Going through more gas then I use to with rich exhaust smell

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Atoyot1031 said:
Driving over Independence Pass and back tomorrow to go fishing with a full tank (my long ranger is empty) and bringing my boat. I'll let you know how it goes with the new CC.
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In the morning it was fine. No gas smell. After we got home in the late afternoon, it smelled. However it was greatly reduced. Now the smell is coming from the filler neck/cap area. Not sure if my "emissions" non-compliant OEM dual filler neck is leading to this or if it may be a bad gas cap.:meh:
 
I don’t have a solution to your problem but I can tell you I have had the rich exhaust smell for several years. I don’t have the SC or AUX tank but do live at the same elevation. It seems to be consistent and never goes away. Everything is stock except the minor tune up items. I have also always had the high tank pressure when opening the gas cap when filling up. I do not get the gas smell in the engine compartment though. Can’t help with the gas mileage change as it has always sucked and I quit checking years ago. That’s what the TDI is for.
This probably doesn’t do you any good but I haven’t posted forever so I thought I would throw this out there.
 
Brining this back from the dead. I am having the same issues. Very strong smell to the point that I have to leave my garage open for a while. Truck seems to be running great. High pressure when removing gas cap. Did the new charcoal canister fix the issue for you guys?
 
Charcoal canister is cheap to replace (look for the aftermarket part, think it's from a Chrysler?). IIRC like $20-$30. Just replace it and see if it fixes it or not, by this age it likely needs to be replaced anyway.
 
Fireguy said:
Brining this back from the dead. I am having the same issues. Very strong smell to the point that I have to leave my garage open for a while. Truck seems to be running great. High pressure when removing gas cap. Did the new charcoal canister fix the issue for you guys?
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In short, no. It was a temp fix, but the symptoms returned. This was with the pricy OEM charcoal canister. I've heard similar from those that have tried the Autozone...
 
Fireguy said:
I have a scangauge II.
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I would be interested in hearing what it reports.

I went out to Moab this summer in July with another friend. He had fuel evap problems while I didn't. His truck was running a little hot while mine maintained around 185-190.

He's had issues before which were real severe but he was running even hotter.

My theory was that the fuel was warming as it cycled back to the tank from the elevated engine temps which caused a pressure increase in the tank.

As reference we ran exactly the same fuel and my evap system is still the factory installed components.
 
I've been chasing down a similar issue. I finally got around to installing Rick's MAF tube and the newer sensor back in October. Within a week I seemed to get coincidental really strong fuel smells at start up and my overall miles per gallon dropped to ~8 mpg. I'm definitely not saying the two are related but just seemed to coincide within a closer period of time I was driving the truck frequently.

For me though, I am throwing the CEL codes for both knock sensors. I can reset the CEL, pull the leads off the battery for a few days, then it will go right back to this behavior.

I've read through several threads on the knock sensors and they all seem to have the same symptoms described here - a sudden onset of crappy mileage, strong fuel smell from exhaust, too rich condition. The problem seems to be that the knock sensors are rarely the real problem.

My engine has ~5K miles on it and pretty much anything you can think of has that same mileage. But the knock sensors were re-used....so don't tell me to go buy new knock sensors, just throwing this out there as fodder for thinking about different inputs to the ECU that can affect fueling.
 
I'm in the same ~8 mpg boat with Clownmidget since installing the MAF sleeve. 183K engine, good O2 sensors, plugs, wires, cap, air filter, FPR, engine wiring harness, cooling system, etc. 33" tires, stock gears. New charcoal canister fixed tank over pressurization. Crappy CA ethenol premium gas from BX, so brand unknown. Truck gets driven very little these days and I haven't given the poor mpg much thought, but this thread has my attention.

Wideband AFR shows shift to open loop (numbers in 9-10 range) when boost reaches 2-3 psi. With sleeve, I now see EGT drop 100 deg+ when ECU goes open loop , for example on a gradual climb. With stock or unsleeved LT MAF, EGT would reach 1600 and stay there on hills at 60-70 mph, which is worrisome to me. So, I think the truck is telling me the sleeve indeed improves the match of MAF to ECU, I just wish it didn't take 8 mpg to do it. Passes smog check easily, but even at low speeds off paved road, friends following me say they smell rich mixture, but I don't smell anything.

I plan to go to 4.88s, and hope that one of the benefits will be a bit better mileage due to less need for skinny pedal, given the slightly higher normal rpm range. Does that sound like a reasonable expectation? Any other thoughts?
Thanks, Mack
 
FYI I am getting the rich smell immediately upon start up when the engine is cold. It has been around 40 degrees lately here. You smell it right away. I am on my second tank of BG44 not sure if that has anything to do with it.
 
The MAF sensor is used as a base starting point at which time the ECU meters fuel based on the feed back of the O2 sensors. If you are using more fuel then the ECU is delivering it based on the O2 sensor not the MAF.

And if you are smelling raw fuel it would have to be a leak or it is being expelled out of the charcoal canister.

Smelling raw gas and a 8MPG drop looks like a leak to me.
 
I'm installing new O2 sensors and a new charcoal canister this week to see if I get any changes. That is certainly what I suspected given the behavior of the truck and was very surprised to read the knock sensor codes. I have the EGR system completely removed and using a resistor at the EGR temp sensor location and the O2 sensors are the same ones that were on the truck when it blew the engine so even though I knew I had a CEL, I would have not guessed it would be the knock sensors. I'm not getting any other codes either.
 
Update:
Pulled both knock sensors off the block to bench test them per the FSM and they both looked pristine on the portion that goes into the block and they both passed by having no continuity between pin and shell. Re-installed both of them and double checked wiring harness - which is of course new - so no surprises there.

Pulled both O2 sensors and installed new OEM ones. Front one had a bit of sooty black on it along the sides of the probe, but the end was clean and shiny. Rear one looked fine except all four wires had been repaired with splices about 2 inches from the sensor.

Re-set ECU and let it get up to operating temps and then followed FSM to check timing and it was dead-on 3-deg TDC in diagnostic mode. I went ahead and bumped it up to ~7-deg just because.

Let it run and revved it a bit but did not go out for a spin yet but so far no CEL. But it usually takes about a 10 mile drive for it to pop on. This happened this AM before I did all this work and it came on while doing 55 mph and letting off the gas going down a mild hill - same code = 1 & 2 knock sensors.

New charcoal canister (the Autozone VC120) goes in tomorrow. One thing I already noticed there is the one-way check valve on my vapor line going from the intake manifold to the canister was not working properly. Not so sure what roll that would play since EGR is all gone and VSV gook is all looped back on itself.

Thoughts? Advice?
 
Set off CEL after only 6 miles on the highway this morning.

Only one code:
0325 - No. 1 Knock Sensor
 
Pulled off the LandTank MAF and put wires back to stock on the connector and re-installed the OEM MAF.

Just drove 40 miles of mixed highway, flooring it, climbing hills @ 4K rpms, turned truck off and on 5 times. No CEL.
 
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