grease fittings on 97 lx450 (1 Viewer)

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Thanks, everyone, for all of the great info.

You've only got six zerks; one for each driveshaft yolk (2), and one each for the U-joints (4). Use Lithium base grease for those; something like Mobil 1 synthetic (no Moly). Then you have one screw plug on each knuckle

Is this screw plug the location for greasing the birfs? I looked for it this weekend and wasn't sure if I was looking for a zerk or a bolt. How can I make a positive ID before I start pumping grease in the wrong place?

Be careful to not overgrease the driveshaft yolks; most agree just enough to see the yolk start to move but no more, and do it with the wheels on the ground (so that the shafts are not extended). You can clean up any old crud from driveshaft yolk (I use PB Blaster) then smear a tad of fresh grease on the bare metal when you are done. Do not be shy however when greasing the U-joints; you should pump grease through them until you see fresh grease coming out via the seals.

The yokes are clearly ID'd on the diagram, but I'm not seeing the U-joints. Are these referred to as spiders in the diagram?
 
anybody knows what the threads are on the zirks?
 
My zircs were pressed in on the spider, I didn't turn the zirc on the shaft, but I think it's a tapered metric thread. I had to pull the old zirc fittings off my spiders and put them on the NAPA spiders because they didn't have the right angle. I think you could reach in and turn them if you needed to get a better angle on a grease gun.
P_00011.JPG
 
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You've only got six zerks; one for each driveshaft yolk (2), and one each for the U-joints (4).... Be careful to not overgrease the driveshaft yolks.... Do not be shy however when greasing the U-joints...

Sorry about resurrecting an old thread but could someone please clarify the terms used above to match the FSM diagram?! I wanna make sure I head the dire warnings on the correct zerk... :eek:

"Driveshaft Yolk" = Sleeve Yolk in the diagram (nbrs 2 and 5)
"U-joints" = Spider in the diagram (1, 3, 4 and 6)

Is that right?!

Driveshaftszirks.jpg
 
Zerk Locations

Maybe this will also help.
Grease.jpg
 
anyone know why it is synthetic but no moly on the universal joint grease but synthetic in the yokes? any moly in the yoke grease?
i never got this synthetic - dino thing either to be honest. what is the reason for one being synthetic and the other not?
 
anyone know why it is synthetic but no moly on the universal joint grease but synthetic in the yokes? any moly in the yoke grease?
i never got this synthetic - dino thing either to be honest. what is the reason for one being synthetic and the other not?
Keep in mind that the FSM was written many many years ago, and later versions simply repeated certain recommendations from earlier versions as far back as the 1970s. You will find some of the exact same information in a 1978 FJ40 manual as a 1997 FZJ80 manual.
Personally, I use 1 grease for everything and have for at least the last 20 years. Although the packaging has changed as well as the formulation over the years (true for any manufacturer) I stick with Amsoil GPTR2.
However, I believe that any modern grease will be fine to use as long as it gets used. And there is the rub. Fittings are there to be greased regularly.
 
Keep in mind that the FSM was written many many years ago, and later versions simply repeated certain recommendations from earlier versions as far back as the 1970s. You will find some of the exact same information in a 1978 FJ40 manual as a 1997 FZJ80 manual.
Personally, I use 1 grease for everything and have for at least the last 20 years. Although the packaging has changed as well as the formulation over the years (true for any manufacturer) I stick with Amsoil GPTR2.
However, I believe that any modern grease will be fine to use as long as it gets used. And there is the rub. Fittings are there to be greased regularly.
thank you JH. that would simplify life. any idea how much of the amsoil you buy? i have one of those conventional caulk guns but i have to root around to see if i ever bought one of those 90 degree fittings or whatever. was the access issue only on lifted rigs?!
 
That's what I figured with the yokes, with everyone's dire warnings about over-greasing. Time to break out the kerosene.

Something I have done to a customers car after they decided to over grease the yolks themselves, unscrew the two nipples and do a little off road driving, return home and wipe off the excess grease, if there was excessive amounts in there (normally causes bad vibes) it will have been squeezed out, replace nipples job done.

regards

Dave
 
thank you JH. that would simplify life. any idea how much of the amsoil you buy? i have one of those conventional caulk guns but i have to root around to see if i ever bought one of those 90 degree fittings or whatever. was the access issue only on lifted rigs?!
I usually buy it by the case (10 14oz cartridges for a standard grease gun).
They used to sell their original moly fortified GHD grease in 1lb tubs which was great for packing birfields and whatnot. Unfortunately they discontinued that packaging, but a box cutter makes quick work of a cartridge if you need a handful.
Another little doodad that has been discussed before, is a needle tip for your grease gun along with the standard grease fitting.
Amazon product ASIN B0002SR6XE
This can make getting to the universal joint grease fittings a bit easier if you don't feel like rolling the truck to get them in a better position.
 
Something I have done to a customers car after they decided to over grease the yolks themselves, unscrew the two nipples and do a little off road driving, return home and wipe off the excess grease, if there was excessive amounts in there (normally causes bad vibes) it will have been squeezed out, replace nipples job done.

regards

Dave
THANKS dave. can i just ask what the danger of overgreasing is? i would take a wild guess but i'll look stupid...
 
I usually buy it by the case (10 14oz cartridges for a standard grease gun).
They used to sell their original moly fortified GHD grease in 1lb tubs which was great for packing birfields and whatnot. Unfortunately they discontinued that packaging, but a box cutter makes quick work of a cartridge if you need a handful.
Another little doodad that has been discussed before, is a needle tip for your grease gun along with the standard grease fitting.
Amazon product ASIN B0002SR6XE
This can make getting to the universal joint grease fittings a bit easier if you don't feel like rolling the truck to get them in a better position.

THANKS.
 
THANKS dave. can i just ask what the danger of overgreasing is? i would take a wild guess but i'll look stupid...


If the sliders are over filled with grease it prevents the propshafts contracting, that is the sliders cannot close to accommodate the movement of the axles. The hydraulic pressure can damage the transfer box and axle bearings. The first sign of over greasing is you get vibrations from the drive train as soon as you start driving.

If you have any doubt whatsoever, remove the nipples and drive over surfaces that require axle articulation.

regards

Dave
 
I usually buy it by the case (10 14oz cartridges for a standard grease gun).
They used to sell their original moly fortified GHD grease in 1lb tubs which was great for packing birfields and whatnot. Unfortunately they discontinued that packaging, but a box cutter makes quick work of a cartridge if you need a handful.
Another little doodad that has been discussed before, is a needle tip for your grease gun along with the standard grease fitting.
Amazon product ASIN B0002SR6XE
This can make getting to the universal joint grease fittings a bit easier if you don't feel like rolling the truck to get them in a better position.
hey man. dumb question. but will this needle fitting fit onto this style grease gun fitting? i mean i don't need this "lock n lube" coupler i guess?

Screen Shot 2020-05-10 at 1.38.12 PM.png


Screen Shot 2020-05-10 at 1.39.07 PM.png
 
If the sliders are over filled with grease it prevents the propshafts contracting, that is the sliders cannot close to accommodate the movement of the axles. The hydraulic pressure can damage the transfer box and axle bearings. The first sign of over greasing is you get vibrations from the drive train as soon as you start driving.

If you have any doubt whatsoever, remove the nipples and drive over surfaces that require axle articulation.

regards

Dave
nice. thanks lot for that.
 
hey man. dumb question. but will this needle fitting fit onto this style grease gun fitting? i mean i don't need this "lock n lube" coupler i guess?
Personally, I like grease guns with flexible hoses because the grease fittings are NEVER in just the right position, but yes. Grease gun fittings are usually interchangeable.
The Lock-N-Lube fitting looks cool, but I have never used one. A buddy of mine works for the company so maybe I'll get to play with one someday.
 
Any issues using Lucas X-tra Heavy Duty Grease? It is NLGI 2, but I do not know if it is lithium based - their TDS is a flyer with marketing terms at best. Best I can find is that it "is better than conventional lithium greases" but that tells me nothing.


I've already got it loaded into my gun from another project and would rather do than make a mess unloading and packing with something else. Just planning on spiders and yokes.
 
Any issues using Lucas X-tra Heavy Duty Grease? It is NLGI 2, but I do not know if it is lithium based - their TDS is a flyer with marketing terms at best. Best I can find is that it "is better than conventional lithium greases" but that tells me nothing.


I've already got it loaded into my gun from another project and would rather do than make a mess unloading and packing with something else. Just planning on spiders and yokes.
If you click on the "Datasheet" link on your link, you will find that it is a Polyurea based lubricant. Don't know which type, so it may or may not be compatible.

I use the Red-N-Tacky 2 on my wheel bearings and U-Joints. It is compatible with all my gear oils (when they mix) and I remain consistent on types I use.

I use Valvoline Palladium in my Birfs and my slip yokes on the DS. Also compatible with the gear oils I use.
 

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