Glucosamine treatment for an old warrior

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handcannon said:
Put a spacer between the Scout box and the frame, maybe 1/2 to 3/4". This will give more clearance to the steering shaft, and maybe enough room for the plug wires. Will involve increasing the length of the relay rod though.

Don
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Can't get enough extra space there to make it worth the trouble. The whole box/shock/steering arm neighborhood is very tight. The plug wire routing isn't a show stopper. Under or over can be worked out.
 
Cdaniel said:
Can't get enough extra space there to make it worth the trouble. The whole box/shock/steering arm neighborhood is very tight.t.
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I agree. That is why I plan to use the ford shock tower. I am setting the Scout box up with a 3/4" plate between the box and the frame. But, you are way ahead of me. Due to no money (on the job injury) my 40 is just setting there rusting away.

Don
 
Cdaniel said:
Do you happen to have a source for the layout of all the clips and shields for that? Not all out vette style, just regular truck/car. I know where to get all the parts, but don’t how many of each.
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How about a thread with pics of mine? Starting at 22...
https://forum.ih8mud.com/40-55-series-tech/448066-sbc-swap-manual-steering-2.html

This was stock for Sept 16, 1969.:D

2 brackets w/ 4 wires each at the back of the head, 2 brackets to keep 2 wires each to the edge of the oil pan, 2 brackets w/ 2 wires each under the front cylinders (or run under motor mounts... Going to suck when it's time to change wires)

But that's what wire cutters are for:D
 
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handcannon said:
I agree. That is why I plan to use the ford shock tower. I am setting the Scout box up with a 3/4" plate between the box and the frame. But, you are way ahead of me. Due to no money (on the job injury) my 40 is just setting there rusting away.

Don
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I started with the Ford tower, but just could not get it to be happy in there. I think the SOA along with the 4x4 labs arms had me shifting the box too much in the way.

Sorry to hear you have a neglected beast due to injuries. That sucks:frown:
 
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A few tinkering steps this week.

1st I think I have the Lokar dip stick bracket massaged enough to get a hand on it. Seems a little tight going around the bend though. Will have to see if the oil gets wiped off on the way out....


Next. After going back and forth on what to do about plug wires, I'm leaning real hard to make use of what I spent money on already. Dug up some old valve cover nut bling parts that were on the engine that came with this rig. These goofy stand off gizmos had a hex bit wing nut to tighten them. So I cut off the hex socket, put some flats on them and tapped a hole in the end. Some simple green brought the sparkle back.:hillbilly:


A little bending of the wire bracket to clear the steering shaft, maybe a little more. With a couple of wires laid in place it's looking doable.........
dipstick.webp
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Another increment or 3. Home brew shock hoops installed. Sure hope I never need to undo these after the body work is on;p


So I bought the clear for the serpentine brackets. Thought I would clean them up a little more with the mag wheel cleaner, like I did on the intake. Bad idea:rolleyes: Completely different result like the discoloration that happens with oven cleaner. So rather than spend another hour in the blast cabinet at work undoing that; a couple of coats of cast blast works for me.

I also learned that I can't install the PS pump with the steering shaft in the way. :meh:
shocks in.webp
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PS hoses are cut, crimped and installed. Had to get creative to redirect the low pressure from the tank. I suppose there is a tank out there somewhere with a different barb. Maybe someday.

Next, I had some discrepancies with the old vs new clutch stuff....
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Got the PS pulley modified to clear the nose of the pump on the backside. Now the grooves can align to the other pulleys :wrench:
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Some more parts going back to where they belong. Took a few trys at finding the fan clutch new to replace the one I mocked up. The donor fan app (Merc) wouldn't work because the NAPA one I got didn't have slots on the pump side. Ended up drilling the fan mounting holes out to fit the GM version.

All in with the cooling system and mounts. Sure don't look forward to doing any dis assembly in the future without the benefit of the body work out of the way.
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Cliff, Been reading your thread on breaks at work for a while, couldn't do it in a hour! I have my '73 all scattered about, your thread really helped me make some decisions on how I want to put it back together! Awsome pictures and some great humor too! I'm sure she will be sweet when you get her done and glad you took the time to do it right!
 
Mid TN said:
Cliff, Been reading your thread on breaks at work for a while, couldn't do it in a hour! I have my '73 all scattered about, your thread really helped me make some decisions on how I want to put it back together! Awsome pictures and some great humor too! I'm sure she will be sweet when you get her done and glad you took the time to do it right!
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I'm happy to hear I've made someones workday more bearable:D I sure hope what I've done is right. A few decisions made along the way could bite me. Time will tell.

Got to keep your humor when the steps start going sideways and backward. Take lots of pics of your 73 process too. The Mud picture collection is one of the best Cruiser resources around. :beer:
 
A load of garage project left overs, mostly Cruiser stuff on the way to the scrap yard.

My recycle pay day? $11.20! Whoo Hoo! :rolleyes:
junk.webp
 
Clutch work:
So the previous pressure plate I was running came from Centerforce, and was designed for the 350 to Toyota trans conversion. The new one is just a regular GM application. Just a bit different on the throw of the fork. I had no free play at all with the slave adjustment bottomed out. So......Off with it's head!:eek:

After a few passes in the mill drill removing about .10, got plenty of play to play with now.

Final install with a new custom made hose and improved firewall bracket. Plus my add on spring to overcome the shift for boot pushing the fork. I still am baffled with the AA slave mounting bracket that forces you to mount the cylinder with the bleeder screw down. :rolleyes:
At least it gravity bleeds easy enough.
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Something I let slip the failing feeble mind. A new front brake to axle hydraulic connection. Shoulda worked this one out a while back.

With a new custom flex line to sneak past the steering link. 1st pic is sizing up the distance at extreme droop.

Then the final install with a custom hard line to the hose.
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