Goal Zero Lithium 1000 > Dual Batteries or >Single Group 31?

[Tierra Cruiser]

have you experienced a drop in the battery voltage when about 50% that will trigger the low voltage protection on the fridge? Apparently it happens with lithium batteries and there have been reviews of it not being a great option for fridges because of that.

No, not yet. In fairness, I haven't run the fridge on the battery long enough to reach 50%, yet. I'll report back if I encounter any issues in the near future.

 

[40Man]

Looks like REI and Backcountry both have 20% off regularly priced items. Goal Zero 1000 yet is $879.96 on Backcountry if anyone is looking to pick one up.

 

[molanginaeda]

Here is my GZ setup at Overland Expo east. For 3 days, all my electronic charged through GZ battery while ARB fridge run on rig battery. Make sure you add the mppt controller. It’s charged the lithium battery more faster.

 

[molanginaeda]

I also have this accessory from GZ to charge/topoff the rig lead acid battery via solar power.

 

[Itsky]

Here is my GZ setup at Overland Expo east. For 3 days, all my electronic charged through GZ battery while ARB fridge run on rig battery. Make sure you add the mppt controller. It’s charged the lithium battery more faster.

View attachment 1938366

View attachment 1938367

Nice setup! I might need to pick up the boulder 100 on 20% off at Rei. $200 for a simple solar setup seems like a good way to go.

 

[molanginaeda]

Prior to GZ setup, I actually think through about DYI solution using solar, mppt controller, inverter and lead acid battery. I ended up with GZ due to several reason.

1. All-in-one solution.
2. Lithium battery provide more power reserved.
3. Build-in 1500w pure sine wave Inverter. Need to power my blender for some frozen margaritas.
4. Portable. Can move to a different rig easily.

GZ solution is not perfect. There is some cons.

1. Proprietary GZ connector.
2. Low lifecycle - rated 500 charge only.
3. The promised user replaceable lithium battery is still not available.
4. Not the most efficient MPPT charger
5. Operating environment is limited. Can’t expose to extreme heat and cold.

 

[molanginaeda]

Nice setup! I might need to pick up the boulder 100 on 20% off at Rei. $200 for a simple solar setup seems like a good way to go.

@Itsky since you already own GZ Yeti , the best compatible solar panel is GZ Boulder Solar Panel. Other solar panel might not work. So beware if you try to use aftermarket solar panel. Make sure the solar panel output match.

The default GZ Yeti come with pulse wave modulation (PWM) Charging controller builtin. It is the least efficient controller as it take up to a day to topoff the Yeti Lithium battery using onshore power or solar power. You can add the optional MPPT module (on Yeti 1000 Lithium or higher). MPPT controller has better/higher charging efficiency hence speed up the battery charging as fast as 40% more. It’s a $100 module now. I swear I bought it for $80 last year.

 

[TailGator]

@Itsky since you already own GZ Yeti , the best compatible solar panel is GZ Boulder Solar Panel. Other solar panel might not work. So beware if you try to use aftermarket solar panel. Make sure the solar panel output match.

The default GZ Yeti come with pulse wave modulation (PWM) Charging controller builtin. It is the least efficient controller as it take up to a day to topoff the Yeti Lithium battery using onshore power or solar power. You can add the optional MPPT module (on Yeti 1000 Lithium or higher). MPPT controller has better/higher charging efficiency hence speed up the battery charging as fast as 40% more. It’s a $100 module now. I swear I bought it for $80 last year.

This is a good thread.

I have an ARB 50 and a GZ Lithium 400 that plugs into the AC outlet in the rear of my 2008 LC. I supplement with the PowerFilm 120 watt foldable solar "panel", which I think is better described as a solar "blanket". The PowerFilm connects directly to the GZ using a cable made by CaliforniaPC, the PowerFilm dealer I used. PowerFilm is awfully pricey, but has lots of practical benefits. Most importantly, it folds up to about the size of a medium Domino's pizza and weighs only around 5 pounds. Also, supposedly it will provide reasonable power in dappled/low light and doesn't require precise aiming. It's a recent acquisition, so I have only tested it in my driveway, but so far so good. I plan to lay it on the ground, or on the hood of my truck, depending on the shade situation.

One more point. The AC adapter that comes with the GZ is limited to 60 watts of output. Recently, I purchased the new lithium DC charging cable from GZ and it delivers 120 watts to the Yeti (i.e., it's twice as fast as AC) from a 12V DC outlet! Unfortunately, the two 12v DC outlets in the 2008 LC are both on the center console (i.e., in the front), and I don't like the idea of running a wire all the way from there, across the 2nd row seats, to the cargo area. As an experiment, I purchased a 10 amp AC-to-DC adapter cable on Amazon and voila. Now, using both the AC-to-DC cable and the GZ charging cable, I can use the AC outlet in the rear, and get 120 watts into the Yeti. I'm not 100% sure it's safe to double up the adapters, but I'm gonna keep a close eye on it for heat buildup etc...

I'm in search of any good ideas for organizing the setup. Right now, everything is just loose. The TrekBoxx idea is awesome, but is there a budget version? Also, does the TrekBoxx easily revert to a flat platform when you're not camping?

 

[molanginaeda]

This is a good thread.

I have an ARB 50 and a GZ Lithium 400 that plugs into the AC outlet in the rear of my 2008 LC. I supplement with the PowerFilm 120 watt foldable solar "panel", which I think is better described as a solar "blanket". The PowerFilm connects directly to the GZ using a cable made by CaliforniaPC, the PowerFilm dealer I used. PowerFilm is awfully pricey, but has lots of practical benefits. Most importantly, it folds up to about the size of a medium Domino's pizza and weighs only around 5 pounds. Also, supposedly it will provide reasonable power in dappled/low light and doesn't require precise aiming. It's a recent acquisition, so I have only tested it in my driveway, but so far so good. I plan to lay it on the ground, or on the hood of my truck, depending on the shade situation.

One more point. The AC adapter that comes with the GZ is limited to 60 watts of output. Recently, I purchased the new lithium DC charging cable from GZ and it delivers 120 watts to the Yeti (i.e., it's twice as fast as AC) from a 12V DC outlet! Unfortunately, the two 12v DC outlets in the 2008 LC are both on the center console (i.e., in the front), and I don't like the idea of running a wire all the way from there, across the 2nd row seats, to the cargo area. As an experiment, I purchased a 10 amp AC-to-DC adapter cable on Amazon and voila. Now, using both the AC-to-DC cable and the GZ charging cable, I can use the AC outlet in the rear, and get 120 watts into the Yeti. I'm not 100% sure it's safe to double up the adapters, but I'm gonna keep a close eye on it for heat buildup etc...

I'm in search of any good ideas for organizing the setup. Right now, everything is just loose. The TrekBoxx idea is awesome, but is there a budget version? Also, does the TrekBoxx easily revert to a flat platform when you're not camping?

Thanks @TailGator about Powerfilm foldable solar panel info. That's awesome to have alternative solar panel choices with GZ setup. I love to have a blanket style foldable solar panel. It's lighter and easier to store. But the price still high. I seen a few offering at Overland Expo East. i.e. overland solar. When I ask about GZ compatibility, the answer is not compatible.

 

[TailGator]

Thanks @TailGator about Powerfilm foldable solar panel info. That's awesome to have alternative solar panel choices with GZ setup. I love to have a blanket style foldable solar panel. It's lighter and easier to store. But the price still high. I seen a few offering at Overland Expo East. i.e. overland solar. When I ask about GZ compatibility, the answer is not compatible.

Yep. It's hard to find a definitive source of compatibility information. Based on my experience with the PowerFilm panel, I believe the Yeti 400 Lithium has a normal, PWM charge controller built in, so I would expect it to work with any solar panel. The only trick is getting a cable that has the GZ 8mm barrel connector.

 

[TeCKis300]

These portable standalone lithium batteries are such a game changer. I could justify one in so many ways. For car camping. For augmenting power to my travel trailer. For backyard or home use. As backup to every one of these.

Adding them to the vehicle is super easy too. Just drop it in...

Integration would be a matter of using an existing stock cig lighter, or adding a cig lighter in where one wants it (preferably with a fused larger gauge cable from the battery). And using the appropriate 12V car charger. Best not to use a 120V-12V as conversion wastes power.

Solar integration is the best part of this. Slap any generic panel on the roof/rack. They generally have an MC4 connector/pigtail. Run that down into the rear hatch corner. And with a MC4 to Anderson connector - bam, solar enabled house battery to run a fridge endlessly.

Yep. It's hard to find a definitive source of compatibility information. Based on my experience with the PowerFilm panel, I believe the Yeti 400 Lithium has a normal, PWM charge controller built in, so I would expect it to work with any solar panel. The only trick is getting a cable that has the GZ 8mm barrel connector.

I'm not sure if there's a readily available 8mm barrel connector adapter. Likely is. But there's this - GOAL ZEROMC4 to Anderson Power Pole Cable

 

[molanginaeda]

I found another foldable solar panel by off grid trek in Canada. Cheaper price than powerfilm. 120w for $800. Still a little too high for my budget.

Off Grid Trek Solar Panel

My understanding is some solar panel output is 24V. These will not be compatible with GZ Charger. Since the charger buildin, you want to avoid using Solar Panel output with 18V or higher. The other issue will be the connector. You need some sort of cable to convert the standard solar panel connector to GZ 8mm proprietary connector.

 

[TailGator]

I found another foldable solar panel by off grid trek in Canada. Cheaper price than powerfilm. 120w for $800. Still a little too high for my budget.

Off Grid Trek Solar Panel

My understanding is some solar panel output is 24V. These will not be compatible with GZ Charger. Since the charger buildin, you want to avoid using Solar Panel output with 18V or higher. The other issue will be the connector. You need some sort of cable to convert the standard solar panel connector to GZ 8mm proprietary connector.

Joe Gartner at CaliforniaPC made the GZ compatible cable for my PowerFilm panel. If you speak to him, perhaps he could make other types of cables as well. Highly recommend. Goal Zero - Cords and Cables

 

[tbisaacs]

I have one of the old GZ MC4 to 8mm cables but GZ stopped selling them to force people to use their proprietary panels. There are some after market ones.

 

[raincityrider]

@Itsky, you’re definitely asking the right questions. And getting a lot of answers depending on perspectives. It’s no wonder because as simple as a battery might seem, there’s complicated integration issues. Some fundamental issues that people are ignoring. I’ll give you the my interpretation as an avid camper/RV’er, and engineering judgement.

Firstly, I think it’s important to acknowledge some major drivers and constraints:

1) AGM is not compatible with the factory alternator/charging system (voltage too high). Nor is it compatible with underhood temps (compounding the voltage problem and prematurely “cooking” nice batts). If one is selecting AGM, it should be remotely located outside of the engine bay. Flooded lead acid batts should be used in the engine bay and when tied to the engine electrical system as that is what it’s designed to charge. Cheap, durable, and proven.

2) Who wants to “plug-in” a car regularly? I refuse to do this even for my RV. Wouldn’t it be nice if it maintained itself?

3) KISS – less cost, more reliability, ease of install

4) Redundancy for starter batt – game changer today is the lithium jump battery.

5) Maximize usable amp-hours

6) Weight – people often dismiss this. Many will at some understand after building up their rig to full weight the compromise to handling, efficiency, capability, durability, etc. It should always be considered.

If dual onboard batts is a must because of lots of built in onboard accessories, I would do this documented here - https://forum.ih8mud.com/threads/kiss-dual-battery-upgrade.1110226/#post-12070553

If one’s setup is more modular and can utilize a portable batt, that is absolutely the way I would go. Ease of setup. Ease and flexibility of use. More usable amp hours. As expensive as they are for even the premium Goal Zero brand, I’d say they’re actually cost competitive compared to a built-in dual battery system with all the wiring/chargers/relays/fuses/batts. Many include a nice built in inverter too.

Upgrade to a single group 31 deep-cycle flooded lead acid starter battery to maximize reserves for vehicle lighting, etc. Though I would first upgrade to LEDs as it’s always better to conserve than to upgrade reserves.

Buy a lithium jump starter battery as mitigation for starter battery depletion.

If you need the ability to extend your reserves, buy a matching Goal-Zero solar panel that can be moved around out from under shade.

I agree, I don't want to plug my truck in. And I don't want to buy a $300 battery that runs at 50% due to my charging system. Or that dies prematurely due to the location.

BUT, I cant find a group 31 flooded battery anywhere.

HELP!

 

[CJ3Flyer]

Am I wrong in that IF there was no refrigeration involved all of this would be dramatically simpler? I mean all phone charging, iPads, camera batteries etc is small compared with the fridge and could be addressed easily and inexpensively?

Why no propane fridges?

 

[raincityrider]

Am I wrong in that IF there was no refrigeration involved all of this would be dramatically simpler? I mean all phone charging, iPads, camera batteries etc is small compared with the fridge and could be addressed easily and inexpensively?

Why no propane fridges?

For me I want to set up a Solar system in the future and the sun doesn't make propane.

 

[DasKeyserSoze]

I absolutely LOVE this thread

 

[Itsky]

I absolutely LOVE this thread

This thread loves you too

 

[Itsky]

Goal Zero yeti was large this past couple weeks with all the power outages we are having in California. A few family members and friends are now considering them.