Builds Grizzly Clint's 2010 GX460 build (1 Viewer)

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Yes. Took the kids for the day. The park was nice, the water section though had way too many people.
We went back in June but not the water park. We are likely going back for it in August. I'm sure it'll be packed.
 
Ok, I've had enough. I need to get these weather stripping things in the windows. Just look what it's doing to my girl's windows.

I cannot find a part # to save my life...

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Ok, I've had enough. I need to get these weather stripping things in the windows. Just look what it's doing to my girl's windows.

I cannot find a part # to save my life...
You couldn't find them in the FSM?
 
If you are looking for OEM external belt moldings

[Window Belt Moldings] - Window external
PN: 75712-60090 / Driver door
PN: 75711-60090 / Front Passenger door
PN: 75721-60090 / Right Rear Door
PN: 75722-60090 / Left Rear Door
 
If you are looking for OEM external belt moldings

[Window Belt Moldings] - Window external
PN: 75712-60090 / Driver door
PN: 75711-60090 / Front Passenger door
PN: 75721-60090 / Right Rear Door
PN: 75722-60090 / Left Rear Door
It's the internal one that's causing the issue on the inside of the window.
 
Front Left

Front Right
Thank you! Sucky part is taking off the door panels again for the fourth time. I guess I'll sound deaden it this time too
 
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Guess what came today?! Looking forward to the install, well looking forward to not having to clean my windows like almost daily.

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Oh, and this happened today.

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Had a little free time this morning and I decided to use my level 100 redneck science skill and finally address my tire rubbing issues. WITH RIVETS!! And a little more targeting trimming.

Pics or it didn't happen you say?

Rivets installed, no trimming yet.
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Just look at the depth difference here:
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On the passenger side the shallowness of the back rivet is quite noticeable:
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On the step 2, the trimming. I trimmed a little more on the drivers side because I apparently do more left hand turning by looking at the rear bolt head and that section of the running board trim:
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Here's a before trimming shot to show the rubbing location. And the tools I used.

I used the dykes to cut the stems since my rivet gun didn't auto cut them for some reason. Then on the outboard rivets inside the recesses I used a punch to flatten out the rivet stem ends since I couldn't get a file in there. For the inner ones a file was easy pickens to flatten and smooth it out.

Tip: DO NOT USE TIN SNIPS. It will twist and pull the whole rivet out and damage your cutters.

Note: You'll need a hell of a lot of grip strength to cut those rivet stems with dykes. Grip and press then rotate around. After a half dozen times you'll cut the stem.

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Close up of the rivet package.

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One rivet came out, the holes were worn anyway so I had to trim the back side of it. The front rivet is holding strong and the other side is still good. We went driving up some knarly trails up some big mountains and I'm confident the other rivets are going to be good to go for a while. If they pop out I'll just devise another redneck science solution.

These General tires have more aggressive tread towards the sidewall and I think that's the issue because the Nittos didn't quite rub that bad.

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One rivet came out, the holes were worn anyway so I had to trim the back side of it. The front rivet is holding strong and the other side is still good. We went driving up some knarly trails up some big mountains and I'm confident the other rivets are going to be good to go for a while. If they pop out I'll just devise another redneck science solution.

These General tires have more aggressive tread towards the sidewall and I think that's the issue because the Nittos didn't quite rub that bad.

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You may need to use "fender" washers, small inside diameter for the rivet, but large O.D. for more area to hold the liner.
 
You may need to use "fender" washers, small inside diameter for the rivet, but large O.D. for more area to hold the liner.
Hmmm interesting and good idea. If these others come out I'll give that a go. I already trimmed the bent piece you see in the image. I'm starting to think my alignment might be off.
 
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Hmmm interesting and good idea. If these others come out I'll give that a go. I already trimmed the bent piece you see in the image. I'm starting to think my alignment might be off.
Also, fender washers are really cheap, so getting a box of them won't brake the bank.
I suggest if you do get them, get stainless steel, for obvious reasons.
 
Hard to see, but this is what we built. Little steel L-bracket that ties into an existing body bolt behind the body molding plastic. It's threaded and a bolt goes thru the OEM plastic clip into it, with a big washer.
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Here's what I ended up doing on the drivers side. I wonder if I need to buy a new liner then try a better solution.

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For the next step after the interior lights once we moved to the new house was tackling the hyper flash from changing out the turn indicator bulbs to LEDs. For that I built my own harness. I've got the materials to build two more but I may just hold off and keep these parts as spares.

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Ok, so, to update my thread with some important information regarding my Smart Tap installation with my custom built wiring harness. Going from the factory 16-pin down to 8-pins on the flasher module has completely rendered my trailer 7-pin and 4-pin wiring harnesses inoperable. I finally got around to get started installing more brake and turn indicator LEDs in the rear and decided to test each pin for function and low and behold everything does not work.

My choices are;
  1. Build a separate harness to run just those missing wires to the factory flash relay box
  2. Install an add-a-circuit for each of the brake light, turn indicator, and hazard flasher
  3. See if a Smart Tap for a 4Runner exists
  4. Something else I'm not thinking of?
I'm not keen on splicing any part of the factory wiring harness NOR am I keen on installing resisters for the LED turn indicators because I'll lose the tap indicate feature of the Smart Tap.
 

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