Glucosamine treatment for an old warrior

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I think I may add an entry to Wikipedia under the definition of frustrating with nothing more than this picture......:bang:

What a piece of work the Toyota T-case parking brake is


DONE!
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Back at it after a brief pause to take the sand toys out for one last run of the season :D Only broke one minor (relatively) part on the buggy. Yay! No major sand projects over the summer! :bounce:

So I finally got off of the fence and finished the plug wires up. Gave the old carb a bath a parked it on top for the break in duties. EFI will replace that eventually. Bypassed the heater and brake booster for break in too. The fewer possible problems the better.

Spent a whole bunch of money for fluids of every kind to fill all of this dry new stuff. :eek:
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Had another side step to deal with. Seems my original mock up of front drive line angles was in error. The angle at the pinion was beyond the capability of the stock FJ40 flanges at full droop. Discovered this while re checking before ordering a new shaft fortunately. My somewhat controversial decision to not cut and turn is biting me a little now. The solution was to go to mini truck parts at the pinion. A little lighter duty for the hard core types, but I'm okay with it. I've been running an all Spicer 1310 CV shaft in the back for a real long time with no problems. And I guess if I have a weak link, an easy to get to one is good.

The mini truck flange required a new set of holes to be drilled on my new front flange. Called in some of my barter account from the neighbor with a mill :D and handled it. I have to do some mods to the skid plate too.
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Always a deep breath of relief when a new engine burps to life and works. Only a couple of minor glitches. Like having the dist in 180 off :doh: And a loose rad cap spewing after the 1st shut down.:o

The video is after the initial cam run in. Nothing like making friends with open exhaust for 30 minutes at 2000 rpm :hillbilly: Got it settled down to idle and a few timing and carb tweaks later, not bad. Considering that carb has been gathering dust for nearly 3 years. The tired old Optima barely made the grade too.

Much more to go though......
 
Cdaniel said:
Always a deep breath of relief when a new engine burps to life and works. Only a couple of minor glitches. Like having the dist in 180 off :doh: And a loose rad cap spewing after the 1st shut down.:o

The video is after the initial cam run in. Nothing like making friends with open exhaust for 30 minutes at 2000 rpm :hillbilly: Got it settled down to idle and a few timing and carb tweaks later, not bad. Considering that carb has been gathering dust for nearly 3 years. The tired old Optima barely made the grade too.

Much more to go though......
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Excelent, glad to see it coming along. Reminds me of the day I started my truck up at 7 am, with no exhaust, to drive it to the mufler shop to have the exhaust built. Aftterwards, I found out that the Alternator berring was shot... just couldn't hear it howling. Fortunately, I didn't run into any cops in the snow storm on the way.:D
 
I'm always scared of what forgotton loose bolt might fly off during the cacaphony of an open exhaust startup. Fortunately all the rotating accessories are new , save the boneyard A/C compressor. Which I was keeping an eye on.
 
Bad bolt?

A curious find while rolling about underneath after the engine break in. A head of a very new looking bolt. :confused:

Which appears to have bailed out from the exhaust manifold bolt holding the dipstick bracket. :hhmm:

Not over torqued I can testify. Faulty steel that couldn't handle the heat?
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cruiserjunkie said:
Sorry to see that cliff hopefully it comes out easy
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Not a big deal really. Further investigation revealed that all 4 bolts holding the center of the manifolds are broken at the head. I guess the extra high exhaust temps during break in were more than they could handle. The timing was a little off and got the y-pipe glowing, but yikes I didn't think it was that bad:eek: I got 3 out with pliers and had to drill one for an easy out.
 
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Took a little time out to scour the tub area for the fuel tank. A bit of surface rust to treat and we're good. So thankful for a nice AZ rig without the rust demons I see all over Ih8mud.

The gladiators on this forum that battle the evil corrosion are heroes. Amazing what some people are willing to salvage:beer:
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Got the rework to the cross member figured out to allow for the new front drive shaft position. 1st pic circles the tube that had to go.
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Am I seeing a carrier bearing? So you have a two piece FRONT driveshaft? I thought I read something about a double cardin (CV) back in the thread a ways, but though it somehow bolted to the output flange like Chev etc. Is it with the Toy TC there isn't enough meat to handle the changed weight and load angle of the bigger joint?


Very Interesting...


Also, I'm seeing that a cut and turn is almost an imperative on a SOA. There's no way to get the steering geometry correct, in combination with a decent pinion angle, without it. I'm hunting up a spare housing to do the CnT on, and then hang my good gear (and new parts) on it.
 
lefty b said:
Am I seeing a carrier bearing? So you have a two piece FRONT driveshaft? I thought I read something about a double cardin (CV) back in the thread a ways, but though it somehow bolted to the output flange like Chev etc. Is it with the Toy TC there isn't enough meat to handle the changed weight and load angle of the bigger joint?


Very Interesting...


Also, I'm seeing that a cut and turn is almost an imperative on a SOA. There's no way to get the steering geometry correct, in combination with a decent pinion angle, without it. I'm hunting up a spare housing to do the CnT on, and then hang my good gear (and new parts) on it.
Click to expand...

Yes. 2 piece front drive shaft supported by a carrier bearing. The design keeps the drive shaft tube higher in the chassis and somewhat protected by the front springs. The SOA took a lot of that protection away, but it still helps. I can't take credit for the idea. It's something lcwizard came up with for me when he originally fabbed the trans/transfer support many moons ago.

Not sure what you mean by the Toyota T-case not having strength to run a CV. I have had one on the rear shaft for many miles. No problem. Using one on the front would be the right thing to do if you cut and turn the pinion toward the case.

I didn't do the C&T with my SOA in front. Mostly because I didn't see it being a must as the rig has been running the pinion in this attitude forever. And my style of wheeling didn't find that a problem. The resulting lift compared to my lift before is no different. I do seem to have more droop now, but will have to limit that anyhow due the the hi steer and Scout box setup. Again not a big concern to me. My original mockups had an error that put the pinion u-joint in a bind and forced a change there. That could probably be a non issue once I limit the travel though.

Some people will think I'm an idiot for not doing the C&T. Maybe, maybe not, we'll see. :meh:
 
I went back after posting and found that your CV was in the rear. And that makes sense. What I meant by the TC not being strong enough is that the front output housing on a 40 is a pretty long thing. On say, most NP205s, the front housing is bigger and shorter. Sticking a CV on the front end of a 40 TC could be a bit on the heavy side, and the length of the joint could add stresses that a single u-joint doesn't. The rear is really better set up for it with the iron bearing housing. And even with the e-brake, it's shorter by at about a third. So, the long and short of it is that my first thought was that the carrier bearing was there to take the added weight and stress of a CV joint off the TC. Which I don't think is a bad idea.

As for the cut and turn, I thought I detected a note of remorse in an earlier post for not having done it. I'll go back and check myself on that too. And I think we've all read plenty of opinions expressed either way, but, with such an extensive rework of your rig, it struck me as odd that you chose not to do it. And in the case of cut and turn, it's not really not so much about the "wheeling", but the "driving".

I'm not trying to pick your rig apart. I applaud you on your many dedicated hours, and fantastic work. A few things piqued my interest, and I thought I'd ask the questions. We all make some fundamentally different choices in the "recipe" that makes up our rides, and this is just a classic example. I'm sure plenty of eyes would roll if my rig was ever critiqued, and hopefully some day it will. :beer:
 
No worries lefty. Just explaining my reasoning. No remorse really. One of my major considerations for not undertaking the C&T is not having the resources to do it properly. IMHO the precision from side to side on the knuckle realignment isn't to be taken lighty.Not something to try without a serious jig and measuring tools. Buying a modified axle is an option, but every set up has it's own particulars that need to be considered.

If I feel it's needed in the future then I would take the time and money to set up fixtures and tools to get it right. Right now I got way too much other junk to still get funded an get this thing out ouf the garage :D
 
Preparing for another major rehab phase, undoing the PO (and some of my own) wiring spaghetti :rolleyes:......


Also getting the tank ready to reinstall, treating the surface rust...
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Mundane progress pics:

Got the rattle can top coat on the treated tank rust.


Found some runner to replace the rotten old tank pads. And a big ol rubber washer to seal off the drain opening. Still wishing I could locate the right rubber plug for that though.....
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