Glucosamine treatment for an old warrior

[Cdaniel]

Finally back at it a little this weekend.
I managed to collect a pair of large pattern knuckles w/lower caps that will work. Got a nice deal from a Colorado guy over on pirate4x4. Been trying to collect all the nuts, washers and cones. Been waiting for 2 nuts and 6 washers on back order from a local OEM dealer. And as it turns out, I discovered today that the nuts and washers I have are the wrong size.

Oh well, I was still able to mock stuff up with old junk hardware from the bin.

The knuckles and caps were a little burred up from previous less than elegant removal using non recommend tools See before and after pics below of one of the caps. A little light work with a dremel smoothed out all the doinks, dings and burrs from chisels and screwdrivers on machined surfaces.

Got it all on to start looking at where the steering box will end up

 

[Cdaniel]

New problem.
Seems that these ultra beefy GM TRE's are going so cause some re thinking in the steering box location and/or bump stop placement.

That pretty much halted forward progress today. That and the fact that I've managed to cleverly hide my bump stops and extender brackets from myself Must have searched everywhere several times for an hour. No luck.

 

[Cdaniel]

Large stud hardware OEM p/ns

For the record for anyone looking for the Toyota numbers for large stud hardware. Don't go with 1980 FJ40, the dealer OEM info is wrong.

Here's what was finally right from a 1981 FJ60 application.

94531-01200 "wave" washer
90201-12019 "plate" washer
94115-71200 nut
42323-60020 cone

 

[Cdaniel]

Some more mock up and simulation. Moving the box back to get the TRE nut past the next frame bolt put the steering box housing a little too close to an engine drive belt for comfort. So the answer is move a little forward to clear the belt, bump stop the up travel to prevent collision with the TRE.

Now to the other side. Looks like limit straps will be in order too. Full droop on the passenger side has the drag ling into the spring.

Hadn't planned on all this extra stuff, but oh well.

 

[Cdaniel]

After many many measurements, checks and evaluations:
Final weld on the spring perches.

In other garage news: Got new glass in the sand blaster finally.
And I still can't find them sneaky bump stops.

 

[Cdaniel]

Still chipping away. Got some holes for the PS box drilled and had it mocked up to verify I got them right. Next will be at least plating over since some holes landed too close to existing ones. Will probably sleeve the holes also. We'll see what sort of tubing I can come up with to fit a 7/16 bolt.
Pics:
1st drill after transfer punching from the box.

Cheesy drill alignment tool did a little better job than my eyeballs to get square holes to the other side.

Final size on the outside

 

[Cdaniel]

Final size inside and box bolted to frame temporarily

 

[subzali]

I used 3/8" sch. 80 pipe nipples and bored them out to size for my frame sleeves. You might check with Poser, I think he sells sleeves for Saginaw box installs.

 

[Cdaniel]

I used 3/8" sch. 80 pipe nipples and bored them out to size for my frame sleeves. You might check with Poser, I think he sells sleeves for Saginaw box installs.

Thanks for the pipe idea, I'll look into that. I did pick up a piece of DOM today but the OD is a bit big for the hole near the top an would need to be turned down.

So what type of pipe did you get? It wasn't gas pipe or galvanized was it?

 

[subzali]

It was just plain ol' steel threaded pipe nipples - I got 2 8" long nipples. Call the plumbing/industrial supply houses in your area and ask for it. It will probably be ASTM A53 pipe, black, threaded ends. I got mine from a place called Kelly Supply here in Denver, I'm sure there are places like it where you live.

From my p/s thread:
Rising Sun Member Forums - View Single Post - Brahma's Saginaw/FJ60 Power Steering Conversion

Here's a link to Kelly Supply:
KSCdirect.com: Industrial, Plumbing & Electrical MRO

A local hardware store or plumbing store might have some in stock too. The key is to figure out what OD/ID combo you need:

3/8" pipe always has 0.674" OD
There are 4 wall thicknesses for 3/8" pipe:
0.065" (Sch 10)
0.073" (Sch 30)
0.091" (Sch 40 - STD)
0.126" (Sch 80 - XS)

1/2" pipe always has 0.840" OD
There are a few more wall thicknesses available for 1/2" pipe:
0.065" (Sch 5)
0.083" (Sch 10)
0.095" (Sch 30)
0.109" (Sch 40 - STD)
0.147" (Sch 80 - XS)
0.188" (Sch 160)
0.294" (XXS)

 

[zebrabeefj40]

I didn't see the radiator dropped in while fitting the steering box. I found that steering box needed a spacer plate between the frame and the box to help clear the rad. You might wanna drop the rad support on if you haven't already to check clearances...

Nice work so far!



Nick

 

[Cdaniel]

I didn't see the radiator dropped in while fitting the steering box. I found that steering box needed a spacer plate between the frame and the box to help clear the rad. You might wanna drop the rad support on if you haven't already to check clearances...

Nice work so far!



Nick

Radiator is non stock shouldn't be an issue.
I was noodling on radiator stuff way back on page 5 of this thread some time ago.
I'll actually have more clearance with this vs. my original Saginaw out front setup.

Thanks for the sanity check though.

 

[Cdaniel]

Good data!
I took a look at the ASTM A53 offerings from McMaster Carr this morning, definitely the right material.
I'm pretty sure most of the stuff commonly on hand at the local hardware store is that "black iron" pipe for gas service. I don't think it welds too good, not sure. At any rate the piece of DOM I picked up at .75OD is only slightly larger OD than 3/8" pipe. A little turn down is probably necessary either way. We'll see when I get my next garage pass.

It was just plain ol' steel threaded pipe nipples - I got 2 8" long nipples. Call the plumbing/industrial supply houses in your area and ask for it. It will probably be ASTM A53 pipe, black, threaded ends. I got mine from a place called Kelly Supply here in Denver, I'm sure there are places like it where you live.

From my p/s thread:
Rising Sun Member Forums - View Single Post - Brahma's Saginaw/FJ60 Power Steering Conversion

Here's a link to Kelly Supply:
KSCdirect.com: Industrial, Plumbing & Electrical MRO

A local hardware store or plumbing store might have some in stock too. The key is to figure out what OD/ID combo you need:

3/8" pipe always has 0.674" OD
There are 4 wall thicknesses for 3/8" pipe:
0.065" (Sch 10)
0.073" (Sch 30)
0.091" (Sch 40 - STD)
0.126" (Sch 80 - XS)

1/2" pipe always has 0.840" OD
There are a few more wall thicknesses available for 1/2" pipe:
0.065" (Sch 5)
0.083" (Sch 10)
0.095" (Sch 30)
0.109" (Sch 40 - STD)
0.147" (Sch 80 - XS)
0.188" (Sch 160)
0.294" (XXS)

 

[Cdaniel]

Started in making plates and sleeves and stopped for a little brain work. I decided to wait and order some sch 80 3/8 pipe so I can get a nice close fit to the bolts rather than the looser fitting DOM piece I found or the sch 40 3/8 pipe offerings at the local hardwares.

Now I'm pondering which is better"
Sleeve the frame, then plate over it?
Or
Or plate the frame and then add the sleeves welded flush to the outside of the plates?

 

[Cdaniel]

Waiting for material to finish the PS mount doesn't mean there aint nothing to do. So I moved on to the steering shaft now that the box is at least located. got a Borgeson universal for the box end and a collapsible shaft. Had to make an adapter to mate to the old spicer universal at the column end.
Pics:
Shaft cut to length and adapter piece.
Welded.
Installed, to be painted later.

 

[pb4ugo]

Started in making plates and sleeves and stopped for a little brain work. I decided to wait and order some sch 80 3/8 pipe so I can get a nice close fit to the bolts rather than the looser fitting DOM piece I found or the sch 40 3/8 pipe offerings at the local hardwares.

Now I'm pondering which is better"
Sleeve the frame, then plate over it?
Or
Or plate the frame and then add the sleeves welded flush to the outside of the plates?

I did the latter & used 3/8 black pipe from the hardware store. Cut & tappered the ends for welding & ground flush, for the outside of the frame . The pipe just needs to be held in place. The pipe is more for preventing the frame from crushing. I think the holes I drilled on the inside of the frame were the diameter of the bolts, not the OD of the pipe.

Having already drilled the holes for the box in the frame, might be more difficult to locate the holes in the scab plate.

 

[subzali]

Started in making plates and sleeves and stopped for a little brain work. I decided to wait and order some sch 80 3/8 pipe so I can get a nice close fit to the bolts rather than the looser fitting DOM piece I found or the sch 40 3/8 pipe offerings at the local hardwares.

Now I'm pondering which is better"
Sleeve the frame, then plate over it?
Or
Or plate the frame and then add the sleeves welded flush to the outside of the plates?

I had the same dilemma. I think I went #2 route.

 

[Cdaniel]

2 votes for what I was thinking also.

Adding holes to plates should be no big deal. Weld on a plate, transfer punch from the other side, drill and repeat on the other side. That was my plan anyhow.

 

[Cdaniel]

I think I found a solution for an extra 1/4" clearance where the zerk is on the TRE. Every little bit counts

https://www.napaonline.com/Catalog/CatalogItemDetail.aspx?A=PUJ621_0283369783&An=0

 

[Cdaniel]

Labor Day labors

Finally another brief garage moment between being Dad, Son, high school hockey team videographer, and part time musician.

Got the power steering mount all in place after much drilling and drilling and drilling in steps up to the size for the bolt sleeves to fit.

Thanks subzali for the sch 80 pipe tip. Got a piece from Mcmaster Carr and it worked out great. Hind sight would have had me moving the holes a little left on the plates after seeing the edge distance after I opened them up for sleeves.

Still trying to weld straight lines. I'm leaving the final weld inside until I have the engine out of the way again.

For you pic lovers:
The following pics show the hole transfer and drilling process from side to side