I have an FZJ71 with the 1FZ-FE engine, I believe that the only difference between the one in my truck and yours is that yours uses a distributor for the ignition system and mine uses coils, do you guys know if the Scangauge2 would work on my 71??
I have an FZJ71 with the 1FZ-FE engine, I believe that the only difference between the one in my truck and yours is that yours uses a distributor for the ignition system and mine uses coils, do you guys know if the Scangauge2 would work on my 71??
I like that mounting spot. That is where I am considering mounting mine, but I was wondering if it would interfere with the visor wings, but it looks like it doesn't from your pics. I ordered mine almost 2 weeks ago and it hasn't come yet I can;t wait to get it mounted.
It looks like you mounted it on the semi flat spot on the front part of the overhead console and not to the mirror mount. Did you just use velcro and run the wire across the headliner and down the a-pillar?
It is hard to tell what FirstToy did with the visors from the picture. Mine is also mounted above the mirror, and I did have to trim the visors. You can see them trimmed in the pics. I assume his stuff is pretty far back unless he also trimmed the visors. The position for the Scanguage worked out perfectly for me.
no visor modification needed. Visors function normally. I will try to take better pics later.
the wire is routed up the a pillar under the trim (just unscrew the grab handle and pull off the cloth trim) and tucked inside the headliner at the windshield-just pull gently and push wire in (unscrew the visor first to loosen headliner)
the sg is sandwiched above my 2M radio RAM mount as you can see. RAM has a Y-mount w/ 2 balls so you can do that but I didn't have time to order that. It is doing fine as is though- no movement.
Note that it's pretty easy to make your own cable for the ScanGauge. The connector on the ScanGauge is an RJ45 modular connector, the same thing used on computers for the Ethernet link. You can buy the connectors and an inexpensive crimp tool at Radio Shack, or buy an Ethernet cable the length you want and then cut off the connector on one end and attach an OBD-II connector. The connector on the OBD-II end is available from several sources, for example here: Obd2 Male Connector - OBDii Connectors: Car Plug. Cost is something like $5 + S&H.
OBD-II on the 95-97 Land Cruiser is SAE J1850 VPW, so you only need three wires. Here are relevant connector pin assignments and signals names:
The OBD-II connector requires soldering the connector pins to the cable, so you need to be comfortable with doing that or talk a buddy into helping you.
Lots of ?s about A/T temp. The Scangauge won't give A/T temp because the ECU doesn't know it. I think the sensor is only a switch (rather than a resistor) so the ECU only knows 2 bits of data - either the A/T temp is within range (no dash light), or too high (dash light on.) There is no variable temp reading because it's not the right type of sensor.
Well, it would actually have to know 3 types of data, which are all different. The normal temp, the temp when it engages the light and the temp when the light can go off are not the same temp, so it can't be a simple on/off switch like a standard oil pressure idiot light. I can't remember the exact specs, but the light stays on until the temperature reaches a temp lower than what turned it on as I recall.
So, that would indicate it might be a variable sensor that feeds information to a processor that uses pre-programmed parameters to turn the light on and off.
Actually, there's more data points that, now that I think about it. I don't have the manual in front of me, but the solenoids are designed to work differently based on the transmission oil temp during warm up. As I barely recall, it won't go into overdrive or something like that, when the trans oil temperature is too cold among other things.
So with all that mind, it has to be a variable sensor and since the ECU controls the transmission, the ECU must have the information.
I'm not an EE by any means but I aced by Electronics Shop Class if that means anything at all (prolly not!) and I'd have to agree that there's gotta be a bit (no pun) more data than just two to three setpoints; with all the things that the ECT requires to work right I'd imagine that the temp sensor is actually able to read whole ranges of temps. Anyways, just a good guess, and a hope.
Maybe Raventai could shed some light on the AT temp. His temp gauge mod monitors water temps spot on with the SG. Maybe he knows something about the AT signals.
Lots of ?s about A/T temp. The Scangauge won't give A/T temp because the ECU doesn't know it. I think the sensor is only a switch (rather than a resistor) so the ECU only knows 2 bits of data - either the A/T temp is within range (no dash light), or too high (dash light on.) There is no variable temp reading because it's not the right type of sensor.
This is incorrect. If you look on pages AT-48 and AT-49 in the FSM it tells you that the sensor converts fluid temperature into a resistance value and gives you a couple of specific temperatures to test your sensor at to ensure it is within spec. (At 68*F it's 12.2k ohms and at 230*F it's 770 ohms.) And it tells you what resistance and for how long it needs to be above or below that value before the ECM to throw a P0710 code (ATF Temperature Sensor Circuit Malfunction). And if you look at the ATF temperature sensor circuit diagrams in the FSM and the EWD it shows the sensor as a resistor.
After toying around with different mounting locations I decided to mount min over that tiny worthless cubby hole above the radio. It actually doesn't looks better than I thought it would.
All I did was cut a small hole in the back of the removable plastic shelf, route the wire from the port under the dash and up behind the A/C-Heater controls and through the hole I cut in the shelf. After putting the dash back together, I cut 2 small pieces of velcro and placed them on the sides (wide part) of the cubby shelf and some on the ends of the SG. It seems to be holding up just fine.
If I get sick of that spot I can easily remove it and patch up the hole in the back of the cubby shelf. I post some pics when I get a chance to.
That looks like the right connector (16 pins, "D" shaped housing, 3 or 4 wires going to the contacts). It's just not in the same location as U.S. model vehicles. But it does fit the OBD specification that says it must be near by the steering column.