Goal Zero Lithium 1000 > Dual Batteries or >Single Group 31?

[Itsky]

Outstanding input all around!

Yes, I think I’ll add (maybe 100w?) of solar power shortly down the road, once I learn, test and understand the unit a bit.

@Cruiser17 - thanks for the information, I’m curious that it won’t charge off the LC inverter?

 

[tirewater]

I was in the same position as you a few years ago. I have an ARB 50q fridge that would last ~2 days on the car's battery before the low voltage shutoff on the fridge kicked in. Then I'd have to drive around a bit.

I ended up buying a Suaoki 400amp/hr portable battery. . It's a lithium battery. If you want a more recognizable name brand, then Anker has their Powerhouse. The next step up in price are the Goal Zeros.
https://www.amazon.com/Portable-Gen...CGX87G326PQ&psc=1&refRID=WG4MKS59CCGX87G326PQ

With their 60w solar panels (which seemed to have doubled in price since then):

https://www.amazon.com/SUAOKI-Porta...Y8ETP4RMHSN&psc=1&refRID=8K8Y05J3XY8ETP4RMHSN

Using the above, my ARB ran for seven days outside in 80+ degree days. The battery still had a couple of bars left at the end of the week. The solar panel doesn't maintain charge (when fridge is connected), but it extended the life of the battery beyond what we generally need.

My ARB uses 1-2 amp/hr of energy (inside house). This will vary depending on outside conditions and how low you set fridge. I used this as a rough guide to how long a battery would last - although the low voltage cut off will kick in way before a lead acid battery is depleted.

 

[TeCKis300]

I was in the same position as you a few years ago. I have an ARB 50q fridge that would last ~2 days on the car's battery before the low voltage shutoff on the fridge kicked in. Then I'd have to drive around a bit.

I ended up buying a Suaoki 400amp/hr portable battery. . It's a lithium battery. If you want a more recognizable name brand, then Anker has their Powerhouse. The next step up in price are the Goal Zeros.
https://www.amazon.com/Portable-Gen...CGX87G326PQ&psc=1&refRID=WG4MKS59CCGX87G326PQ

With their 60w solar panels (which seemed to have doubled in price since then):

https://www.amazon.com/SUAOKI-Porta...Y8ETP4RMHSN&psc=1&refRID=8K8Y05J3XY8ETP4RMHSN

Using the above, my ARB ran for seven days outside in 80+ degree days. The battery still had a couple of bars left at the end of the week. The solar panel doesn't maintain charge (when fridge is connected), but it extended the life of the battery beyond what we generally need.

My ARB uses 1-2 amp/hr of energy (inside house). This will vary depending on outside conditions and how low you set fridge. I used this as a rough guide to how long a battery would last - although the low voltage cut off will kick in way before a lead acid battery is depleted.

Nicely done!

RV'ers have been making the shift to solar for awhile, now that the prices are reasonable, and results undeniable. Deep battery reserves are a good thing, but only takes you so far, and is fairly heavy. Need to solve power input side of the equation too which is where solar steps in.

One of the awesome things about solar is that it's constantly maintaining and topping off the batteries. Lead acid batts, including AGMs, are happiest when stored in a charged state. Also, solar supports loads and keeps cycle depth lower which again is what the battery likes for longest life.

Can't recommend solar enough and is where my monies would go. Whether for an onboard battery, or portable battery.

I leave my RV always on, which has tons of electronics comparably. It sits at the side of my house without ever need to plug in or tender. 200W of solar on the rooftop keeps her happy, topped off, and always ready to go. Whether in storage or active camp use which I could go just about indefinitely (except multiple days of weather). I'd like to add a portable folding solar panel that I can tie into the RV battery when parked in shade, or to use on my LX when I go car camping.

 

[Itsky]

Just an update, Goal Zero released their 12v charging cable today, it’s $40. You have to call to order.

 

[steenh]

I've had the National Luna portable dual battery system for 6 years. I got it because with two trucks, I can easily move it back and forth. Not cheap, and maybe not worth it for what it actually is, but I've been really happy with it and it's cheaper than dual battery systems in two trucks. I do have a solar system I can use, but rarely do, to keep things topped off for long stops. Just have to wire each truck which is easy enough to do.

 

[KLF]

I just completed my dual battery system. I have an Odyssey group 31 in the starting (Slee) tray, and an X2 group 34/78 in a hacked Slee 2nd tray. I'm using the Blue Seas ML-ACR for isolator, switch on the dash, and I also put a National Luna dual monitor on the floor to the left of the driver's seat so I can see it every time I open the door.

(that switch was a PITA to get installed there)

Observations:

I am concerned about how low the charge level (according to the NL monitor) is showing on the 31 starting battery after the truck sits overnight, it has gone as low as 50% (especially as cold as it is here lately). But it has always easily started the engine.

The X2 aux battery is not currently in use (yet), but I will be adding accessories and multiple charging ports soon, so it never goes below about 90%. A fridge is planned eventually.

The ML-ACR is a nice unit, it makes a nice THUNK sound about 30 secs after starting the engine to tell me it's bridged the batteries together, then another THUNK a few seconds after I shut it off.

I am in the process (today and tomorrow) of permanently installing a NOCO 2-bank on-board charger behind the grille, on a custom bracket, on the driver's side. I plan to put the truck on shore power to top off the AGM batteries once a week.

I also have a NOCO GB70. I decided to add this to my daily carry, as I park right next to a student lot on campus, and I occasionally get asked to jump a dead battery in a car. I'm impressed with how this keeps a charge over several months.

 

[tbisaacs]

+1 on the GZ @Itsky. I ran an ARB50 on the non-lithium 400 for 11 days a few summers ago by supplementing with 100w solar. Great portable plug-and-play option. I now run a single AGM 27F with a renogy voyager solar controler. The 27F has 2x the usable amp hours as the yeti. If it goes sideways, I have a noco jumper.

 

[Markuson]

I just completed my dual battery system. I have an Odyssey group 31 in the starting (Slee) tray, and an X2 group 34/78 in a hacked Slee 2nd tray. I'm using the Blue Seas ML-ACR for isolator, switch on the dash, and I also put a National Luna dual monitor on the floor to the left of the driver's seat so I can see it every time I open the door.

View attachment 1894455

(that switch was a PITA to get installed there)

View attachment 1894456

Observations:

I am concerned about how low the charge level (according to the NL monitor) is showing on the 31 starting battery after the truck sits overnight, it has gone as low as 50% (especially as cold as it is here lately). But it has always easily started the engine.
.

Do you mean it indicates charging when not plugged in to an AC charger? If so, that likely means the weaker battery is trying to charge off of the other. Maybe they aren’t isolating?

Or maybe you meant something else by the still 50% charge comment. Can you clarify?

 

[Itsky]

I’m up in Tahoe right now skiing with the family, last night the power went out at the cabin.

The GZ was big to provide light, music and charge the groups devices.

 

[TeCKis300]

^Winning.

I just commented to your other thread as these continue to intrigue me.

Seriously, a portable battery solution just has so much utility on account of its portability.

 

[Markuson]

The GZ lithium 1000 is an interesting solution...but wow.
$1100.

My entire dual battery system cost less than that, including boost and control modules, monitor...and both pricy batteries.

 

[tbisaacs]

The GZ lithium 1000 is an interesting solution...but wow.
$1100.

My entire dual battery system cost less than that, including boost and control modules, monitor...and both pricy batteries.

GZ isn’t most cost effective by far but they win out on plug and play and portability. They are almost idiot proof. The 1000 gives you almost 100ah of sweet lithium goodness. But yea, look elsewhere for cheaper ah/$.

 

[Itsky]

The GZ lithium 1000 is an interesting solution...but wow.
$1100.

My entire dual battery system cost less than that, including boost and control modules, monitor...and both pricy batteries.

It’s $800 if you call GZ or can be found at Costco for the same price.

 

[Markuson]

GZ isn’t most cost effective by far but they win out on plug and play and portability. They are almost idiot proof. The 1000 gives you almost 100ah of sweet lithium goodness. But yea, look elsewhere for cheaper ah/$.

Ya, I do see the appeal of plug & play there.

Maybe a good backup for catastrophic damage to vehicle system.

 

[SnoViking]

I was/am in a similar situation and I ended up going with something like your option #1 but supplemented with solar. I originally ran a second combo deep/starter battery in the cargo area but on account of weight and cargo capacity stopped carrying it. At a minimum I would suggest 100% buying and carrying a lithium jump pack. They are silly cheap these days and besides the piece of mind it give me, I've used it 10+ times on random people in parking lots. I actually just use the chassis group 24 battery but I route all my accessories (and fridge) through my solar charge controller. I picked up one of the Victron solar charge controllers with Bluetooth (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B075NQQRPD/ref=oh_aui_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1) and then a folding 100w panel (Amazon.com : DOKIO 100 Watts 12 Volts Monocrystalline Foldable Solar Panel with Charge Controller : Garden & Outdoor). This combo keeps my weight down and my usage and control up. I run a 45l Indel B fridge and a few lights. The victron controller really helps you understand how many watts you're consuming and what your power needs are. Plus you can set alarms, cut-offs, and schedules. I have mine setup to shut the fridge off at a specifc voltage and then as soon as the sun comes up and starts hitting the panel it turns back on but not before the battery gets charged first. The current fridges (ARB included) are really well insulated. I also run a cheapo indoor/outdoor thermometer in my fridge to know what my temps and patterns are.

 

[Taco2Cruiser]

Speaking of GZ. Anyone want to buy my Yeti Lithium 400? $400, and I’ll ship it to the lower 48 for $20. Basically new condition.

 

[razzyrazz]

If anyone does go the solar generator route and you have any electrical knowledge at all, build your own. Cheaper and better performing than a Yeti with ability to customize to your use. Lots of instructions and videos online.

 

[Tierra Cruiser]

FWIW, I jumped on a GZ Yeti 1000 (through Costco, $800) with the intent to power my NL fridge (60L twin) via the 12V extension I purchased through Equipt1.

I have yet to test the setup for an extended time out in the field, but I did get to use it on a day trip over the weekend. It performed flawlessly (certainly helps that the NL fridge is super efficient, drawing about 27 watts while the compressor was running). The kids enjoyed their ice cream, and even charged a couple of phones and an ipad via the usb outlets on the Yeti 1000 while out there.

We have a couple of upcoming weekend camping trips within the next two months, so looking forward to seeing how the battery performs over a span of about 3-4 days. I'll likely be adding a GZ Boulder 100 suitcase to supplement with solar power.

The only other "testing" I've done with the battery thus far was connecting the NL fridge in my garage over the course of a weekend. It got down to about 55% battery left in the bank after being connected between Friday evening and Monday morning. I realize that varying conditions out in the field will likely increase the power draw, but thought it'd be worth mentioning.

On a different note, the Trekboxx system is perfect for this setup! The shelf above the fridge (where the battery rests) will likely become a dedicated area for charging devices, equipment, etc.

 

[bemerritt]

have you experienced a drop in the battery voltage when about 50% that will trigger the low voltage protection on the fridge? Apparently it happens with lithium batteries and there have been reviews of it not being a great option for fridges because of that.

 

[tbisaacs]

have you experienced a drop in the battery voltage when about 50% that will trigger the low voltage protection on the fridge? Apparently it happens with lithium batteries and there have been reviews of it not being a great option for fridges because of that.

I noticed that GZ released a specific cable for voltage sensitive applications like 12v fridges:

Yeti Lithium 12V Regulated Cable | Goal Zero

Used to regulate the HPP output of a Goal Zero Yeti Lithium to a consistent voltage, improving compatibility with 12V-powered devices. Not for use with lead-acid Yetis.

www.goalzero.com