figure I really don't need the connectors on there, do I? Anyhow here is a pic of the wire.

 

[baldilocks]

I just moved those grounds so as to not be in my way where they had been for 28 years. My insulation cracked near the terminals too. I’d say your looking at 10ga. If/when I make replacements I think I’d go to 8ga. Simply for the ruggedness of a larger wire and terminals.

 

[LandLocked93]

I think they are 12ga, but thick strand type.
What is your thought if not using the connectors? Being ground cables, their secure connection is paramount.

 

[ariff]

Yeah for now I just repaired the broken connector with a male\female spade connector I had laying around. Removed the bad section of wire where the insulation was broken and replaced it with a piece of 10GA wire and a new ring terminal. I think this will work for now..

 

[LandLocked93]

Looks good.
Do you have something to seal the spade connection?
Or be sure to mount the joint with the female end pointing down.
Big gap there. Can collect alot of debris, quickly. Corroding the joint.

 

[Feistl]

Just a tip...

Poor grounds can be really hard to diagnosis and lead you down a path of insanity trying to resolve symptoms.

Personally on every vehicle I’ve ever owned I’ve upgraded a bunch of wiring...
Eg out a battery terminal fuse on, run upgraded copper from battery to starter, and battery to alternator, then upgraded the ground from the battery to engine block, chassis and body.

I personally have purchased large quantities of stainless steel crimps and a 12t crimping tool. Add to that a bunch of various sized welding cable all wrapped up in new convoluted tubing.
Maybe costs $100 per vehicle, but just helps rule out a bunch of issues down the track.
Remember, all the wiring (including fusible links) is 25+ years old and a bad connection can leave you stranded. So it’s a preventative maintenance item I recommend doing properly from the start....

 

[ariff]

Looks good.
Do you have something to seal the spade connection?
Or be sure to mount the joint with the female end pointing down.
Big gap there. Can collect alot of debris, quickly. Corroding the joint.

The joint does not seem any larger than the original connection.. I will keep an eye on it. I thought about just eliminating all the quick disconnects. I don't think they are really needed.

 

[ariff]

Just a tip...

Poor grounds can be really hard to diagnosis and lead you down a path of insanity trying to resolve symptoms.

Personally on every vehicle I’ve ever owned I’ve upgraded a bunch of wiring...
Eg out a battery terminal fuse on, run upgraded copper from battery to starter, and battery to alternator, then upgraded the ground from the battery to engine block, chassis and body.

I personally have purchased large quantities of stainless steel crimps and a 12t crimping tool. Add to that a bunch of various sized welding cable all wrapped up in new convoluted tubing.
Maybe costs $100 per vehicle, but just helps rule out a bunch of issues down the track.
Remember, all the wiring (including fusible links) is 25+ years old and a bad connection can leave you stranded. So it’s a preventative maintenance item I recommend doing properly from the start....

I have thought about doing this. So far I am not having any strange issues. I did clean and reconnect all my engine bay grounds awhile back. My Fusible link is brand new, but all the grounds are original to the truck. Any chance you have a detailed list of what you use and all the connections you replace?
Thanks!

 

[BILT4ME]

Thread Hijack:

Does anyone have any photos of the FACTORY mounting locations for the ground wires for the engine to the frame, engine to body, or any of the under-hood ground wires?

I was doing my entire cooling system this week and when I disconnected what I thought was a factory ground wire from the head to the cab, I discovered it was a "homemade" cable and where it connected still had all the paint intact.

This may explain some of the apparent grounding issues I'm having with windows, headlights, and general operation.

When I'm driving down the highway in the dark of night and I have on my headlights, hi beams and my accessory driving lights, when I trigger the window "up" when it's already in the "up" position, my headlights and driving lights get BRIGHTER. This indicates poor grounding.

I need to fix this issue and want to do it kinda properly.

 

[BILT4ME]

Never mind. I answered my own question:

 

[Somebodyelse5]

for anyone that comes across this... upgrading the grounds is a huge improvement. I replaced the grounds shown above with 4 awg marine tinned cable and copper lugs.... pretty significant difference in voltage drop vs factory.