Green '71 Frame Off Mild Build

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Joined
Nov 4, 2008
Threads
178
Messages
2,014
Location
Federal Way, WA
I have debated documenting my rebuild because I usually forget to take pics until it's too late. However I will try.

I bought my 12/70 40 in December 2008. I was in pretty good shape overall, but has the usual rear sill rust. It came with a new Bestop and a hard top that has serious rust issues. The PO had rebuilt the engine, however health issues caused him to park it with less than 100 miles on the engine. Two years later I bought it from him. It needed a carb rebuild, lots of failed grounds to be repaired and lots of other stuff to make it safe to drive. I finally got it out on the road in March.

First steps included sliding and reclining bucket seats for the front and a forward facing bench in the rear. New three point belts up front were a must. The rear will get them also after I get a cage. I switched to a floor shifter and added some 33" mud tires. That was about it besides some slider I fabbed, but never got to use.

My last trip out was in June. Something let loose in the engine and started making a loud rattle. I tore the bottom end apart and found nothing except some metal in the pan. Most of that was from the new bearings. Last week I finally gave up on trying to fix the engine to make use of the fading wheeling season and decided to begin the frame off restore I planned for later this winter.

I am doing a mild restore, just seperating the tub so I can repair rust more easily. Then I want to clean up the bottom side and the frame and get them painted up and slap on some undercoating. I bought some Zero Rust to start with.

Plans include a Chevy 305 and 700R4 mated to the stock t-case using the AA kit. I had planned on the Downey kit, but.... Power steering using a tilt column, upgraded brake master and booster. The new master will feed 4 wheel discs. I bought some newer axles that have a front mini disc conversion. I had planned to build up these axles and then just swap out the ones in what was a running truck. Now I may keep them or not. It depends on which shafts are inside them. Later on will be lockers and new shafts. The axles will get new bearings and seals for sure.

The suspension will get some sort of lift to make room for 37" tires. I have not yet decided on new springs or a spring over. Shackle reversal up front for sure plus I want to push the rear axle back to help with the longer tranny.

The interior will get a full cage from Metal Tech and a new dash with gauges. I am debating removing the factory dash (carefully to preserve it) and put in some sort of hinged dash to allow for easy access underneath. I have not made up my mind yet. I do want to preserve as much of its value as I can, but also make working on it a bit easier. Last will be some bed liner.

I may try painting it myself by rolling on paint from Ace Hardware. We shall see.

All new wiring is on the plans too. I bought a Painless fuse panel and plan to wire it myself. The factory wires are OK in places and in other spots cracked and corroded. Better just to go all new.

I had previously started to restore the hard top. It is torn down and I repaired the rusted out sections of gutter. I quit at that point when I started on my sliders and then after the engine gave out. I'll leave the top for last.

So there it is. Here are some pics.

The 40 at the PO's house.
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Original interior recovered.
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The rebuilt engine
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Original dash
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Last wheeling trip with my 7 year old son. Note the 33's and cut rear fender well. I have some TJ flares to go on later.
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Side view of the sliders I made. I put them on before I knew the engine was bad. I thought the sound was from the exhaust being shoved into the skid plate on the last trip.

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After about 4 hours of work today. The 40 was exactly as I parked it after the last trip when I started. I was surprised how fast it came apart. No way it will go back together that fast. I quit for the day to let the windshield bolts soak. I can't even lower it. The hinges are frozen solid.
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The 305 that will go in after some cleanup, new gaskets, etc.
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That was the last pic today. My camera battery died.

I could use some advice in headers... I don't know what will fit. I will fab up my own motor and tranny mounts.

I will be installing a new 4bbl intake manifold and a offroad carb. Then maybe an RV cam. Later on I may add in a TBI. I had wanted a Vortec, but just too far out of my budget.

That's it for tonight.

Steve
 
Go Steve go!! :D :beer: :beer::D

-Alan
 
thats a nice lookin cruiser. like the way your goin with it. i also like that style front seats with the center flip down section. I always wondered why they only did that for one year.
 
Sorry to disappoint, but I replaced the seats already with reclining buckets from an Isuzu Trooper. Low back seats are just too dangerous in my opinion.

The center section from my '71 did not fold down. It had a vapor canister inside it so it was bolted to the frame such that is was fixed upright.



thats a nice lookin cruiser. like the way your goin with it. i also like that style front seats with the center flip down section. I always wondered why they only did that for one year.
 
"Sorry to disappoint, but I replaced the seats already with reclining buckets from an Isuzu Trooper. Low back seats are just too dangerous in my opinion."


cant blame a guy for being safe.
 
That will be a nice build.A couple of notes,when you shop for your cam there is really only a couple of options for the 305 involving low end torque and RPM.A 600 cfm carb or smaller with a tourquer manifold is all you need with any of the cams you use.Rams horns manifolds are just as good as headers and will last 5 times longer.Remember the 305 is externally balanced so not any flywheel or flex plate will work.
 
What are Rams Horns manifolds? I have heard the term, just never found out what it meant.

The engine I bought is complete from pulleys to flex plate. It doesn't seem to be externally balanced. At least not as much as I would think. SO if it does need external weight I have it in place already. The ring gear is perfect too. Actually the engine was out of a '79 camaro that sat for 17 years. Only 41k on it. The insides look ok other than the sludge in the bottom. I am going to replace all the gaskets and clean it out before installing it. At that time I would like to get the new cam and intake in.

Anyone have suggestions on exact cam and intake? So many choices and I just don't know what are good combos.

Steve

That will be a nice build.A couple of notes,when you shop for your cam there is really only a couple of options for the 305 involving low end torque and RPM.A 600 cfm carb or smaller with a tourquer manifold is all you need with any of the cams you use.Rams horns manifolds are just as good as headers and will last 5 times longer.Remember the 305 is externally balanced so not any flywheel or flex plate will work.
 
Never mind on the rams horn manifolds. I looked them up. Might be a good way to go as I can tuck the exhaust in nice and tight. I was fretting over that part. It seems so many people fight their exhausts.
 
OK, so I only had a few hours of cruiser time today as I spent most of the day cutting baseboard and door mouldings for my downstairs.

I found that one of my 40's previous owners had a way of solving rust. Just put a new piece of sheet metal over it and blend it in with bondo!

The following is where the lower rear door hinge was. Both side are the same. You can see the upper edge of the newer sheetmetal.
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So here it was when I started (took pics last night when I knocked off for the night).

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Fenders off
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Then started getting everything off the firewall. Got the steering shaft and gear removed, heater, wiring, plumbing, etc.
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That is it for today other than draining most of the gas out of the fuel tank. My wife's car and my pickup are now full. :cool: Tomorrow I will get the rest of it out then remove the tank. I took off the float and looked inside. For nearly 40 years old the tank looks brand new inside. I was dreading it thinking all I would see is rust. I lucked out on that part at least.

Steve
 
I have been making a couple hours of progress per day. The body is ready to come off now. I am going to let the bolts soak all next week while I am out of town then yank the tub next weekend. If I can't remove the botls it will be sawzall time.

This is the cable that goes to the T-case vacuum switch on the firewall. It was at the end of its life for sure. I plan to go twin stick so this goes to the scrap yard with no regrets.
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The tub
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Another angle
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Stuff I have removed and not stored yet
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And the rest
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Sure is lots of stuff to store then overhaul.

That's it until next weekend.
 
Thanks Nick.

This morning I put the rear tires on small Harbor Freight movers dolly's and spun the 40 around backwards. Now I can center the body under my ceiling mounted hoist. Tomorrow morning the tub comes off. Yay.
 
I made a little progress this weekend, but not much. Mostly I just lifted the body off and put it on the other side of the garage. My garage is so full I can hardly walk through it much less work in there. Today I did a little clean up work so I could get some space back. I also picked up a new torque converter.

Here is what I spent all weekend on. I am refinishing one of two fireplaces in travertine. This morning I finished cutting all the pieces. Next weekend I will mortar them in.

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Here are a couple of my progress on the 40.
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Making some progress, even if a little slow. Cut off the rear sill cover and cut loose the left side of the sill beam. Still have the right side to do. Mapping out what I need to splice into the quarters to fix the rust holes. They are not as bad as I thought.

Took off about 1/4" of bondo from the left side

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Took off 3/8 to 1/2 " from the right side

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Here are is the left quarter and the sill with the cover removed
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Pulled the rear support and cut out some bad sheet metal. That's it for this weekend as I am doing brick work and painting my family room.

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Well, it has been a while since I last posted. I have been busy on my house to get ready for the holidays. The house is done :)

So back on to my 40. The engine I bought for it turned out to be a dud. It was advertised as having 47K original miles and having sat for the past 15 years. The 15 year part I believe since I drained about a gallon of water out of it, but it had 147K if anything. The more I tore into it the more work it was going to need. It wasn't a bad motor, but needed a full rebuild. It wasn't cost effective. I ended up getting only $50 for it.

I ended up buying an '83 305 HO out of a Z28 for $200. It was rebuilt recently and looks it. It was running on an engine stand and had 200lbs compression on each cylinder. I am installing a Summit cam and Edelbrock intake for a bit more HP. Other than that it will be stock. It was painted, but I didn't like the color so I am repainting, finding the right brackets, etc. I am going to use a 4bbl Q-jet for now. It needs a rebuild of course.

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I bought and wired up a 220v welder. Turns out that even at the lowest setting it burns through the sheet metal too easily so I am going to borrow my neighbors welder to finish the sheet metal work.

First corner tacked.

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I'll install the other corner tomorrow. Now I'm off to do some last minute Christmas shopping.
 
REBUILD is looking good, i hate buying a engine, out of a vehicle. You never hear it run, you never know if it's any good or not. I did buy a 302 v-8 engine years ago, for 200 bucks, that ran like brand new.
 
Thanks. I have been wondering a lot if I am way over my head. I know I can do it all, but money and time are both in short supply. Well money more than time. A 10% pay cut makes buying cruiser parts harder to get past my wife :(

REBUILD is looking good, i hate buying a engine, out of a vehicle. You never hear it run, you never know if it's any good or not. I did buy a 302 v-8 engine years ago, for 200 bucks, that ran like brand new.
 

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