Greyscale's Pig (1 Viewer)

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Joined
Feb 21, 2008
Threads
8
Messages
48
Location
Seattle/Portland
Well I just bought a 1978 FJ55. Originally smurf blue, now green. Very little visible rust, bucket seats, power steering mod, and more.

Of course I had to pick a day that was pouring rain after having a week of sun to try and drive it home. My stupid ass decided it'd be a good idea to drive it an hour back with a broken front shock mount, bald 33" tires, and questionable brakes. I know, idiot, flame away.
Made it half way before the weather got worse and maybe I shouldn't be driving before it's insured.
So I'm waiting on a tow now.

Pictures to come when I finally get it home. Plans are to turn it into a camping/expo rig. Going to fix the sloppiness in the front end first thing as well as tackle the brakes and put new tires on it.

Any advice and criticism is welcome. :p
 
Pictures! :pig:

IMAG0289.jpg


IMAG0288.jpg
 
Thanks. I might put the stock grill and indicators back on at some point, but for right now it looks alright if a bit more unusual.

The first things i'm going to fix are the sloppy steering and the crappy brakes. Currently the brake peddle does nothing until it almost hits the floor. Right now i'm assuming the master cylinder is bad, since the symptoms seem to fit.
 
It's a good time to plan how far you want to go with it, to avoid doing things two or three times.

If power steering is in the future, you may consider the options, since some use the rods/ rod ends and the center arm, that are probaby causing your sloppy steering, others don't.

Same with master cylinder and brake booster (which would be worth testing, too). There are options, but if intake or carb change is inevitable, better choices to save space.

You're in the right spot, regardless, since more Pig specific knowledge here than anywhere on the planet.

Since POs have usually hacked these up, take a bunch of pics under the hood, find the casting number on the block and post, since it'll be asked for.
 
It's already had power steering and a Webber carb swapped in, as well as fully de-smogged. My plan for now is to get it to what I consider drivable, and then fix some of the cancer and other small issues.

Engine bay:


Block:


Carb and Brake Master/booster:


Power Steering Pump and Box setup (including missing/broken shock mount):

 
not broken. it was torched out to put the power steering box in. manual gearbox mounted with shock

looks like a good base. get to building
 
not broken. it was torched out to put the power steering box in. manual gearbox mounted with shock

looks like a good base. get to building

The previous owner claims it broke off when he was out wheeling. It's an aftermarket hoop style mount which was put on when the power steering conversion was done. Currently it's sitting in the back of the truck until I can get my hands on a welder to put it back on.
 
Cool ride:)
 
I washed the moss and dirt off the pig today and made sure all the tires were aired up. Found a few more rust spots I didn't notice before, and got a good look at the larger body issues. The floor I can patch in with a little work and everything else is small patches, but i'm not so sure about saving the bottoms of the drivers side doors. I'll worry about that when I get to it.

Also found out part of the cause of my sloppy steering, the box had come loose from the frame a little bit. Tightened up the bolts and there was a noticeable improvement. The shaft itself still has a lot of play though.

Inspected the brakes and lines and I can't see any leaks or obvious issues. Might test a few more things before ordering a new master cylinder this weekend.

Still not sure what my end goal is beyond getting it drivable again. :cool::steer:
 
Well I replaced the master cylinder, replaced a corroded hardline, and bleed the brakes three times. Brakes still are extremely soft and don't grab until the pedal is on the floor. Any ideas?
 
Well I replaced the master cylinder, replaced a corroded hardline, and bleed the brakes three times. Brakes still are extremely soft and don't grab until the pedal is on the floor. Any ideas?
If the lines were corroded then chances are the wheel cylinders are too. Pull the drums and watch the shoes while someone GENTLY presses the brakes. If the shoes move, chances are they are just out of adjustment. If they don't move, you need wheel cylinders.
 
remember, the wheel cylinders all need to be adjusted the same number of turns as their partner.
 

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