Green LX470 building for adventure

[neilsen100]

Blower fan motor and in cabin air filters

Over the weekend I tackled two small projects. I had been putting these off because I didn't understand how easy they are and thought it would take much longer. I can honestly say I've spent more time on MUD reading about the blower fan than the time I spent removing, cleaning, and reinstalling.

We've had a consistent squeak coming from the blower fan which started about 6 months ago. Based on the noise I was convinced that a bearing was bad and the whole unit would need to be replaced. Three screws and the fan drops from just behind the glove box. There is an electrical connection that needs to be removed, I found it easiest to do this before unscrewing the unit itself. The screws take either a Torx (don't know exact size) or flathead. I used a flathead.

In the fan blades was a single leaf, about the size of a nickel. I handed the fan to my wife who dumped the little leaf so quickly I didn't even see it, it just blew away. Each fan blade still had a great deal of caked on dust which we scraped off to about 85% clean. Before reinstalling the fan we did hook it up and run it. All seemed fine. After screwing the fan blower back into the cruiser the squeak was gone for 2 days. The squeak came back a little and each time my wife kicked the fan, the noise would stop.

It's been two weeks now since we did this job and the squeak has been gone completely in the last 10 days. I'm still don't completely understand what exactly causes the noise, but I am happy that it is much better so for the time being I'm calling this fixed.

At the same time I pulled the glove box and replaced the in cabin air filters. I did check them a year ago at which time they looked pretty good. You can see from the picture the last year they've done their job. I'm glad I replaced them.

One last note. I keep a set of JIS screwdrivers with the cruiser at all times. A Philips head driver works fine but it isn't the correct tool. If you like tools, want to geek out on the little things of your cruiser, or even just want to support one of the great vendors here on MUD, take a look at @NLXTACY site absolute-wits-end.com Joey is now carrying a variety of Vessel JIS drivers and driver sets. There are some great options at great prices.

A JIS driver is also the correct tool for any Shimano bicycle part that looks like a Philips head.

 

[yotasavg]

Nice work, mine just started squeaking, probably time for me to do this job

 

[neilsen100]

Dissent front bumper

Installed Dissent front bumper. Went full steel, turn signal bullet lights, fog lamps, and small stinger bar. No winch at this point but perhaps in the future. With Ben doing the installation it went quickly and perfectly. So glad to round out the look and function with Dissent at both ends.

Before and after shot

The pieces laid out before installation

Inside of the frame channel. You can see the threaded nuts inside which the mounting bolts thread into. Also nice to know that my frame is rust free and clean

Spent the very next night camping on the Lower Yuba

 

[neilsen100]

Resonator Delete

Since having the Dissent rear bumper, the clearance has been fantastic. However, the resonator and exhaust was now the lowest hanging item. On a trail I don't even remember the exhaust tip took a bit of crunching and the rear most resonator mount would rattle against the bumper, particularly during start up. Reading here on MUD that others have simply removed the resonator I choose to give this a try. To date this is the only modification that has cost nothing, lowered weight, and improved appearance.

As others have reported, no perceptible increase in exhaust noise at either idle or highway speed. Very happy to loose the rattle.

Smashed up exhaust tip

You can see here where the existing hanger hits the bumper's cross bar, producing a rattle

Side shot. Shows just how much clearance the Dissent bumper provides

After delete

I don't own a sawzall so I made do with a hacksaw. I call this functional, not pretty

 

[neilsen100]

TechStream, AHC Pressures and fluid flush

With all the additional weight on the truck I knew the AHC system was stressed. Over 6 months ago I ordered a cable off Ebay in hopes to hook up TechStream and check pressures. I struggled with getting the software setup on a Windows 10 machine (only PC I had readily available). Later I tried on a very old Windows 7 laptop but just couldn't get all the pieces to fall into place. Finally I came across the following post:

How-To: TechStream In 5 Minutes

Using this as a guide I downloaded Virtual Box onto my MacBook Pro. The supplied driver in Virtual Box was not correct for my cable but using the CD provided with the cable, loaded onto the Mac desktop, I dragged and dropped it into the Virtual Box. That did the trick. Virtual Box had Tech Stream, I had loaded the cable driver, and when plugged into the LX, I could see the truck. Finally I was able to read AHC pressures.

I knew the pressures would be high but didn't expect them to be this high. 8.1 front and 10.6 rear. I was getting about 6 fluid level mark difference when lifting truck from H to L. The guides say do not proceed to bleed if less than 7 but I wanted to push forward and try to save the AHC system. It is posted elsewhere on MUD but I've also provided the bleeding procedure for reference.

Following the instructions is very simple. Only change is to the fluid part number. I used part number 08886-81221, the 1 liter bottle. I bought 5 just in case but used a little more than 2. After completing flush of whole system, the truck drove a little better and I wash now getting 10 fluid marks between H and L.

Pressure readings before fluid flush

Preparing for fluid replacement

Sucking out old fluid from reservoir with cooking baster and 3/16" tubing

Getting ready to bleed Accumulator

 

[neilsen100]

TechStream, AHC Pressures and fluid flush and springs

With the fluid flushed I was getting the appropriate number of fluid level difference from H to L positions, but the pressures we still extremely high. Since most of the weight is on the back of the truck (RTT, Fridge, Shelves, Rear Bumper, Spare Tire) I tackled the rear first. I didn't think a simple spacer would be enough to help the hydraulic system and the King Springs are awfully expensive and even they might not have enough umph for all the weight. Instead I found another MUD member with stock LC springs of an 80 series. These are a direct fit, just much higher spring rate.

Spring replacement on the back is very easy. Lift truck onto stands, remove tires, disconnect rear sway bar, remove shock from lower mount, use jack to articulate axle, pull old spring and replace with new. This whole process took me about an hour. To remove the shocks from lower mounts I used a brass drift to tap on the bushing.

After driving around and intentionally going over various speed bumps I hooked up TechStream to read pressures. Front is still a little high at 8.0 but rears are now back inline at 5.2. Feel of the truck is very different and back to the super smooth feel of stock.

Stock LC springs make the LX spring look downright whimpy

Articulating the axle and the spring nearly falls out. Installation of replacement spring is a breeze and does not require spring compressors

TechStream hooked up and running on a Mac

Pressures are now much happier. Front needs to be addressed with Tbar adjustment. I have some stock LC bars just in case.

 

[LBridges]

Maybe I missed it, but I suggest it's worth reading up on the torsion bars up front.

If your reading conflicts with anything I write below, I would ignore my writing as I can't find my notes and my memory sucks. Anyway, Giving both torsion bar adjustment bolts a turn or two should help with their pressures. IIRC each revolution of the adjustment nut results on a 0.2 reduction of pressure readings. Won't make a tired system work properly, but can help. This is because the AHC system tries to raise the truck to a set point regardless of how tired the torsion springs are. Giving them a couple of turns on each side is, at least for a while, a solution to high front readings.

 

[willbt]

Hey man, are you still rocking the resonator delete? I'm curious how this sounds. Does it make for more cabin noise?

I have smashed mine up pretty good and am considering cutting the coffee can off right after the axle just like you have, but I don't want it to sounds like crap.

 

[neilsen100]

Hey man, are you still rocking the resonator delete? I'm curious how this sounds. Does it make for more cabin noise?

I have smashed mine up pretty good and am considering cutting the coffee can off right after the axle just like you have, but I don't want it to sounds like crap.

@willbt I am still running the truck without the resonator. No additional cabin noise is noticeable at idle nor highway speed. I am very happy with this simple fix.

 

[thetoyotaman]

Nice build. Curious if you have ever adjusted your height sensors and how the ride changed with the rear springs. Thanks!

 

[neilsen100]

Nice build. Curious if you have ever adjusted your height sensors and how the ride changed with the rear springs. Thanks!

@thetoyotaman Never changed my height sensors. Happily running the truck at stock height. The handful of times I'm off road, such as HIH, I use AHC to raise the truck.

As for the ride, much better with the pressures back in compliance. Only possible since the heavier springs carry more of the weight than stock springs could. I will say that in the past 6 months I've removed the RTT, took out the fridge for a little bit, and had sliders off. Rear end was extremely bouncy with the weight loss, not so good. Added back the weight and it drives well again.

 

[neilsen100]

Fuel Filter Replacement

The truck was starting to exhibit consistent behavior, particularly on the freeway, where it felt like power was simply cutting out. The feeling was identical to using cruise control and switching cruise off but not having the gas pedal depressed, whole truck slows down. This was happening in both city and highway driving but more consistently on the highway while cruising at 70-75 mph. Pushing the gas pedal down harder seemed to clear it up for a few hundred miles but it would return inconsistently.

Talking with a friend who knows Toyotas and cars much better than I, he suggested the fuel filter. Figured there might be a resistance to fuel pressure that pushed through after increasing line pressure but depressing pedal more.

For this whole thing I leaned heavily on the excellent instructions of How To: Fuel Filter 100 Series

Tools I used:
14mm line wrench
14mm open end wrench
19mm open end wrench
10mm socket 3/8" drive
3/8" ratchet
3/8" socket extension
small flat head screwdriver

1. Place rags under either side of the fuel filter (driver side of truck)
2. use 19mm open end on fuel filter itself (red arrow)
3. use 14mm line wrench on inbound fuel line nut going into right side of fuel filter (green arrow)

4. use 10mm socket/wrench to remove two mounting bolts (red arrows)
5. unclip fuel line from white hose clip (green circle)
6. squeeze green plastic clip (green circle) and pull fuel line straight up

7. remove old fuel filter from truck
8. remove green plastic clip and white clip from old filter (not pictured)

Here is the new filter (23300-50090) with the old green and white clips

9. Install clips onto new fuel filter and loosely mount into truck. Be sure to line up inbound fuel line.
10. Hand thread inbound fuel line nut and then tighten with 14mm line wrench while holding filter with 19mm open end wrench.
11. reconnect outbound fuel line
12. tighten mounting bolts (green circles)
13. Start truck with hood open and immediately look for leaks

My inbound line was leaking so I shut down the engine and tightened the inbound 14mm nut a bit more. The line wrench did not give me the angle I needed so last bit was done with a 14mm open end wrench, very carefully.

As the other thread said, about 30 minutes. Best thing is power loss symptoms have not returned with another 2000 miles driven.

 

[neilsen100]

Slee Group 31 Battery Tray & X2 Power AGM install

My battery had died for a second time this winter due to possible unknown drain (more on this later) and/or from not driving for 4 months. Working from home at the same time we had our first child has its benefits but doesn't lend itself to casual driving. Since this put me in the market for a new battery, figured going with a Group 31 AGM would add some additional ommph for the fridge.

Tools used:
10mm open end wrench
Allen head socket [I think it was 6mm]
14mm open end wrench
10mm Socket 3/8" drive
3/8" Ratchet
3/8" socket long extender
Electric Drill
Step bit which goes to 3/8"
Wire cutter for 4 Gauge
Crimping tool
Heat Gun

Additional parts:
x1 - Tinned copper lug, 4AWG for 5/16" stud size
x1 - 1 inch of marine grade heat shrink

Slee tray install is very straight forward, just follow the provided instructions. Some pictures of the process.

Drilling out the hole to 3/8". Blue tape lets me know how deep I need to go. Plenty of room beneath after dropping the washer reservoir as instructed by Slee.

Black Enamel paint top and bottom to protect against rust.

I was able to install the tray and tighten all three bolts by myself with relative ease. Socket with extension and Allen head on the top with left hand while holding the lower nut with the 14mm open end wrench. I am well over 6 feet tall. Because I was using the Slee supplied military terminals I would have to cut the stock negative lug and put on a new lug. I found good pricing on 4 Gauge tinned copper eyelets with a 5/16" stud made by a company called Selterm. These fit the factor wire perfectly.

Terminal lug after crimping with Harbor Freight crimp tool. Marine grade heat shrink ready to add.

Military terminals installed and positive side hooked up. This was very tight but did ultimately reach. Challenge is due to location of battery terminals on x2 Power Group 31 battery. Positive and Negative terminals are opposite of batteries traditionally used for this truck. With the military terminals acting as extensions, it is possible to install the battery "backwards" so the negative side is closer to the driver side and the positive is closer to the engine.

 

[neilsen100]

Slee Group 31 Battery Tray & X2 Power AGM install cont'd

The x2 Power is a very tall battery. I checked and rechecked the clearance with the hood and hood liner. It does clear the hood easily and best I can tell just rests lightly agains the hood liner. Ultimately I decided to use terminal covers for peace of mind.

Negative terminal cover installed. Positive side will follow eventually.

 

[neilsen100]

Eliminating Hi-Lift Jack Rattle

I had previously purchased the Jack Handle Keeper that Hi-Lift makes themselves. I'd say that this product is worthless. It fits so loosely on the jack itself that driving down the block if falls down. Does nothing to stop the handle from rattling. This is not a big problem for a Hi-Lift mounted at the back of a vehicle but was an annoyance to me each time I opened the swing out and heard loose metal hitting metal.

Jack Handle Keeper


I then received an email from Step 22 titled "Eliminate Hi-Lift Jack Rattle." Be previously thrilled with their products, I thought I'd give it a try. Much better fit on the upper piece so nothing moves, but not so difficult that it makes jack removal and use burdensome. And the two piece design lives up to the advertisement, rattle eliminated!!

Step 22 Silent Jack for Hi-Lift

 

[dwh13]

Awesome thread! I love seeing these put to proper use. Keep it up!

 

[neilsen100]

Accessory Panel Unit by Wits' End

Still catching up with posts about things from the past 6 months. Installed the Wits' End APU for the 100 series. Fantastic product and very nice to drive down the highway without the typical tools rattling around.

Remove the center consul cover, pre drill holes using supplied template, screw in button snaps, snap APU.

Then stock it and enjoy no more rattles. Included in the regular set of tools is the Opinel 10 corkscrew knife. Can't count how many times this has come in handy.

 

[neilsen100]

Valve Cover Gasket, PCV Valve and hoses, Spark Plugs

Late last year I began smelling oil after driving around, particularly after coming up the pass and pushing the engine a bit. Inspection showed oil leaking at the valve cover gasket from both sides of the engine. Per other posts here I snugged up the valve cover gasket bolts. Most were finger tight (finger loose?). Using a torque wrench I tightened them to 6Nm. Weeks later still had the smell, time for a valve cover gasket replace.

First, heavily relied on other posts here on Mud. Specifically the following. Very appreciative of the work others have done to make this site an amazing resource.
Valve cover gasket tips
Valve Cover Gasket Job
Valve Cover Gasket leak

Second, I did not, but wish I had cleaned my engine bay before starting this project. The majority of working time was spent cleaning and avoiding putting dirt into the valve area. Once I started opening things up, washing was not possible.

Third, as others have said the valve cover gasket replacement is likely a 2 hour job. I estimate that I spent 4-5 hours working, most of which included cleaning. Due to moving, our first child coming into the world, and work travel, these hours happened over the course of 4 months. I've done my best to post the photos I have, but a number of items I simply forgot to photograph.

I started with the driver side because it is the harder of the two. The shear number of wires and hoses is what make this harder. Basically everything attached to the hose bracket held by two bolts (green circles) needs to be moved or detached. The main wiring harness is pushed downwards to allow the valve cover clearance (orange arrow)

Each valve cover is held by 9 bolts. A variety of socket extensions make all of them accessible.

The PCV hose must be detached (not pictured). I replaced the PCV valve but removed the valve and gasket after the valve cover was off the engine. Unclip the wire harness from the coil packs (purple arrows) then unbolt and remove the coil packs

With the valve cover off I then pulled the valve cover gasket. Based on the dealer service records this has never been replaced. The gasket felt hard, as did the spark plug tube seals.

 

[neilsen100]

Valve Cover Gasket, PCV Valve and hoses, Spark Plugs con't

With the driver side cover off I unbolted the oil filler tube. Then placed the cover upside down on some wood and began removal of spark plug tube gasket. Pry the tabs up first with a flathead screwdriver. I often had a piece of wood under the screwdriver to protect the cover.

Then using small Knipex pliers, bend the tabs all the way up. With tabs bent, the spark plug tube gaskets easily pry out with a screwdriver.

Just like the valve cover gasket, I have no record of these being replaced and they felt it. Very hard compared to the replacements. You can also see the slight difference in part numbers from the original to the replacements. Originals are part number 11193-16010 (left) which has been replaced by part number 11193-70010 (right)

 

[neilsen100]

Valve Cover Gasket, PCV Valve and hoses, Spark Plugs con't

Next is cleaning in installing new spark plug tube gaskets and then prepping to reinstall the valve cover.

Left tube in picture is untouched while right side is cleaned with brake cleaner

Press in the new spark plug tube gasket. NOTE: PICTURE SHOWS BACKWARDS ORIENTATION. I installed the driver side spark plug tube gaskets backwards. The gaskets have an orientation and a taper to facilitate them slipping over the spark plug tubes. Installing backwards makes installing the valve cover exceptionally harder. No pictures of me putting on as I had to quickly grab a bicycle tire lever and massage the gaskets around the spark plug tube. Fortunately they seal just as well and I did not have to redo this side.

Reinstall the oil filler with new gasket, part number 12196-50010

Install new gasket, part number 11214-50011 for the driver side