Valve Cover Gasket leak

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.

Joined
Oct 7, 2008
Threads
214
Messages
9,209
Location
Atlanta
Smelled quite the oily smell today. Popped the hood and had smoke from the passenger side. It was visually leaking on the passenger side. 3 drops in 1 minute idling. Tighten down bolts? Time for new gasket? Something worse? FYI- just had oil changed last week.

I know there is a thread for it. I'm on my phone and can't search.
image-3572698475.webp
image-2951132404.webp
image-4170584960.webp
 
Tightening the 10mm bolts is a temporary solution, but fixing the problem long term requires a new gasket.


Btw- the torque spec on those bolts is only 7lbs so don't crush the plastic washers.
 
jasonbraswell said:
Tightening the 10mm bolts is a temporary solution, but fixing the problem long term requires a new gasket.

Btw- the torque spec on those bolts is only 7lbs so don't crush the plastic washers.

Thanks. Good thing you posted the torque specs. After tightening them down what's the best cleaning solution? I need to do the same on the driver side as well ( not leaking as bad). 151k and this is the first sign of wear! Not bad in my books.
 
A mechanic recently told me brake fluid but he said the fumes are harsh. Simple green or a car wash could work
 
I wouldn't spend too much time cleaning them. It's likely 99% of the oil will burn off on its own in the time it takes to go thru a tank of gas. I had the same problem and didn't bother to clean mine, I just let the oil evaporate and now - no smell.

I didn't want to add anything else to my "to do" list.


Funny though, mine also started to leak after I did an oil change and switched from dino to synthetic....
 
GaFJC said:
I wouldn't spend too much time cleaning them. It's likely 99% of the oil will burn off on its own in the time it takes to go thru a tank of gas. I had the same problem and didn't bother to clean mine, I just let the oil evaporate and now - no smell.

I didn't want to add anything else to my "to do" list.

Funny though, mine also started to leak after I did an oil change and switched from dino to synthetic....

I didn't go to synthetics. It's good that tightening them up helped the problem. I want to clean it for preference. My engine bay looks like its been dipped in GA clay. So cleaning it up is on my to do list.
 
Are you sure that the mechanic didn't just spill oil? Simple Green the area so you can pinpoint exactly where it's coming from.
 
IIRC you have around 150k miles?

Is there anything that could cause them to fail prematurely? There are numerous V8's w/ more mileage than this.
 
04UZJ100 said:
IIRC you have around 150k miles?

Is there anything that could cause them to fail prematurely? There are numerous V8's w/ more mileage than this.

Correct, 151K. Not that I know of. Oil changed every 3-5K. Always maintained on schedule, no problems have been neglected except for manifolds and a damp pinion seal in the rear. I do however drive it very hard, there are very few times I drive where I don't wind it out. I grew up driving high performance cars so a quick drive is not uncommon. I do wait for a full warm up for everything though( engine, trans, etc). this is the worst thing I've seen on this rig in 12 years ( purchased Jan 2000).
 
SupraTuRD said:
Are you sure that the mechanic didn't just spill oil? Simple Green the area so you can pinpoint exactly where it's coming from.

I visually smelled it and saw smoke from drips on the manifold. I did see 3 drops fall in a minute. I have been smelling oil the pas few days. But assumed it was the oil change. I've been so busy I haven't had time to snoop around. I'll get the oil changed after I clean it up and tighten it down. I run standard oil. Whatever the dealer pours in.
 
I didn't go to synthetics. It's good that tightening them up helped the problem. I want to clean it for preference. My engine bay looks like its been dipped in GA clay. So cleaning it up is on my to do list.

I tightened my VCG before replacing them as I didn't have time to replace them right away. A quick turn of the wrench and they stopped leaking. A good quick fix. In the month that passed before I replaced them not a drop leaked. Bet a lot of Mud'rs have just tightened vs. replacing and its worked well for them. Unfortunately my OCD :rolleyes: made me replace them.

I can feel your pain with the GA clay. My 100 and my FJ both have it even though I've burned thru many quarters at the DIY car wash trying to get it off! It sticks like super glue. Stinks when it burns on the exhaust too!
 
I tightened my VCG before replacing them as I didn't have time to replace them right away. A quick turn of the wrench and they stopped leaking. A good quick fix. In the month that passed before I replaced them not a drop leaked. Bet a lot of Mud'rs have just tightened vs. replacing and its worked well for them. Unfortunately my OCD :rolleyes: made me replace them.

I can feel your pain with the GA clay. My 100 and my FJ both have it even though I've burned thru many quarters at the DIY car wash trying to get it off! It sticks like super glue. Stinks when it burns on the exhaust too!

would be interested in giving me a hand with all that? I would be thrilled if I could replace some older things. Keeping me engine healthy is my top priority. Especially the way I drive it. And yes, GA clay stinks so bad when caked on the exhaust. I have a permanent smell :lol:
 
I really maintain my rigs well - probably too well - but honestly if I had the VCG to to all over again I might live with them tightened down for much, much longer. I didn't notice much of a difference with pliability between the old and new ones. I realize this could vary a lot from engine to engine though.

From reading Mud posts it seems like the PS is the first one to leak often. Mine was. Thankfully its the easiest one to tighten.

Just my 2 cents but tighten them, clean the oil and clay off the engine and just keep an eye on it. Save your time and $$. Even with as stinky as mine PS VCG leak was and what I thought was a lot of oil never made a noticeable difference on the dip stick.

Again all rides all different.
 
I really maintain my rigs well - probably too well - but honestly if I had the VCG to to all over again I might live with them tightened down for much, much longer. I didn't notice much of a difference with pliability between the old and new ones. I realize this could vary a lot from engine to engine though.

From reading Mud posts it seems like the PS is the first one to leak often. Mine was. Thankfully its the easiest one to tighten.

Just my 2 cents but tighten them, clean the oil and clay off the engine and just keep an eye on it. Save your time and $$. Even with as stinky as mine PS VCG leak was and what I thought was a lot of oil never made a noticeable difference on the dip stick.

Again all rides all different.


Well, I will tighten them down and clean it up for now. My driver side is leaking but only saturating the area close. I would like to tighten that down a little if possible.
 
Mine was leaking on the PS side around 150K. I tightened them down and haven't had a leak in 20K miles. Now at 169 and no sign of a leak. My LS on the other hand is leaking on both sides and it has 130K. I am changing them tomorrow weather permitting....
 
Mine went bad at 200k miles and I just finished changing the gaskets on my dads 100 an hr ago(180). For $40 in parts at the dealer including the PCV I think it's cheap insurance, and a couple hr very simple job to boot.

Not only do they keep oil in but e dirt and water OUT.
 
I agree, I also did my plugs , PVC, and fuel filter at the same time. That said if you tighten them and it keeps the oil in it also keeps dirt/water out.


Beno and others recommend changing the guides for the the coil pack/plugs while doing the VCGs.
 
Correct, 151K. Not that I know of. Oil changed every 3-5K. Always maintained on schedule, no problems have been neglected except for manifolds and a damp pinion seal in the rear. I do however drive it very hard, there are very few times I drive where I don't wind it out. I grew up driving high performance cars so a quick drive is not uncommon. I do wait for a full warm up for everything though( engine, trans, etc). this is the worst thing I've seen on this rig in 12 years ( purchased Jan 2000).

I hear you...they're dogs. Good man letting it warm up. Too many "bros with kewl carz" don't do this and it is by far the worst thing you can do to a car.
 
Nick,

Ditto on the tighten (w torque wrench) and Simple Green. My passenger side VCG started leaking around 198K. No sign of leaking now at 203K. Warm engine up a little (not hot), spray Simple Green on all over. Let sit 10 minutes and hose off with running water while engine is idling. Do not use high pressure. Try to avoid a lot of water and pressure around the coils. No issues on my LC with that but I toasted a coil over on my wife's Aviator (must have been a bad seal around it).
 
Back
Top Bottom