Rust Advice - New to me 97 LX450

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goldilx

goldilx

Joined
Nov 19, 2023
Threads
6
Messages
38
Location
north carolina
Hi all! Excited to be a new member of the 80 series community after scoring a phenomenal deal on one last week. It definitely needs work but I’m looking forward to addressing things bit by bit. One area of attention is that it does have some rust, despite being in the southeast most of its life as seen by the panel photos included. I have also included some photos of the frame and underbody as well. Would love to get an idea of the severity of the rust overall and any DIY suggestions to slow down the panel body rust in the immediate future. Thank you!

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Is that a 96/97 LX450?

Looks like severe rust on the rear section of an inner rocker panel possibly going into the wheel well??

You could remove the running boards and even the cladding (LX450) to get a better look if you plan on having it fixed.

More photos taken from a bit further back of the areas shown above

Some places to look for rust:

Check the full length of the rocker panels (area below the doors), the rear most section is prone to rust.
Check the bottom of the front fenders where they meet the door ie: get on the ground and look up
Check the bottom inside edge of the doors behind/below the weatherstripping
Check under the mounting brackets for the rear wind/dust deflector
Check around the windshield and rear hatch glass for bubbling/rust
Check around the underside edge of the hood, especially behind the front "nose" of the hood
Check the bottom of the quarter panels (behind the wheel wells), get on the ground and look up also due to the rear bumper corners
Check the rear wheel wells (front and rear aspect)
Check the engine bay: inner fenders, under the battery, radiator support areas
 
Last edited:
That lateral
control arm bracket rust is what made me replace the axle housing. It was otherwise sound.
 
Kernal said:
Is that a 96/97 LX450?

Looks like severe rust on the rear section of an inner rocker panel possibly going into the wheel well??

You could remove the running boards to get a better look if you plan on having it fixed.

More photos taken from a bit further back of the areas shown above

Some places to look for rust:

Check the bottom of the front fenders where they meet the door ie: get on the ground and look up
Check the bottom inside edge of the doors behind/below the weatherstripping
Check under the mounting brackets for the rear wind/dust deflector
Check around the windshield and rear hatch glass for bubbling/rust
Check around the underside edge of the hood, especially behind the front "nose" of the hood
Check the bottom of the quarter panels (behind the wheel wells), get on the ground and look up also due to the rear bumper corners
Check the rear wheel wells (front and rear aspect)
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Thank you, very helpful! If I chose to not have it addressed, if I religiously went to rust prevention annually and drove it in Midwest semi regularly how many years do you think it has left?
 
It would help if you could take more photos from further back and more angles anywhere you see rust. Use the flash and take the photos from
a few feet back so we can tell where it's located. For the rear axle you can get closer to show how bad the rust is. If it's surface rust, not a big problem
but if the steel is flaking off with scalloped divots/craters, that is bad.

Reread my post above and focus on those areas to start, post up the photos. You should be able to post 5 photos per post
then go to the next post, etc,etc as needed.
 
goldilx said:
How much was that service and do you thinks it’s an urgent thing to do for my truck?
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I did it myself with a locking full float I rebuilt. It really depends on what you buy for parts. On the old axle housing, the rust on that bracket was the only thing really wrong with it. The welded nut that held the bolt in only had 2-3 threads left. I think the bracket can be replaced by welding but it requires good control of the bolt position.
 
Kernal said:
It would help if you could take more photos from further back and more angles anywhere you see rust. Use the flash and take the photos from
a few feet back so we can tell where it's located. For the rear axle you can get closer to show how bad the rust is. If it's surface rust, not a big problem
but if the steel is flaking off with scalloped divots/craters, that is bad.

Reread my post above and focus on those areas to start, post up the photos. You should be able to post 5 photos per post
then go to the next post, etc,etc as needed.
Click to expand...
I’m out of town but will do so when I get back. Thanks for your help!
 
@goldilx lx : The rust on the axle may be minor but the body is not looking good IMHO.

Need more photos to show what else is brewing, on top of what was discussed above
include a few photos of the engine bay.

NC 80 with rust 1.webp


NC 80 with rust 2.webp


NC 80 with rust 3.webp
 
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@goldilx Where are you in NC?
 
Kernal said:
@goldilx lx : The rust on the axle may be minor but the body is not looking good IMHO.

Need more photos to show what else is brewing, on top of what was discussed above
include a few photos of the engine bay.

View attachment 4010145

View attachment 4010146

View attachment 4010147
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Appreciate your input! Any ideas on how to address it or do you think it’s beyond salvageable? I’m unable to share more photos as I’m out of town, but the frame and every other area of the rig is clean, including the engine bay
 
goldilx said:
Appreciate your input! Any ideas on how to address it or do you think it’s beyond salvageable? I’m unable to share more photos as I’m out of town, but the frame and every other area of the rig is clean, including the engine bay
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It's fixable, but a wire wheel isn't going to do it. Those seams are rusted through.
 
jkeithw said:
unfortunate! I have a rust-free body that you could cut repair sections from, but it's just east of CLT.
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@jkeithw would love to have you join us at Uwharrie some time.
 
If you want to keep the rust more or less the same, spray it with "Fluid Film" once a year
 
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